Electro 12 here early....

[cazngz 19]

Well, thanks to the nutty weather here in Ne Pa. I have my Electro 12 a month or 2 earlier than I thought I would.  All we had to do was get 4 garden tractors out of the way first.  Since it was out of sight for so long I kinda forgot what I was getting myself in for but, for free one can't complain.  And it's now parked in my garage so whenever the mood moves me I can slowly get to it.  It doesn't look too bad for its age ( I have to check numbers and find out what year it is )  the seat, if original, shows no tears at all.  As I expcted,  the engine oil is black so I'll change it before I even start it, run it for a while ands then rechange it. Air filter flunks the light test and berlieve or not, I'm actually not finding a simple 6 inch round by 1 3/4 inch high air filter.  Some places don't even list the size they just want part numbers.  Someone cobbled it up a bit and the dash is pretty much a waste.  Other parts of it seem to be in pretty good condition.  It had started and ran but was leaking tranny oil to the point where it wasn't getting used.  It was then parked and sat ever since.  Kind of comical but the Electro 12 and the other side decals are in great shape..  Go figure..  If anyone is interested I'll try to post some pic's if its easy to do...   I can send pic's from my wifes cell phone to another phone but so far I haven't any luck with websites.  Since I'm big on filter changes does it make any difference as far as the filter goes whether the tranny takes engine oil or ATF such as Dextron ?   I'm 90 percent leaning  that it takes Dextron like my old D-180 did..  I used to use Ford engine filters for over 20 years with no ill effects..  changed them once a year, thought it was cheap insurance.

[pfrederi 18,719]

In addition to changing engine oil drain the gas tank and fuel lines use fresh gas.  If the tranny fluid is red it is ATF use the Dex-merc type  Tranny filter is Wix 51410

 

Air is Kohler 235116 Wix 42373

[cazngz 19]

17 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

In addition to changing engine oil drain the gas tank and fuel lines use fresh gas.  If the tranny fluid is red it is ATF use the Dex-merc type  Tranny filter is Wix 51410

 

Air is Kohler 235116 Wix 42373

 

      Thanks..  I just ran the Model and Serial numbers for it, according to the numbers, its a 1970 model..    Yes, it doesn't take long for gas to ger screwed up these days.

[pfrederi 18,719]

I have 5 Electro/Chargers they are fantastic tractors.  Three are my snow horses 2 plow 1 Blower

 

Does your Electro still have the electric PTO??  (a lot were changed out over time depending on what you want to use it for you may want to change it out the sudden engagement is a bit harsh for snow blowers that may be iced up.

 

Which ignition system do you have??  WH/Kohler kept Changing.. My 5 have 4 different ignition systems. Battery points, Magneto Points, Breakerless, and Techy Solid State.

 

Hydro leaks  #1 axle seals #2 Lift Cylinder #3 Motion control all are fixable.

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by pfrederi

[cazngz 19]

34 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I have 5 Electro/Chargers they are fantastic tractors.  Three are my snow horses 2 plow 1 Blower

 

Does your Electro still have the electric PTO??  (a lot were changed out over time depending on what you want to use it for you may want to change it out the sudden engagement is a bit harsh for snow blowers that may be iced up.

 

Which ignition system do you have??  WH/Kohler kept Changing.. My 5 have 4 different ignition systems. Battery points, Magneto Points, Breakerless, and Techy Solid State.

 

Hydro leaks  #1 axle seals #2 Lift Cylinder #3 Motion control all are fixable.

 

      I'll have to check those items out..  It's only been in the garage a few hours..  yes it has a PTO but I don't know if it is electric or not.  The ignition system is unknow to me especially since it has been worked on, has empty holes in 2 of the openings in the dash and I'm at a loss to know what was changed and what wasn't.  If I can put a battery in it,  it starts and runs ok, well  I'll be a happy camper.   I believe my brother said it has an axle leak but I didn't verify that as yet.  If for sure has a leak, just don't know where.  I'm not much of a mechanic, more a parts, engine/tranny/filter changer than anything else.  But, I'm hoping to get it together to be a viable machine for the limited use it will see.  I also hace a Case 220 which has been, for its size, an unbelieveable replacement for pulling heavy loads of logs up and down 10 degree grades down in the woods.  Also bought a CC 3184 for pushing snow in these Pocono Mts.  And its actually doing better than I thought it would.  If the Electro is what I'm expecting it to be I'll probably never have to buy another tractor.  That's kinda funny when you factor in the newest tractor I have is the CC and that's a 2001...

[953 nut 60,393]

2 hours ago, cazngz said:

If anyone is interested I'll try to post some pic's if its easy to do...   I can send pic's from my wifes cell phone to another phone but so far I haven't any luck with websites.

This post may help you out.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,528]

20 files you may find of interest

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="1970 electro 12"&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or

 

Garry

[pfrederi 18,719]

If the tractor has a can shaped  coil you have battery ignition

 

Triangular coil   breakerless.  No coil at all..spark plug wire comes from under engine shroud you have magneto.

[cazngz 19]

22 hours ago, pfrederi said:

If the tractor has a can shaped  coil you have battery ignition

 

Triangular coil   breakerless.  No coil at all..spark plug wire comes from under engine shroud you have magneto.

    Pretty sure it's a can type on the side of the machine..  The spark plug wire goes directly to the coil if you're working backwards.       Unfortunately I'll be leaving for a few days and won't get back to it until next week.   I'm really curious how it performs against my 10 Hp Case 220 as far as pulling.  The Case is a freaken beast with that true hydraulic drive....  for 10 HP it's just ridiculous what it can do..  For 73  I still get pumped when I get  a new toy....  

[cazngz 19]

On 2/6/2019 at 5:58 PM, cazngz said:

    Pretty sure it's a can type on the side of the machine..  The spark plug wire goes directly to the coil if you're working backwards.       Unfortunately I'll be leaving for a few days and won't get back to it until next week.   I'm really curious how it performs against my 10 Hp Case 220 as far as pulling.  The Case is a freaken beast with that true hydraulic drive....  for 10 HP it's just ridiculous what it can do..  For 73  I still get pumped when I get  a new toy....  

 

      OOPS...   I checked today and it is indeed a triangular shaped coil.   Wire goes from coil directly to spark plug, not under the engine shroud.  So I have no points to mess with ?   What's the downside if any  having breakerless ignition ?

 

 

[pfrederi 18,719]

Make absolutely sure you have an ignition switch that has an "M" terminal...not an "I"

 

They are great ignition systems...until they fail, the parts are very expensive....

 

I have two that run great.  No need to clean adjust points.

Edited February 12, 2019 by pfrederi

[cazngz 19]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Make absolutely sure you have an ignition switch that has an "M" terminal...not an "I"

 

They are great ignition systems...until they fail, the parts are very expensive....

 

I have two that run great.  No need to clean adjust points.

 

 

     Not sure what you mean....    I believe the ignition switch either  to have been hacked/changed or otherwise worked on.  There are a couple of empty holes on the dash where something obviously went, exactly what I don't yet know.  It did start and run before it was put away so why am I looking for an M or an I terminal ?  What will that tell me ?   I'm presently charging a battery and will probably try to start it after an engine oil change, most likely in a day or two.  ( if the coming snow doesn't upset my schedule )

[Sparky-(Admin) 23,324]

Be real careful you don’t “fry” those ignition parts. As these guys have said they are hard to find and can be pricey. Many many years ago I did a swap on a motor like yours to a conventional points/coil/condenser setup. 

[cazngz 19]

1 hour ago, Sparky said:

Be real careful you don’t “fry” those ignition parts. As these guys have said they are hard to find and can be pricey. Many many years ago I did a swap on a motor like yours to a conventional points/coil/condenser setup. 

 

 

     Ok... I keep getting lost here in the meaning of "  frying " those ignition parts.  I really don't plan on doing anything except starting it with the existing key and certainly not messing with the wiring unless I see frayed/damaged etc wires.  I guess the better question is " what should I not do to this system to avoid frying the parts "  ?  

[pfrederi 18,719]

The holes in your panel were probably used by switches for the Electric PTO (round hole) and head lights (rectangular hole).

 

Just look at the back of your ignition switch There will be markings next to the 5 terminals. A = Accessory R = Regulator B =Battery S = Starter and M= Magneto   If there is an I= ignition  terminal and no M terminal do not try to start it.  The M terminal grounds out the ignition system to stop the engine.  Your breakerless system generates its own spark without using the battery.  The I terminal is for traditional Battery points ignition system, it feeds voltage to the coil.  If you feed voltage to your system you  will destroy it. 

 

Just be sure you have a switch with an M terminal.

[cazngz 19]

6 hours ago, pfrederi said:

The holes in your panel were probably used by switches for the Electric PTO (round hole) and head lights (rectangular hole).

 

Just look at the back of your ignition switch There will be markings next to the 5 terminals. A = Accessory R = Regulator B =Battery S = Starter and M= Magneto   If there is an I= ignition  terminal and no M terminal do not try to start it.  The M terminal grounds out the ignition system to stop the engine.  Your breakerless system generates its own spark without using the battery.  The I terminal is for traditional Battery points ignition system, it feeds voltage to the coil.  If you feed voltage to your system you  will destroy it. 

 

Just be sure you have a switch with an M terminal.

 

     Ok....    Her's what I saw..  There are 3 single straight terminals, one of which has a positive wire/cable that goes directly to the positive side of the battery, a black wire on another and a third I can't see where it goes.  Those are also straight blade terminals. I also see what is probably a double terminal that has a black and an orange wirethat are paired together by a single black connector. Whether that is considered the M terminal, well you tell me cause I don't know.  Everything is hooked up and the gas tank is still in so this is what I can see with everything in place.  If needed, I can take off the switch but I can't see anything with it in place. What, if anything, can I deduce from this setup ?  This tractor was started and running many times by a battery before it was parked.  However, I happen to know the person that had the tractor before it was sold to my first brother and he may have done a whole of jury rigging it.  However it was done, it was running and started with the switch that's in place soooo....

[cazngz 19]

1 hour ago, cazngz said:

 

     Ok....    Her's what I saw..  There are 3 single straight terminals, one of which has a positive wire/cable that goes directly to the positive side of the battery, a black wire on another and a third I can't see where it goes.  Those are also straight blade terminals. I also see what is probably a double terminal that has a black and an orange wirethat are paired together by a single black connector. Whether that is considered the M terminal, well you tell me cause I don't know.  Everything is hooked up and the gas tank is still in so this is what I can see with everything in place.  If needed, I can take off the switch but I can't see anything with it in place. What, if anything, can I deduce from this setup ?  This tractor was started and running many times by a battery before it was parked.  However, I happen to know the person that had the tractor before it was sold to my first brother and he may have done a whole of jury rigging it.  However it was done, it was running and started with the switch that's in place soooo....

 

 

        Guess I should have added the double terminal is kinda L shaped, not quite an M but doesn't look exactly like an  L  either.  Definitely a double post though..

[953 nut 60,393]

Take a look at the switch in this manual, it should be the same as you have. From what you have described it sounds like the factory switch with the high amperage Battery/Start terminals. As long as that switch is working it will be fine.

 

[cazngz 19]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Take a look at the switch in this manual, it should be the same as you have. From what you have described it sounds like the factory switch with the high amperage Battery/Start terminals. As long as that switch is working it will be fine.

 

   While it is still in the tractor, from what I can see that certainly looks like what I have..   Nice to see what it should look like..  Thanks

[cazngz 19]

On 2/5/2019 at 4:19 PM, pfrederi said:

In addition to changing engine oil drain the gas tank and fuel lines use fresh gas.  If the tranny fluid is red it is ATF use the Dex-merc type  Tranny filter is Wix 51410

 

Air is Kohler 235116 Wix 42373

 

 

     Just for my info, what if the oil in the hydro is 10/30 for example ?  What is the correct oil filter or doesn't it make a difference ?  Until I drain it I'm not positive..

[953 nut 60,393]

Same filter, Wix 51410 or NAPA 1410.

[cazngz 19]

48 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Same filter, Wix 51410 or NAPA 1410.

        Interesting they take the same....   Thanks