Onan P216

[bellevillerod 834]

I was working on the 416H I just brought home a month ago. In cleaning it up I noticed a lot of oil under the engine. It seems to be coming from the pipe that screws into the oil pan. That pipe flops around and seems really loose. You can't spin it because of the 45 on the end. Do you have to break the engine loose and lift to tighten it? Is there another fix that i'm just not seeing? I can't believe that it came from the factory that floppy. Somebody give me the easy fix.....

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

1 hour ago, bellevillerod said:

I was working on the 416H I just brought home a month ago. In cleaning it up I noticed a lot of oil under the engine. It seems to be coming from the pipe that screws into the oil pan. That pipe flops around and seems really loose. You can't spin it because of the 45 on the end. Do you have to break the engine loose and lift to tighten it? Is there another fix that i'm just not seeing? I can't believe that it came from the factory that floppy. Somebody give me the easy fix.....

For some odd reason I they work their selves loose, it did on my bought new anniversary 520H, anyways the easiest way is to drain the oil then remove the long portion of pipe then remove the elbow and using a PTFE type thread sealant (not Teflon tape) on the threads and reinstall (most likely an extra full turn) into the pan then add the long piece again and refill with oil...thats how I fixed mine many moons ago, you could also go with flexible tubing eliminating the extra weight hanging on the elbow, I'm sure if you do a search on 520 oil drain repairs that should pop up, Jeff.

[bellevillerod 834]

Great I did some searches but must have used the wrong terms. I was in there yesterday and didn't think that the 45 would turn without hitting but I will go check it better. Ya it looks like it will take an easy full turn. Thanks for the quick reply, Just finished with it and was getting it ready to pull out and get the next tractor in line into the redo spot. Guess it will half to spend a little more time there. Thanks

[peter lena 8,035]

 if that is a standard  thread, you could also go to  a  ( AN  ) , EARLS AN TYPE  OIL FITTING,  letting you add a flex hose , while ensuring you have a fitting designed for severe oil related usage, https://www.google.com/search?q=earls+oil+fittings&hl=en&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiv_f7t3ovhAhWtmeAKHXXnAnMQsxgILQ&biw=1024&bih=690#spd=16445016484803087398.  PETE

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

I think some of the guys used like 1/2" clear hose clamped onto a short piece at the elbow with a petcock on the end for toolless  oil changes...maybe Jim @WHX22 did this on his.

[lynnmor 6,762]

Disassemble the parts one at a time to remove.  Cut the threads in the block with a pipe tap to restore the original shape.  Using new pipe fittings from the hardware store, install the first one in the perfectly clean and oil free block using red thread locker, Teflon or similar material will allow it to become loose over time.  The remaining parts can be fitted using Teflon tape.  If you ever need to remove the piece in the block, use heat if it won't come out easily.

[bellevillerod 834]

21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

perfectly clean and oil free block using red thread locker

This is true if using any kind of loctite, I see that all the time after telling someone to use that. They come back an claim that that stuff don't work. When asked how well they cleaned it,they just wiped it out. I use brake cleaner spray and air to clean. Never had anything come loose after that
 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 46,692]

Had this problem with every one of my 520's and did exactly what Lynn suggested just for a quick fix during an oil change.  I did not bother to chase the threads but not the worst  idea.

To get it to spin just remove the four block mounting screws and get a small flat bar under the motor and lift up abit. Tip the motor to the front to keep oil from weeping out. Clean the threads with some solvent & q-tips to inspect and seal. You might even be able to use blue loctite. I used red but only cause I was out of blue.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

I work in the maintance department at my factory, pipe threads are tapered meaning the more threads you can spin in the tighter it will be without the thread locking compounds, also that means the taper is an interference fit or the seal between the two (male and female) sets of threads, the reason I prefer PTFE paste is because of the steel pipe fittings mating to the aluminum oil pan to keep the dissimilar metals from galling together and to help seal the difference in threads (some are cut some are rolled not all taps/dies are created equal) plus it won't lock up the oil pump or passages like Teflon tape or other sealants that will harden over time, seen to many hydraulic systems at work clogged up from the tape and I did my fast and hard repair probably 12+ years ago and hasn't failed since.

[richmondred01 2,202]

Any and all onans I get I always pull the engine and resolve several maintenance issues if I didn’t know the prior owner.

Pull the heads and Decarb.

Remove valves clean and lap. Replace or reface if needed.

Adjust the valves.

Replace the tube from the block to fuel pump.

Replace ignition module.

Clean and rebuild carb.

New head gaskets, new valve seal, new valve cover gaskets, new exhaust and intake gasket.

Inspect intake manifold.

PTFE the oil drain. 

With the aforementioned items done, your onan, with scheduled oil changes, should give you no problems for 350 hours.