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HappyHillbilly

1976 K341 Overhaul - Worth It or Not?

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, HappyHillbilly said:

So this repair’s gonna turn out like all my other repairs - I’m gonna have parts left over. :thumbs:

Ever notice how the the "spare bolt" you're left with ALWAYS goes at the least convenient place you forgot about?

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HappyHillbilly

While waiting for my engine parts I decided to try to take care of some of my tractor's other issues. I know this post doesn't belong here in the "Engines" section but I didn't know where else to post it.

 

Can anyone tell me the official name of the aluminum dash/hood-rest thingy? I may have hit a major snag to a full restoration. It looks like it's cast, to me, and as far as I can remember cast aluminum doesn't weld very well. I don't know what to do about it. I'm sure 

RJ Hamner

might could help me with what it should look like. I'd love to find a replacement but I'm betting that's a longshot.

 

Thanks!

Mike

 

IMG_1775.JPG

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ebinmaine

Getting the steering wheel off can be past challenging so we didn't try on any of our restorations.

That upper dash panel and steering wheel can be donated from other tractors and should be readily available if yours isn't repairable.

 

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Howie

I had mine welded up in that area.

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RJ Hamner
1 hour ago, HappyHillbilly said:

While waiting for my engine parts I decided to try to take care of some of my tractor's other issues. I know this post doesn't belong here in the "Engines" section but I didn't know where else to post it.

 

Can anyone tell me the official name of the aluminum dash/hood-rest thingy? I may have hit a major snag to a full restoration. It looks like it's cast, to me, and as far as I can remember cast aluminum doesn't weld very well. I don't know what to do about it. I'm sure 

RJ Hamner

might could help me with what it should look like. I'd love to find a replacement but I'm betting that's a longshot.

 

Thanks!

Mike

 

IMG_1775.JPG

 

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RJ Hamner

Yep they re cast alum you can probably find one at A-Z in PA. He is one of the vendors.  

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HappyHillbilly
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Getting the steering wheel off can be past challenging so we didn't try on any of our restorations.

That upper dash panel and steering wheel can be donated from other tractors and should be readily available if yours isn't repairable.

 

 

Thanks, Eb! Do you mean that getting the steering wheel off can be harder than getting that dang cotter pin out of the brake rod, nearest engine? After nearly 30 minutes I finally got it drilled out. That’s the roughest thing I’ve encountered so far.

 

42 minutes ago, Howie said:

I had mine welded up in that area.

 

That’s encouraging to hear. Thanks.

 

6 minutes ago, RJ Hamner said:

Yep they re cast alum you can probably find one at A-Z in PA. He is one of the vendors.  

 

Thank you, RJ. He was referred to me about a few other parts I need, too. Will call him up.

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, HappyHillbilly said:

getting the steering wheel off can be harder than ..........

They have a tendency to rust-weld themselves to the steering shaft.

 

I've likely got that aluminum piece around if you want one. Yours for the price of the freight.

 

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Sarge

Those cast aluminum dash housings can be welded easily with the right frequency and ac balance on a tig, or even a dc spool gun machine. That wear point is typical of those 60's era tractors and really not that much of an issue. Mostly due to the frame flexing when working the tractor hard - or the rear frame plate where the rear axle is attached has been cracked/broken. Either have it welded or replace it - but I'd hang onto the old one as these parts are starting to dry up, repairable parts are our future around here. 

 

Sarge

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HappyHillbilly
6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

They have a tendency to rust-weld themselves to the steering shaft.

 

I've likely got that aluminum piece around if you want one. Yours for the price of the freight.

 

 

That's mighty nice of you. Thanks! At first I thought there's supposed to be a 1" wide tab at the top/center for the wingnut-type fastener to go through. I thought mine was broke off, but after looking at it more closely I think that area's OK. However - Not visible in the first photo is an area I'm unsure of whether it's a piece broken off or not. Please see new photo below.

I'll see if I can get the steering wheel to budge & we'll go from there since now I know there's a possibility it can be welded IF I can find someone around here that's good enough.

 

3 hours ago, Sarge said:

Those cast aluminum dash housings can be welded easily with the right frequency and ac balance on a tig, or even a dc spool gun machine. That wear point is typical of those 60's era tractors and really not that much of an issue. Mostly due to the frame flexing when working the tractor hard - or the rear frame plate where the rear axle is attached has been cracked/broken. Either have it welded or replace it - but I'd hang onto the old one as these parts are starting to dry up, repairable parts are our future around here. 

 

Sarge

 

Thank you. That's good to know. If I can salvage this one, I will - that way I won't have to pull from the limited surplus. I'll definitely donate this one if I have to replace it.

 

The gash in the upper/left corner of the aluminum housing - is it supposed to be like that? It appears to me that it's broken out due to the roughness.

 

And for future reference - Where, what section, should I have posted my question about this? I feel bad about going off topic here. I'm sorry! Moderators - Feel free to move these posts and/or correct me.

 

Hope ya'll have a great weekend!

Mike

(HH)

IMG_1792.JPG

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pacer

You're still pretty new around here and as you have already seen/encountered/found out these horses have some --- peculiarities?

 

There are a handful of difficult things on the various models, but to my thinking, removing steering wheels and axle hubs have to be the PITS!!:bitch:

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pfrederi
20 minutes ago, pacer said:

You're still pretty new around here and as you have already seen/encountered/found out these horses have some --- peculiarities?

 

There are a handful of difficult things on the various models, but to my thinking, removing steering wheels and axle hubs have to be the PITS!!:bitch:

 

 

Don't forget hitch pins....

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Ed Kennell
3 hours ago, pacer said:

, removing steering wheels and axle hubs have to be the PITS!!:bitch:

I'll just add...removing a hitch pin to that list.

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HappyHillbilly

Well..., I worked on removing the steering wheel this afternoon.

”How did that go?”

Me: “Noot tooo gooood....”

:confusion-confused:

Haha! Even if I could’ve driven out the spiral pin I most likely would’ve had to cut the nut off. Man, the handful of corrosion that was in there.

 

So, Eric, for now - I won’t be needing the dash you kindly offered. 

 

Next lesson......

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Ed Kennell
8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

Don't forget hitch pins....

Sorry Paul,  I didn't see your post till now.  :text-blondmoment:

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Sarge

With that much damage to the dash - someone has abused it quite a lot. I would start looking very closely at the frame, from one end to the other for cracks.

The only trick to fixing the broken areas on the cast dash part is to get it clean enough - those castings are quite contaminated when they were built. BTW, for those attempting to work on aluminum castings - there is a new filler rod available - hunt for information on Hobart 4943.

 

Sarge

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HappyHillbilly
6 hours ago, Sarge said:

With that much damage to the dash - someone has abused it quite a lot. I would start looking very closely at the frame, from one end to the other for cracks.

The only trick to fixing the broken areas on the cast dash part is to get it clean enough - those castings are quite contaminated when they were built. BTW, for those attempting to work on aluminum castings - there is a new filler rod available - hunt for information on Hobart 4943.

 

Sarge

 

Thanks, Sarge! I removed the mower deck last night & took photos of some areas that appear to have leaking issues - that way, after I clean it & run it awhile I'll know what areas to look at. Will clean it & inspect it good.

BTW - I found a diagram of the aluminum dash housing (part #5540) in the Sheet Metal & Covers section of the parts list in the Downloads section here. I can tell just how worn out/damaged mine is.

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953 nut

This morning there was another post that relates to balance gears.               :sad-darkcloud:

 

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HappyHillbilly

Ouch! Thanks. I’ve already decided they’re not going back in. Heck - since I’ve never driven this thing before I’ll probably never notice.

 

My parts should be here any hour now & I will begin reassembly, with hopes of firing it up by end of the week.

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HappyHillbilly

OK - I've got another question I can't find an answer to:

I'm re-using the crankshaft bearings as they appear to be good. I cleaned/degreased them to make sure no unauthorized metal enters this rebuild. Should I apply any multi-purpose grease to them before installing them?

My mind keeps thinking about truck wheel bearings and packing 'em with grease but something's telling me; "No!"

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953 nut

Your engine lives with OIL, just give them a few drops of oil before the crank goes in.

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HappyHillbilly
34 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Your engine lives with OIL, just give them a few drops of oil before the crank goes in.

 

Thanks, Richard. I thought that if they were greased it could create a mess with the engine oil.

 

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HappyHillbilly

What happened to my engine???  :eek:

 

I'm not 100% sure what happened to it. I don't know if it was caused by mechanical failure or mechanic failure (something I did or didn't do right). What do you think?

I need you all to be truthful & straight-forward if it appears to be due to something I did or didn’t do.

 

- After hand-cleaning every bolt, washer, nut, etc..., and a fancy paint job - I mounted the engine on the tractor and tried cranking. It only turned a partial revolution & stopped. I noticed the starter was hung in the extended position.

- Removed starter & lubed it to where it seemed to be working good - retracting, etc... & then bolted it back on.

- A shot of starter fluid & it fired right up but was rattling bad & I could see starter was still extended.

- Tried to shut it down quickly but within a split second it stopped on it's on & I could see a piece of the block from right above the starter pop out.

- Removed the oil pan & found the connecting rod pieces. Piston was still in cylinder.

 

New piston, rings & pin, but the connecting rod wasn't replaced. It appeared to be in good condition so I didn't replace it.

 

Man,,,. this made me sick to my stomach after putting so much work into this thing.

Photos of the engine, what it looked like when I finished rebuilding it, are in my next post.

 

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IMG_1941.JPG

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Edited by HappyHillbilly
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HappyHillbilly

Engine rebuild photos:

 

 

IMG_1927.JPG

IMG_1929.JPG

IMG_1930.JPG

IMG_1931.JPG

IMG_1934.JPG

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oldredrider

That's a heartbreaker for sure. My guess is something wrong with the rod installation. Rod appears to be an oversize (.010). What did the crank mic? Was the rod cap installed with the proper orientation? 

You'll have to do some investigating to find the reason.

Sorry about all that work going south.

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