K321: OUCH.

[Mudrig150 331]

A couple years early for a beer. Not even legal age yet, but sure. Unless you mean a root beer, then sure! 

[Pullstart 66,829]

These guys know what they’re talking about.  It’s good to listen... otherwise it’ll be torn down again soon.  Shoved and assume and I think are not accuracy points in any engine rebuild.  We’ve most all been there, trying to do a build on the cheap at some point or another.  Sometimes taking the time to measure key points are worth every penny spent on quality tools or having a machine shop check it for you.

[squonk 43,843]

Something tells me that this engine is going to end up with either the head on the ceiling or the crank on the floor. 

[Mudrig150 331]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Something tells me that this engine is going to end up with either the head on the ceiling or the crank on the floor. 

Or both. Never rebuilt a motor before, so we have literally 0 of the proper tools to do it.

[953 nut 60,074]

8 hours ago, Mudrig150 said:

A couple years early for a beer. Not even legal age yet, but sure. Unless you mean a root beer, then sure! 

Young and eager to learn!    That is a good combination.   If you have a Vocational school or Community Collage with engine rebuild classes you will have access to the proper tools and people who can help you learn how to do it correctly. 

[Mudrig150 331]

So, any tricks to remove the muffler elbow? It is fully intact, but I don't wanna have another 1450 block on my hands.

(Muffler elbow snapped off in the port trying to remove it, tried cutting it out but it's stuck in there good)

Edited May 8, 2019 by Mudrig150

[Mudrig150 331]

19 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Young and eager to learn!    That is a good combination.   If you have a Vocational school or Community Collage with engine rebuild classes you will have access to the proper tools and people who can help you learn how to do it correctly. 

Every school around me is just Diesel tech or car tech. No rebuilding, just basic maintenance.

[richmondred01 2,307]

Getting that out will make getting flywheel off look easy.

what I recommend is cutting it flush with the block.

There are two holes used to mount a flange style muffler. Using a tap clean the threads on two mounting holes and use a flange style muffler rather then the screw in muffler.

 

Edited May 8, 2019 by richmondred01

[Mudrig150 331]

I have to use that style of muffler elbow, and can't fit it in with the flange.

[pfrederi 18,689]

Make sure Exhaust valve is closed. Stick you sawzall into the pipe and cut down keeping it level until you begin to faintly see threads. Use you r shop vac a lot to keep from getting too many shavings in the valve area.   At that point try a big pipe wrench The pipe should start to collapse and then it usually will turn out. 

Edited May 8, 2019 by pfrederi

[Mudrig150 331]

3 hours ago, richmondred01 said:

Getting that out will make getting flywheel off look easy.

what I recommend is cutting it flush with the block.

There are two holes used to mount a flange style muffler. Using a tap clean the threads on two mounting holes and use a flange style muffler rather then the screw in muffler.

 

Only one of those muffler will work with this motor, the 2nd one. 

[6wheeler 669]

Sounds like you seem to know lot about how these unfortunate thing that happened to this engine . Is it possible? You did this ? . Just kidding. Is there any of the exhaust elbow left that you could get a hold of with a pipe wrench? If so? Here is a neat trick. If you can reach inside with arc welder? While the engine block is fully cooled. Strike a weld on the inside of the pipe itself where the threads are (on the inside of the pipe elbow). Weld about 1/4 to 1/3rd around on the inside. While the pipe is still hot? Grab it with a pipe wrench and loosen. Try to do it rather quickly. This works by distorting the pipe just enough to break it loose. Worth a try. Good Luck         Pat

Edited May 8, 2019 by 6wheeler

[Mudrig150 331]

1 hour ago, 6wheeler said:

Sounds like you seem to know lot about how these unfortunate thing that happened to this engine . Is it possible? You did this ? . Just kidding. Is there any of the exhaust elbow left that you could get a hold of with a pipe wrench? If so? Here is a neat trick. If you can reach inside with arc welder? While the engine block is fully cooled. Strike a weld on the inside of the pipe itself where the threads are (on the inside of the pipe elbow). Weld about 1/4 to 1/3rd around on the inside. While the pipe is still hot? Grab it with a pipe wrench and loosen. Try to do it rather quickly. This works by distorting the pipe just enough to break it loose. Worth a try. Good Luck         Pat

The whole elbow is intact. I'm trying to get it out as one piece.

[953 nut 60,074]

As with anything that is stuck, position the offending part so you can give it several soakings of penetrating oil over the course of a week. A few members here have reported good results using a Needle Scaler on the exhaust nipple while applying constant pressure with a BIG pipe wrench. The vibration seems to help break up the rust.

[oliver2-44 10,734]

Do you really, really need to get the elbow out of the block??

Some things are best left alone if possible? 

[richmondred01 2,307]

3 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Do you really, really need to get the elbow out of the block??

Some things are best left alone if possible? 

 

Based on several decades of working on these engines that’s my vote. Grind it flush and put a flanged muffler on it. They mount the same way. 

[953 nut 60,074]

1 hour ago, Mudrig150 said:

The whole elbow is intact. I'm trying to get it out as one piece.

Is it safe to say the elbow is in the throwaway block and you are attempting to salvage it for use in another block?

[Sarge 3,465]

The saw cutting method inside the pipe nipple works the best and preserves the engine as it should. If you don't have a powered saw to do the job, get a good 14 tooth bi-metal cutting blade and hunt around for one of the hand handles they sell to use with Sawzall blades. This removes the issue with controlling the power tool and trying not to wreck a perfectly good engine block. That pipe nipple is easily cut and the bi-metal blades will go through it a lot quicker than you think. To make the job easier, you can cut the nipple off closer to the block to get a better look at it while cutting the notch into the nipple - leave the end of that nipple long enough to fully engage with a pipe wrench. Once the cut is down about 1/16" into the nipple, put a pipe wrench on it with the moveable jaw clocked just before your cut - as you pull on that wrench it will collapse the pipe easily and screw the thing right out, job done. 

 

To use a different flanged type of muffler - that outside surface of the block would have to be sanded or milled down flat enough for the gasket to seal. As rusted as that surface is currently - no gasket will make up for those pitted holes. 

 

Given the issues with this engine and a lack of experience/equipment - it would be best to hand the donor parts and all to a proper machine shop. A good, rebuilt K341 is hard to come by these days and for what it costs, doing the job right is worth the price. There is no replacement engine that can match the raw torque of that Kohler, nor run as long and pull as hard unless you find a good solid single cylinder diesel - which is 3 times the price. 

Sarge

[Mudrig150 331]

The elbow is in the good block, not the throwaway block. I need to get it out to put the WH style elbow.