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ET160

B-80 (5084) Rebuild--Parts Unit?

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ET160

I'm going to tear into my B-80 transaxle soon. I seem to be able to get everything I need from A-Z, but I'm wondering whether I should get a parts unit instead.

 

I can get another 5084 for $100 about 3 hours from me.  Is this a good idea?

 

I imagine it could be, but I also recognize it could all depend on the parts unit: I could end with a lot parts that don't solve the problem.

 

I need an axle and a hub or two, but I don't know about bearings or gears.

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ebinmaine

that's too much of a crapshoot to drive that far to take that much of a chance on getting the stuff that you need. The reason I say that is because the parts that you need are the ones that wear out or break the most often.

 

Also, spending six hours on the road to get something that may or may not be usable by you... And you're not going to know until you tear it apart.

and quite frankly, $100 for a 4-speed transmission is plenty of money unless you know the seller and you know for a fact the unit is in good usable condition.

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The Tool Crib

I agree with you Eric. Travel time gas and you have to eat in there some where. I would be more into tearing it down and getting the parts you need. Good luck and

 

:text-welcomeconfetti:to:rs:

:wwp:

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Racinbob
Posted (edited)

I agree with Eric. I would open yours up to verify what you need. If the other transmission is truly a 5084 and you can be assured it's in top condition $100 is fair but it sounds like it's simply for whatever parts are still good. Keep in mind that not all "4-speeds" are the same. The list calls them all 4-speeds but the earlier units were 3-speeds. Seemingly identical but the brake drum is mounted on a different shaft. The 3-speeds have the drum on the mushroom gear shaft, the 4-speeds on the cluster:bow-blue: gear shaft. A lot of the parts are interchangeable but some aren't. A swap from a 4-speed to a 3-speed isn't difficult but I'm not sure you'd want to go that route. If all you need are axles and hubs they are interchangeable. :)

Edited by stevasaurus
corrected the mushroom/cluster gear statement
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ET160

Thanks for the replies.  I'll open up the trans that I have and see how it looks.

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ET160

I've torn everything apart and am now making a parts list.

 

I messed up a needle bearing taking an axle out.  I looks like one of the 1 1/2 ID case bearing is noisy, too.

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pfrederi

At about $6.10 each  I replace the axle needle bearings any time I open one up.

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ET160

I think I will buy the kit. 

 

I'm wondering about the axle case bearings.  One is noisy.  I can get a new one for $45 or a used for about $25, I think.

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953 nut
19 minutes ago, ET160 said:

the axle case bearings.  One is noisy.

That is the 1533 bearing, give it a few drops of gear oil, if it is still noisy it should be replaced.

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ET160
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

That is the 1533 bearing, give it a few drops of gear oil, if it is still noisy it should be replaced.

Will do.

 

What the best way to remove it?  Can i pry it up with a screw driver?

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Racinbob
On ‎4‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 7:04 AM, Racinbob said:

I agree with Eric. I would open yours up to verify what you need. If the other transmission is truly a 5084 and you can be assured it's in top condition $100 is fair but it sounds like it's simply for whatever parts are still good. Keep in mind that not all "4-speeds" are the same. The list calls them all 4-speeds but the earlier units were 3-speeds. Seemingly identical but the brake drum is mounted on a different shaft. The 3-speeds have the drum on the mushroom gear shaft, the 4-speeds on the cluster:bow-blue: gear shaft. A lot of the parts are interchangeable but some aren't. A swap from a 4-speed to a 3-speed isn't difficult but I'm not sure you'd want to go that route. If all you need are axles and hubs they are interchangeable. :)

 

A mega :text-thankyouyellow: to Steve for correcting me and having the superpowers to edit my post. I always get it confused so I even checked the manual but I still had it wrong :angry-banghead:. The post now reads correctly. 

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953 nut
1 hour ago, ET160 said:

Will do.

 

What the best way to remove it?  Can i pry it up with a screw driver?

I found a good substitute for a large blind gear/bearing puller. A 6" pry bar and light hammer work for removing the 1533 bearing.

100_0245.JPG.ec6e9de19ae331f34933f5d9db9567ea.JPG100_0244.JPG.500474b4de661cf76fc677e0b12effeb.JPG

 

With the bar in place you tap on the end that sticks out, rotate it slightly and tap again until it pops out. The pry bar end is against the outer race.

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ET160

953 nut,  I wish I had seen you post earlier.  I went and bought a cheap puller.

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