Single screw vs dual screw hubs

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Took a look at my hubs tonight while I was in the garage working on my K321S for my 71 Bronco. I noticed they are single screw hubs, which I would assume are correct for my year.

 

I've read on other threads that the second set screw is good to have to help prevent issues with the key in the axle.

 

Should I be concerned with my single screw hubs? Or perhaps I should ask my uncle for a favor and have him drill & tap the hubs on his Bridgeport for the second screw?

[JAinVA 4,619]

If you have no issues after over 35 years then I wouldn't pull the hubs for just adding another setscrew.If you pull the hubs to replace the transaxle seals it might be a good time to add additional setscrews.JMHO Luck,JAinVA

[71_Bronco 1,072]

9 hours ago, JAinVA said:

If you have no issues after over 35 years then I wouldn't pull the hubs for just adding another setscrew.If you pull the hubs to replace the transaxle seals it might be a good time to add additional setscrews.JMHO Luck,JAinVA

 

I was thinking about pulling them to change the seals to be on the safe side, they dont leak now that I know of. I also was thinking about taking them off just to inspect the keys and make sure everything is okay.

 

The seals are still available it looks like (at least from Parts Tree, part number 6449). Not sure how difficult those will be to change though.

[JAinVA 4,619]

Steveasaurus has bearing and seal cross information in the transmission section.This gives WH part numbers and there industry equivalents.Go there and you will be able to get your parts at a local NAPA. The seals aren't hard to change but getting the hubs off can be.The last ones I did took all a 10 ton porta power had to give.

[ebinmaine 62,978]

14 hours ago, JAinVA said:

If you have no issues after over 35 years then I wouldn't pull the hubs for just adding another setscrew.If you pull the hubs to replace the transaxle seals it might be a good time to add additional setscrews.JMHO Luck,JAinVA

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Good advice there.

 

If your key way is wallowed out at all that's a good reason enough to go in there.

If your seals are leaking that's a good enough reason to go in there.

if they look and feel okay and you don't actually have a genuine specific reason to remove them it might be best to just leave them on.

 

They can be a real live All American booger head to take off.

 

I've found that a combination of penetrating oil, heat, using a hub for a puller, and above all... Patience... Works.

 

check out the instructional section and the videos that Stevasaurus has made. Wicked incredibly helpful.

 

 

[JAinVA 4,619]

I was fortunate enough to have a freed up hub to use to pull the others with.Five  long 3/8" all thread rods and nuts connect the tractor hub and the freed hub.A 10 ton porta power makes quick work out of removing the hubs.The nose of the 10 ton ram just fits into the 1 1/8" hub bore.I am still trying to come up with a variation of this set up for the hubs that have stud bolts.

[ebinmaine 62,978]

32 minutes ago, JAinVA said:

.I am still trying to come up with a variation of this set up for the hubs that have stud bolts.

Jim, which hubs have stud bolts?

Is this a Wheelhorse thing or on another make?

 

Just curious. Hadn't seen one yet.

[pfrederi 17,129]

Some of us have converted using Bob Maynards kit.  Makes swapping wheels a lot easier.

 

 

[19richie66 16,880]

Thats the ticket👍

[JAinVA 4,619]

Exactly.I did the swap on the 312 custom and as get to them they all get studs.