upstate yank 219 #1 Posted January 21, 2019 well guys just an update on the old 657 i bought a few weeks back;searching around the web i was able to find another 6 horse Tecumseh motor model #H-60-75009 the seller mentioned that it came off a later 60 tractor ;as you can see in the pictures there was at one time a starter as you can see the gears on the fly wheel; this one has the bolt holes for a recoil as this one does not have it ;it would be nice really to have both electric and pull start that is if i can get the 4 screws to brake free in the motor i have now ;but the weather has changed so bad i haven;t had the time to get out to try to get them off 'i really don't know much about these types only with the motor on my favorite charger 10 as i have always been a kohler guy; so i really don't know what the fuse block is for as with the one i have now the wires have been cut from the key switch so i would have to find the wiring diagram ;no key in the switch so that is another issue; this motor is about a 3-1/2 hours drive one way 'so i would like to know if for 50.00 bucks is it worth the trip ;due to the bad weather in Kansas city ;it will be a while before i get there but he is going to hold it ;so any thoughts i sure would appreciate it' the shiftier will be next to try to fix 'i am sure i will have to take the tranny out to get to that dog screw ;'again tome was not built in a day and these older horses are worth trying to save ; 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,403 #2 Posted January 21, 2019 14 minutes ago, upstate yank said: really don't know what the fuse block is for as with the one i have now the wires have been cut from the key switch so i would have to find the wiring diagram Be careful! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #3 Posted January 21, 2019 4 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Be careful! thanks for the reply back but what purpose are they again these are all new to me ;so for the 50 bucks when i get the time to pick it up is it worth it and work on the one i have now 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #4 Posted January 22, 2019 look at this way you have 7 hrs worth of driving to pick up a 50 dollar engine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #5 Posted January 22, 2019 14 minutes ago, jabelman said: look at this way you have 7 hrs worth of driving to pick up a 50 dollar engine so very true that is ;plus even though it came from a older 60 horse it looks a lot better then the one i have now besides i have parts to make one whole 'i am just waiting for the days to get a little warmer as the seller wants then take the ride ;heck being a trucker for close to 40 years and being retired from the road another 7 hour ride wouldn't hurt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,048 #6 Posted January 22, 2019 27 minutes ago, jabelman said: look at this way you have 7 hrs worth of driving to pick up a 50 dollar engine One that was replaced for some reason and its condition unknown. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,719 #7 Posted January 22, 2019 The diodes are for charging system 3 amp. Not needed to make her run. Buy a cheap starter motor mount it forget the charging system charge the battery every 2-3 months and you will have an easy electric start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #8 Posted January 22, 2019 56 minutes ago, formariz said: One that was replaced for some reason and its condition unknown. the seller did tell me that the crank does turn over 'that is a good sign Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #9 Posted January 22, 2019 45 minutes ago, pfrederi said: The diodes are for charging system 3 amp. Not needed to make her run. Buy a cheap starter motor mount it forget the charging system charge the battery every 2-3 months and you will have an easy electric start. thanks for the input and i am hoping once i do get it ;there are no issues plus one member here does have a starter for it ;in time i will know if it will run 'thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #10 Posted January 22, 2019 2 hours ago, formariz said: One that was replaced for some reason and its condition unknown. sorry as either myself or you know if it is a replaced motor; i was told from the seller it came off an older horse dated back to the 60 era ;yep the condition is not known but the seller did say the crank does turn over; and this was the last item he had left from his older horse dated back to the mid 60 era ;the thing is in life we have to take chances and at times take the word of others ;heck if i take the chance to take the 7 plus hour trip and the motor is junk as the one i have now or just maybe it is alright ;but i can check it out before i decide to buy it but heck for 50 bucks as you mentioned and the 7 hour ride why not ;again parts are always nice ' anyways as you mentioned it is only a 7 hour ride to and from and for 50 bucks ;it seems you have to think about what you have replied as you say one thing then another ' as you said before for 75 with the pans and other items you didn't buy it 'but running jersey for years and most have a bad attitude and with me being from the new your area we are the same as i say it it as i see it' again it seems we both will not know till i check it out ' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,448 #11 Posted January 22, 2019 I have done this conversion on several of my H=60 Tecumseh motors. Ed Stoller posted this idea online several years ago. It works well! 3 Amp, One and Two Diode, Rectifier Created April 19, 2006, 3AmpRect.wpd 5-12-0 General, Some of the older Tecumseh engines had a small stator under the flywheel and the Rectifier assembly on a board as shown in Figure 5-12-1,H 60A.jpg. Often the diodes fail and are no longer available, so this section is about how to replace the diodes with ones that are readily available, Figure 5-12-2, H60B.jpg. The circuit diagram is shown in Figure 5-12-3, H60Dia.jpg. Figure 5-12-1 Figure 5-12-2 Figure 5-12-3 5-12-1 Replacement: The original diodes were held in place with a fuse holder like clip that are riveted in place. I drilled the rivets out and replaced them with 4- 40 screws. The clip was replaced with a terminal lug shown in figure 5-12 -2. The replacement diodes are 1N5406 soldered to the new lugs. It is important have the banded end of the diode towards the fuse. Radio Shack has 3 Amp diodes; there 1N5402 has a 200 Volt rating which is a comfortable margin. If the original clips are held tight, one could solder the diodes directly to them. Figure 5-12 - 2 Testing: To test the complete system, disconnect the wire to the BAT + terminal and run the engine at about 3000 RPM. You should measure about 14 Volts DC at the BAT+ terminal. You can also measure the AC voltage across the two GEN terminals, about 30 Volts AC. To check the diodes, shut the engine down and disconnect the wires to the GEN terminals. Most newer multi meters have a diode test function. Using this to check the diodes, you should measure about .5 Volts in one direction and open in the other direction ( by reversing the red and black meter leads). If you don’t have a diode test feature, measure the resistance across each diode. You should get open in one direction and with my digital meter I get about 7 Meg Ohms in the other direction and with an inexpensive analog meter I get about 7 K Ohms. 5-12 -3 Voltage Regulator It is worthy to note that this circuit is only a rectifier which converts AC to DC. There is no voltage regulation. I think that to voltage output of the Stator is limited by design so as to not over charge the battery, that is to not exceed 14.7 Volts. 5-12-4 3 Amp, One Diode, Rectifier The circuit above, Figure 5-12-3, is of a two phase stator output. If one erased to lower half of the stator and lower diode, the circuit would be single phase and one diode, very common to modern engines. The rest applies to these configurations. One could also erase the lower diode and labeled the lower stator output , AC for tractor lights. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #12 Posted January 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Lane Ranger said: I have done this conversion on several of my H=60 Tecumseh motors. Ed Stoller posted this idea online several years ago. It works well! 3 Amp, One and Two Diode, Rectifier Created April 19, 2006, 3AmpRect.wpd 5-12-0 General, Some of the older Tecumseh engines had a small stator under the flywheel and the Rectifier assembly on a board as shown in Figure 5-12-1,H 60A.jpg. Often the diodes fail and are no longer available, so this section is about how to replace the diodes with ones that are readily available, Figure 5-12-2, H60B.jpg. The circuit diagram is shown in Figure 5-12-3, H60Dia.jpg. Figure 5-12-1 Figure 5-12-2 Figure 5-12-3 5-12-1 Replacement: The original diodes were held in place with a fuse holder like clip that are riveted in place. I drilled the rivets out and replaced them with 4- 40 screws. The clip was replaced with a terminal lug shown in figure 5-12 -2. The replacement diodes are 1N5406 soldered to the new lugs. It is important have the banded end of the diode towards the fuse. Radio Shack has 3 Amp diodes; there 1N5402 has a 200 Volt rating which is a comfortable margin. If the original clips are held tight, one could solder the diodes directly to them. Figure 5-12 - 2 Testing: To test the complete system, disconnect the wire to the BAT + terminal and run the engine at about 3000 RPM. You should measure about 14 Volts DC at the BAT+ terminal. You can also measure the AC voltage across the two GEN terminals, about 30 Volts AC. To check the diodes, shut the engine down and disconnect the wires to the GEN terminals. Most newer multi meters have a diode test function. Using this to check the diodes, you should measure about .5 Volts in one direction and open in the other direction ( by reversing the red and black meter leads). If you don’t have a diode test feature, measure the resistance across each diode. You should get open in one direction and with my digital meter I get about 7 Meg Ohms in the other direction and with an inexpensive analog meter I get about 7 K Ohms. 5-12 -3 Voltage Regulator It is worthy to note that this circuit is only a rectifier which converts AC to DC. There is no voltage regulation. I think that to voltage output of the Stator is limited by design so as to not over charge the battery, that is to not exceed 14.7 Volts. 5-12-4 3 Amp, One Diode, Rectifier The circuit above, Figure 5-12-3, is of a two phase stator output. If one erased to lower half of the stator and lower diode, the circuit would be single phase and one diode, very common to modern engines. The rest applies to these configurations. One could also erase the lower diode and labeled the lower stator output , AC for tractor lights. thanks so much for the input ;it will be some time before i am able to take the trip to get the motor ;i sure will follow this information 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #13 Posted January 22, 2019 5 hours ago, upstate yank said: thanks so much for the input ;it will be some time before i am able to take the trip to get the motor ;i sure will follow this information save the trip and find kohler k181 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upstate yank 219 #14 Posted January 22, 2019 16 minutes ago, jabelman said: save the trip and find kohler k181 yep i was thinking the same thing ;thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
