who am I, help

[SimonC 35]

7 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

The 1-6041 is a 1969 model. There are places online including Toro that thinks it is a 1970 model.

Click on the picture

Garry

This is so 1970, this thing had a cigar lighter ... according to the manual

[Achto 26,502]

The dash on my 1968 Raider 12 after installing a new decal on it. The light switch next to the lighter is an add on. The volt meter under the dash is also an add on.

 

A good source for replacement decals https://www.redoyourhorse.com/.

This is where I get all my  decals from.

 

[SimonC 35]

2 minutes ago, Achto said:

The dash on my 1968 Raider 12 after installing a new decal on it. The light switch next to the lighter is an add on. The volt meter under the dash is also an add on.

 

A good source for replacement decals https://www.redoyourhorse.com/.

This is where I get all my  decals from.

 

this looks pretty clean ! thank you !  It seems like I've got too many holes on mine lol.

 

thanks

[SimonC 35]

3 hours ago, WHX20 said:

!/4-20 course thread on those.

A piece of hardware cloth properly fitted would work.

 

There should be an idle adjust screw somewhere near the top throttle linkage to adjust.

thanks, I'll look for it.

 

[SimonC 35]

so this thread is already longer than I expected.

 

you guys have been awesome at helping out.  

 

Just to summarize what questions I've got left for now for anyone to chime in: 

• I read somewhere that when buying these old hh100 I should immediately replace the carb, true/false, isn't a good cleaning enough ?

Achto, can you take a picture of your parking brake ? think mine is missing and I'll like to get a view on what it would look like outside of a exploded part diagram.

 

thanks

[Achto 26,502]

17 minutes ago, SimonC said:

I read somewhere that when buying these old hh100 I should immediately replace the carb, true/false, isn't a good cleaning enough ?

 

It is common for the Techy carbs to be just plain worn out. Specially at the butterfly shaft. If you can get yours to perform well then I would keep it, if not there are many new ones available on Ebay for under $30 U.S. When ordering look the pictures over well to ensure that every thing looks the same as yours.

 

I will get you a picture of my parking brake later on today.

Edited September 12, 2018 by Achto

[SimonC 35]

more stuff to the electrical mistery.. 

 

took the dash off (at least I tried) and there is an interesting box, wondering if that might be the replacement for the original AC to DC converter 

 

[Achto 26,502]

What you have there is the Starter solenoid. Power is sent from the key switch in the start position to a magnet in the solenoid. when powered up the magnet pulls a switch closed and sends power to the starter motor to turn it on. This takes the heavy power draw off of your ignition switch.

 

I also found a picture of my parking brake. While stepping on the brake you move the silver lever to lock against the band to hold the brake on.

 

[SimonC 35]

clearly someone had the brilliant idea to move this where the original ignition should be .. and the wire coming from the battery is what's preventing me from taking the dash panel away.  

 

that starter solenoid is not on the wiring diagram .. 

 

I'll have to prioritize what I work on it seems, the pile is getting thick

 

 

[pfrederi 17,128]

As to the finned box ...voltage regulator.  There should be three wires coming from the engine two carry AC voltage to the regulator where it is converted to DC and then to the ignition switch.  There it feeds the battery as needed  when the engine is running.  The third wire is the kill for the solid state ignition.  That goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. BE VERY CAREFUL never apply any voltage to that wire it will fry your ignition module a very expensive mistake!!.

 

The battery and the DC system only run the starter motor and any lights.  The engine needs no juice to run. Hence you can charge up teh battery and start it many many time before the battery goes dead.

[pfrederi 17,128]

11 minutes ago, SimonC said:

clearly someone had the brilliant idea to move this where the original ignition should be .. and the wire coming from the battery is what's preventing me from taking the dash panel away.  

 

that starter solenoid is not on the wiring diagram .. 

 

I'll have to prioritize what I work on it seems, the pile is getting thick

 

 

 

 

 

Originally there was no solenoid.  The ignition switch was a heavy duty unit that fed the starter directly.  They are expensive and when it failed some one used a common cheap light duty switch and added the solenoid 

 

Suggestion rip everything out and start over.  These are simple electrical systems you do not need to be a laser rocket scientist.  it can be easier to start over than to figure what some PO did...

Edited September 12, 2018 by pfrederi

[WHX?? 46,692]

37 minutes ago, SimonC said:

the pile is getting thick

Welcome to our world. Don't worry we have tractors come in in worse shape than yours. The good news is most issues can be fixed with some (hopefully enjoyable) work.

 

Another pic of that brake setup.

[SimonC 35]

thank you ! 

 

btw, one of my front wheel is a tad "off camber".  Would the normal cause be the spindle or there's something else to look at ? 

 

thanks again !

[SimonC 35]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

As to the finned box ...voltage regulator.  There should be three wires coming from the engine two carry AC voltage to the regulator where it is converted to DC and then to the ignition switch.  There it feeds the battery as needed  when the engine is running.  The third wire is the kill for the solid state ignition.  That goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. BE VERY CAREFUL never apply any voltage to that wire it will fry your ignition module a very expensive mistake!!.

 

The battery and the DC system only run the starter motor and any lights.  The engine needs no juice to run. Hence you can charge up teh battery and start it many many time before the battery goes dead.

I can't seem to find the part number for the regulator.  I'm not going to assume it's dead without testing, but I'd still like to look around at how much I'm looking at and availability in Canada if I need one.  plugging my charger for the time being is ok, but long term I'd want this back how it should.

 

thanks

[Achto 26,502]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Originally there was no solenoid.  The ignition switch was a heavy duty unit that fed the starter directly.  They are expensive and when it failed some one used a common cheap light duty switch and added the solenoid 

 

This change was done on my Raider also. The previous owner did a better job though, in fact I thought it to be factory with a Bendix style starter. The two Phillips head bolts to the left of the voltmeter hold my starter solenoid in place.

[Achto 26,502]

37 minutes ago, SimonC said:

I can't seem to find the part number for the regulator.

 

Tecumseh number for the regulator is 610749. it is discontinued but there are low priced aftermarket replacements. Check this site out for info. I would think that you could find one in the same price range. http://www.psep.biz/store/tecumseh_voltage_regulators.htm

 

[pfrederi 17,128]

Search Ebay  610749 after market knock offs from $15

[SimonC 35]

1 hour ago, SimonC said:

thank you ! 

 

btw, one of my front wheel is a tad "off camber".  Would the normal cause be the spindle or there's something else to look at ? 

 

thanks again !

guess it doesn't hurt to take it appart and see how bad this is.  probably never saw the end of a grease gun nozzle

[Chris G 3,274]

Welcome to red square and congrats on the new to you tractor! Definitely should find all the info needed here. 

[stevasaurus 22,229]

Welcome to Red Square !!  I going to go along with Garry about your horse being a 1969 Raider 10    1-6041.  I have paper work that shows both 69 and 70, but I think the transmission really says what is going on.  Your transmission, with your model number, is a #5071.  This a 10 pinion limited slip differential that is a 6 speed transmission.  The 1970's went to the #5073 transmissions.  They are basically the same transmission, but the model number of the horse and transmission shout 1969.

   Question for the experts. If your engine was replaced, is it possible the replacement is not a stator type engine???    If you do not have 2 wires coming out from behind the fly wheel...would you have points and condensor??  

   For some reason, most horses look like they have front wheels that need alignment.  We may have a vendor that has the tie rods that are adjustable to straighten out the look. 

[Achto 26,502]

6 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Question for the experts. If your engine was replaced, is it possible the replacement is not a stator type engine?

 

With the new tag showing the engine as a replacement short block, I would think that the charging system and ignition system from the original engine would have had to be installed on to the new block.

Edited September 12, 2018 by Achto

[WHX?? 46,692]

11 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

possible the replacement is not a stator type engine??? 

Good point Steve, is it not possible the PO (previous owner Simon ) was just using the Battery for starting and lights and just manual charging the battery? Maybe the Tecumseh experts can shed some light on this motors ignition.

 

Another good point Dan

The way that poor girl has been worked over would it be possible to just put a magneto on the short block and again not worry about charging?

Edited September 12, 2018 by WHX20

[pfrederi 17,128]

I agree with Achto.  A short Block would not have had a Solid state module nor flywheel nor stator.  Hard to believe they would have removed that and tried to put on a different ignition  system...but stranger things have happened,

 

Let me reiterate do not do anything that might fry the Solid state module.  i would pull the blower housing and see what is in there....

[SimonC 35]

1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

I agree with Achto.  A short Block would not have had a Solid state module nor flywheel nor stator.  Hard to believe they would have removed that and tried to put on a different ignition  system...but stranger things have happened,

 

Let me reiterate do not do anything that might fry the Solid state module.  i would pull the blower housing and see what is in there....

wouldn't the first test to check for voltage at the battery pole with/without the engine running to confirm if it gets a charge anyway ?  Clearly if I get enough voltage to charge without the original rectifier being hooked up, it'll justify further investigation.

[WHX?? 46,692]

Check for those wires Steve mentioned. Even if there I would pull the flywheel if anything to get it on a bench to make it easier to get those screws out.