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Jojoca

Please help, no power

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Jojoca

I could use some help.  I’ve got a c105 black hood.  When I started it earlier it ran for a minute and lost all power and died.  I have no power to headlights when ignition switch and light switch is on. I’ve checked the couple fuses it has and pulled all connections from relay, ignition switch and plugged back in with no success. Does rectifier prevent all power to everything?  I took ignition switch apart twice and cleaned it real well and still nothing. It was filthy inside and thought for sure that was the problem. All battery and cylinoid connections have been checked. What else would prevent no power to lights or engine? 

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Stepney

Have a test light or a meter? Check for power from battery to ignition switch. Switch could be faulty. Also check the grounds. Also.. are you sure the battery didn't perhaps up and quit? I've had that happen. As for the rectifier. No. Its only for charging. It won't mess up anything else. 

 

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Jojoca

Yeah battery is fine. I checked all grounds. How exactly do I check if it is definitely the switch. It’s a five prong switch. 

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gwest_ca

This should be the switch you have. Click on the picture and then more will come up.

See if you have power to the two studs on the back of the ammeter. If you have power at one and not the other the ammeter has failed. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove one ammeter wire and place it on the other stud which just joins the two wires. Does not matter which one. This effectively bypasses the ammeter to get you going. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Let us know what you find.

Garry

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Razorback

I vote for safety switch. When I first got my C160, the safety switch at the PTO lever was not making good. Too much play on the shaft, made it where the button on the safety switch would not make good, consistent contact with the piece of spring metal on the PTO lever.

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gwest_ca

Good wiring diagrams

Garry

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squonk

If there is an ammeter check the connection there. All power goes thru it first. Do what Gary said.

 

Edited by squonk
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beehive

Check to make sure you are getting power thru the fuse that is connected to the positive battery side at the starter solenoid. had the same thing happen on my 1980 C-105. replace the fuse link and has worked fine ever since

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953 nut

Electrical connections all need to be CLEANED and TIGHTENED!

1465637135_1electrical.jpg.8458d61a7b5a9b4c8a30ed9c3fbc9ef9.jpg

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Jojoca

No power coming from the wires that come out of ignition switch to amp meter gauge so must be a faulty ignition switch. I’ll check if our tractor supply has one. Thank you for everyone’s help!

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Razorback

?????

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Jojoca

I stuck meter in both female terminals in both wires running to the ameter and with key turned on there was no reading on meter so wouldn’t that mean switch?  If so I’ll have to wait til tomorrow to get new one 

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Razorback

Maybe we are looking at it differently....

If I was troubleshooting this, I would take my meter, black lead clipped to the frame (a good ground), then use that diagram to probe each step away from the positive side of the battery. Make sure that the conditions are right for it to start and run..... Without having your tractor in front of me, I am thinking there is something missing between the battery and the key switch.

Just a best guess.....

 

If you have a phone and ready access to the tractor and want to probe around, I’d be glad to try and help.

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Jojoca

Ok I took a test light and connected to ground and none of the wires running to the ignition switch has power running to it. The seat switch has never worked so I’m guessing that was bypassed before I bought it last year. Would the pto switch limit any power to those Wires running to the ignition switch?  Thank you razorback

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Jojoca

I also just checked the pto switch and no power coming out of any of the wires that plug into the switch 

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Jojoca

I have power immediately after the 25 amp fuse wire though 

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Jojoca

Well I figured it out. It turned out to be corroded in the fuse link and probing it with a test light was enough to make contact but with fuse there was none. I’ll buy fuse tomorrow and will be good to go. Thanks everyone. 

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953 nut
6 hours ago, Jojoca said:

Well I figured it out. It turned out to be corroded in the fuse link and probing it with a test light was enough to make contact but with fuse there was none. I’ll buy fuse tomorrow and will be good to go. Thanks everyone. 

The corroded area you found is a symptom, not a cure.   There will be some corrosion in other connections that will come back to haunt you if you don't take care of it.             CLEAN AND TIGHTEN ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS INCLUDING GROUNDS!

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squonk

Go through your connections Here are some wiring road maps

 

 

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