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norton41

Advice neede on ignition coil

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norton41

Hi friends

 

I was recently given a Wheel Horse Charger 12 automatic which has been idle for a number of years.  I have managed to get it to crank over having replaced the solonoid but there is no spark and a multi meter test of the coil across the LT circuit shows no resistance.  The coil is a non standard car type one and I need advice on whether I can replace with similar, and if so does it need to be ballast or non ballast?  You help is gratefully received and I guess will be needed over the coming weeks as I work my way through the ignition system!

IMG_4540.JPG

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pfrederi

Welcome!!! What does your existing coil look like???  WH used 3 different ignition systems on Chargers Battery/coil   Magneto points and Breakerless.  If you have a can shaped coil you have a Battery ignition and you need an internally resisted coil.  If it is a triangular shape it is a breaker less system.  Parts for that are hard to come by and being in England may be very very hard to find.  Conversion to a battery ignition would be your best option.

 

Breakerless coil will be on the engine shroud front.

 

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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953 nut

:WRS:

There are several things that can interrupt the ignition system including the seat switch and PTO lever. If your ignition coil looks like the one below there should be 12 volts DC present at the small "+"  with the key in run or start. If you have the coil type like Paul showed you above be sure that no electrical power ever goes to it.

Let us know what you come up with.

Image result for ignition coil

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norton41

Thanks guys.  It is definitely a can type similar to above, but I doubt its the original as it is 'unipart' brand .  I have also checked that there is power to the coil when the ignition switch is turned to first position.  So it sounds like I need a ballast coil?  I can post pics if it helps

 

 

 

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953 nut
4 minutes ago, norton41 said:

I need a ballast coil?

Older VW engines on 12 volt cars (1967 or newer I believe) had an internal resistance coil.

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norton41

OK, thanks for your help!

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RetroMower

I had the exact same problem. Someone here suggested one from tractor supply and it did the trick but what I believe was the real saving grace was cleaning and gapping the points correctly. While i was at it I replaced the wire from the points to the coil. Years of vibration and uv exposure can degrade wiring. Link below is for the coil

 

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-ignition-coil-396547r93?cm_vc=-10005 

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norton41

Thanks RetroMower, no doubt I will be moving onto the points from the coil!!! 

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953 nut
18 hours ago, RetroMower said:

one from tractor supply and it did the trick

I didn't think Tractor supply has a store in England, that is why I referenced the VW coil.  Good suggestion on the points!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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RetroMower
4 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I didn't think Tractor supply has a store in England, that is why I referenced the VW coil.  Good suggestion on the points!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

Didn't realize norton41 was from jolly ol England... my bad :doh:

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norton41

Success!  I also had to replace the points and it now runs well, and I need to turn my attention to transmission as no forward or rearwards drive action!!  Happy if any friends can point me in the right direction!

 

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pfrederi

Download the Sundstrand manual here.  Very good diagnostic charts.  have to ask have you checked and made sure your tow valve is in drive position???

 

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norton41

Hey thanks Trouty I managed to get it moving, the screwvalve had been openned up to enable it to be pushed, so it was just a matter of winding back in

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squonk

Napa coil IC64SB

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