Larry Chamberlain 22 #1 Posted January 20, 2019 My fuel pump dosnt pump fuel took the hose off the the carb cranked the motor over nothing coming out check the fuel hose fuel is flowing even manual pumped the pump still nothing unless I tip the fuel pump and pump little comes out any suggestion or just replace it with a new one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,339 #2 Posted January 20, 2019 Pictures and a little more information would probably help your problem. What type of engine you have . Could be something as simple as a clogged fuel line or maybe I shut off not working properly . to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkg520 527 #3 Posted January 20, 2019 I just went through the same problem with my 1978 C81. I rebuilt the original pump and all is well. The cost was $30.00 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #4 Posted January 20, 2019 K301 fuel line is not clogged brand new fuel shut off flows good before pump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #5 Posted January 20, 2019 I ordered a new one will give it a shot another question how much is a motor suppose to smoke on a fresh rebuild Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #6 Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Larry Chamberlain said: I ordered a new one will give it a shot another question how much is a motor suppose to smoke on a fresh rebuild Improper cylinder honing will prolong seating of the piston rings. Cylinder Bore Refinishing https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/cylinder-bore-refinishing Cylinder bore refinishing is extremely important in the engine rebuild process. There are some basic rules and facts that will prevent common problems incurred when deglazing or refinishing cylinders. Cross Hatch Angles The correct angle for cross hatch lines to intersect is approximately 45 degrees. Too steep an angle promotes oil migration down the cylinder resulting in a thin oil film, which can cause ring and cylinder scuffling. Too flat a cross hatch angle can hold excess oil which conversely causes thicker oil films, which the piston rings will ride up on or hydroplane. Excessive oil consumption will result. The diagrams will illustrate cross hatch angles. Honing Methods Two basic systems are used to refinish cylinder walls either rigid stones or a flexible brush. Correct cylinder finishes can be achieved with either system if used correctly. In all cases the manufacturers' instructions must be followed with respect to: Stone grit Honing oil Stone pressure (Automatic equipment) The vertical speed of the brush or hone in the cylinder is what causes the cross hatch angle on the surface of the cylinder wall. Too slow a vertical speed causes too flat an angle, while too rapid up and down motion of the hone or brush causes too steep an intersecting angle. In the case of hand honing it will be necessary for the operator to experiment to learn the proper up and down movement in relation to the rotating speed of the one to produce proper cross hatch angle. Cylinder Roughness Substantial controversy exists on the correct cylinder roughness for proper seating of piston rings, whether chrome, moly, or plain cast iron. It has been our experience that the use of 220-280 grit stones and achieving proper cross hatch angle produces a finish compatible to all three types of the above rings. Cylinder Cleaning The single most critical factor of any cylinder refinishing job is the cleaning of that cylinder after the honing operation. It can be stated, pistons, rings, and cylinder bores will forgive slight variations in roughness, cross hatch angle, etc. No engine component will tolerate dirt! Honing cylinders leaves two types of "dirt" on the cylinder wall; honing stone residue and cast iron dust. If not removed before the engine is reassembled, the world’s finest lapping compound is waiting to destroy all the hard work of assembly the instant the engine is started. Proper cylinder cleaning consists of a thorough scrubbing of the block with hot, soapy water taking care to clean the surface under the cylinder facing the crankcase. Rinse with hot water, dry, and lightly oil to prevent rust. For detailed honing questions it is wise to contact the manufacturer of your specific equipment. They are experts in metal finishing and of course completely understand their own equipment. In general if the practices above are used excellent engine performance will result. Edited January 20, 2019 by bcgold 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #7 Posted January 20, 2019 Bon Ami is sometimes used to seat in stubborn piston rings.https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=crawlers&th=69471> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #8 Posted January 21, 2019 The 10 over was done by a very good machinist he builds racing motors for a living Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,553 #9 Posted January 21, 2019 Running synthetic oil in a fresh Kohler rebuild is a no-no. Rings will never seat. Maybe that's the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #10 Posted January 21, 2019 2 hours ago, Larry Chamberlain said: The 10 over was done by a very good machinist he builds racing motors for a living Then your inquiry's should be directed to the builder who is intimately acquainted with the engine. I once purchased a fresh 350 Chevy engine from a machinist who at the time of the A.V.R.O. he was employed as a machinist. He had installed standard connecting rod bearings on a crankshaft that had been ground 0.010. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avro_Canada_CF-105_Arrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
