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tmorriss

1987 312-8 will not start, no voltage at volt meter or test lights

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tmorriss

I have this 1987 312-8.  I had a problem where I had to turn the key multiple times to get the starter to turn the motor. Suspected the solenoid. Tested with a meter, I had no voltage getting across it when it wouldn't kick the starter.  I had good voltage at the volt meter and the panel of 'test lights' also worked when you pushed the button in. (always)

 

So I bought the solenoid and a new battery (as I knew the battery was dying also).  Put the new battery in first. IT did the same thing , which I expected, and after about 10-15 turns of the key, it finally drove the starter and fired up.   Meter read voltage and test lights all worked.

 

Then  I disconnected the battery and put the new solenoid in. Now I have absolutely nothing.

I have 12+ volts to the battery side of the solenoid and nothing on the starter side. When I started checking things I realized that I also don't have anything reading on the

volt meter now when I turn the key to run.

Also, the test lights no longer work at all when I push the button in.  And this ALL worked before I changed the solenoid.

 

I checked all the connections I touched and even took the key switch out and checked it with a meter at the OFF, RUN and START positions and I have continuity to the poles I should have

at each position based on the wiring diagram.

I also checked the two fuses I could find (one on the start circuit and one on the rectifier) and they are also ok.

 

i was thinking maybe the solenoid was bad, but I am positive that even with the old solenoid, I always had a good reading on the volt meter when I turned the key to RUN, and the test lights worked also.

So just for grins I put the old solenoid back in and  it didn't change a thing (no voltage at meter, no test lights etc)

 

I tried to see if I could have possibly disturbed a wire in the area of the solenoid, but there really aren't any.

And I thought maybe I disturbed something when I took the key switch out (even though that was after I had this new issue), but the only thing close to the key switch is a switch that is I think for the PTO (and I'm not sure that would prevent me from seeing a reading on the volt meter anyway.?)

 

 

I'm  totally stumped here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thx in advance

 

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tmorriss

Ya know.... I have been reading more posts on this forum, specifically the ones by '953 nut'  Instructional videos ....   on how the wiring system works.

I am wondering if I have done something really stupid here in my haste and wired the solenoid wrong.

 

After reading the above posts by '953 nut'  and looking again at the wiring diagram, I think I have the small wire with the big  ring connector on the starter side of the solenoid and it looks like it should go on the battery side.

 

Am i right on this?  I think this is the wire that is supposed to send voltage back to the switch so that it can then drive the solenoid thorough the small wire with the spade connector at the base of the solenoid.

 

Do I have this right?

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Ed Kennell

Yes, the wire with the large ring goes on the battery side of the solenoid and sends power to the ignition switch B lug.

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gwest_ca

Good job on figuring it out.

You will like these diagrams.

Garry

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953 nut

:WRS:

:handgestures-thumbupright:            Good job of diagnosing the problem and asking the right questions.   Glad the drawings were helpful.

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tmorriss

Hi everyone.  thank you very much.  That is exactly what it was. I didn't pay attention when I took the old one off :)

Special thanks to 953 Nut. Those drawings were the key. Wish I'd of found them two days earlier  :)

Thx again

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frecato

tmorriss - I was just going to post the exact same issue I am having with my 310-8.  Oil light has power on the dash, all safety switches are closed but when I turn the key I get one click and then nothing.  I have to keep turning the key until the starter finally kicks over.  Seems like the longer it sits the more times I have to turn the key until the starter kicks over and sometime it starts on the first turn.  I cleaned the ground and figure it is the starter solenoid like your scenario, but wanted to see if you have any other suggestions what it could be before I replace the starter solenoid.  Based on your diagnostics your skills far exceed mine!

 

Two other quick questions for you if you don't mind, did you use an OEM Toro part or a generic one and does the solenoid just pull off once you remove the two bolts, mine seems stuck to the panel.

 

Thanks for your help.

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953 nut
9 hours ago, frecato said:

I cleaned the ground

:WRS:

Have you taken the battery to a parts store to have it load tested? There are several electrical connections between the battery and the starter. If one or more (including all grounds) has corrosion it creates a problem.

1584867411_1electrical.jpg.9bfb4703add2c6b7146a8724ec1972f8.jpg

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frecato

I haven't had the battery load tested, but it does the same thing with a jumper pack.  I will go through all the connections to make sure they are all cleaned and tighten, but I suspect the solenoid is the ultimate culprit.  Do you know if I need an OEM part or if the ones off the shelf at Walmart would be fine.  Thanks for the help.

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Lee1977
Posted (edited)

Rust around the screws and on the dash plate can be the problem on a 312.  I have had that on my 312 with the switch not being ground because of poor grounding ofthe dash panel.

Edited by Lee1977
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ohiofarmer

If I could make a suggestion, it would simply be to put Mr. 953's excellent wiring diagrams at the top of the page as a sticky.   Just because some guys like me do not find it right away.  i realize that stickies can clutter the site a bit, so it might be a bit of a trade-off.  Those diagrams are simply outstanding.

 

 Right now, I am re-wiring a po's work---which consisted of wires run everywhere and a seperately wired coil through a Chinese push-pull light switch.. The original switch has the wires all cut off at three inches from the service plug.:sad-pacing:  [at the rear of the switch]

Edited by ohiofarmer
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