NRhode 3 #1 Posted January 21, 2019 Alright guys, I am new to the wheel horse world. My father in law gifted me a 520-H as a house warming gift. At the time I knew nothing of it and neither did he as I have come to use the tractor I absolutely love it. It came with a 48” deck, plow and wheel weights I want to keep this thing for years to come. When I got it I had to mow my yard for the first time and the grass was extremely tall. So tall that I ran into a stump full speed, not surprisingly I was startled, I backed up and turned off the mower to look at the damage. And there it sat I couldn’t get it started for another 4 weeks. Turns out the 30 amp fuse was melted and inpeaces, I replaced it and later realized the block was actually melted. Stumped I called my father in law for help and he had no idea, said for the last 6 years he’s had it, it started every time. I ended up cutting the two white wires and bypassing where the fuse would be and it ran fine from there on out. With the big winter storm coming I got the plow mounted and the weights and chains on, only to turn the key this morning and nothing. It’s acting just as it did when the fuse block melted before so I redid all my connections and still nothing. After messing with it for an hour I threw in the towel and I’m hoping for some guidance now. To give a little more info, when I turn the key I hear a relay click but no crank. If I jump the seloniod it will crank. As a side note this thing can be a bear to start and I have a feeling that I should rebuild the carb and change the spark plugs to start, would any of you have recommend parts for that? Like I said I am new to wheel horses so go slow! Haha Thank you for any help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,626 #2 Posted January 21, 2019 Your fuel pump is located higher than the fuel tank and as a result the fuel can flow back to the tank while it is setting. I would suggest you get a new fuel pump and also replace the fuel lines and filter. The for the starter issue You would be best off cleaning and tightening ALL electrical connections including grounds. The fuse holder that melted down was a result of corrosion and the heat that resulted from current flowing through the resistance caused by the corrosion. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,205 #3 Posted January 21, 2019 When you redid your fuse box did you make sure that the 30 amp and 25 amp were linked together? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,050 #4 Posted January 21, 2019 that fuse holder is a simple replacement, auto parts or local hardware store, cut out the old , wire in the new, I would also replace all the fuses ,and dielectric grease all tabs before replacing , I agree with 953 nut , on the fuel pump and filtered lines, you will essentially be doing a BASELINE SERVICE to verify what you have. another thing , cutting high grass at high speed is not a good idea, your impact could have turned out much worse. I always walk over an unfamiliar lawn that I am about to cut . you have a good machine , take advantage of it ,and make it live on , good luck , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,764 #6 Posted January 21, 2019 Yes, replace the fuse block as said above. The other big issue with these tractors is the white 9 pin plug that connects the chassis to the engine, they often make a poor connection, get hot and fail. With these two items repaired as needed, the ignition switch can fail just like any tractor and safety switches can also be a pain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NRhode 3 #7 Posted January 21, 2019 1 hour ago, richmondred01 said: When you redid your fuse box did you make sure that the 30 amp and 25 amp were linked together? I did, sense then I’ve had it running for a little over two months Until yesterday 52 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Yes, replace the fuse block as said above. The other big issue with these tractors is the white 9 pin plug that connects the chassis to the engine, they often make a poor connection, get hot and fail. With these two items repaired as needed, the ignition switch can fail just like any tractor and safety switches can also be a pain. So to recap I need to replace the fuse block and go through it and clean the ground connections and check the 9 pin plug. For the 9 pin plug is the known issue with corrosion as well? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,205 #8 Posted January 21, 2019 Yes the 9 pin causes isssues. Be careful pulling apart. Also start off easy and check all the safety switches. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,902 #9 Posted January 21, 2019 My 520 had the same problem. I had to get rid of that 9 pin connector and put a better connector away from the exhaust heat. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,205 #10 Posted January 21, 2019 I did the same as squonk on two of my 520’s. If you decide to do that take your time to affirm the wires are matched. The connectors are called molex connector. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #11 Posted January 21, 2019 @NRhode to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NRhode 3 #12 Posted January 21, 2019 7 hours ago, richmondred01 said: Yes the 9 pin causes isssues. Be careful pulling apart. Also start off easy and check all the safety switches. 7 hours ago, squonk said: My 520 had the same problem. I had to get rid of that 9 pin connector and put a better connector away from the exhaust heat. Well I’d say this would be the problem eh boys? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,626 #13 Posted January 21, 2019 5 minutes ago, NRhode said: I’d say this would be the problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,205 #14 Posted January 21, 2019 Yep. There it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #15 Posted January 21, 2019 9 minutes ago, NRhode said: Well I’d say this would be the problem eh boys? I just followed the correct wiring diagrams and cut the Molex 9pin out and replaced with "bullet" connectors (heat shrink tubing and dielectric grease is your friend) and all will be good again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,902 #16 Posted January 21, 2019 I cut the wires way back and extended new wires to the other side of the tractor to get it away from the exhaust.I put the new non Molex connector on the other side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NRhode 3 #17 Posted January 26, 2019 On 1/21/2019 at 5:20 PM, 953 nut said: On 1/21/2019 at 5:30 PM, squonk said: I cut the wires way back and extended new wires to the other side of the tractor to get it away from the exhaust.I put the new non Molex connector on the other side. Well I have just replaced the fuse block and the 9 pin connector and made sure not to cross any wires and same issue as before. Turn the key and I hear a click but no cranking. Bypass the solenoid and it tries to crank. I’m stumped Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,902 #18 Posted January 26, 2019 Check the starter relay connections behind the lower dash panel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,626 #19 Posted January 26, 2019 6 minutes ago, NRhode said: Well I have just replaced the fuse block and the 9 pin connector and made sure not to cross any wires and same issue as before. Turn the key and I hear a click but no cranking. Bypass the solenoid and it tries to crank. I’m stumped Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
