Spark plug gap

[Paul Boy 31]

Was able to pick up a 1977 B80. Engine turns over but will not start. I want to put a new plug in and give it another try. Can someone tell me what to gap the plug at? Appreciate your help.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,705]

Spark plug gap .025".

If the unit has been idle for a period of time clean the points. They will oxidize just enough to prevent the contacts from making electrical contact.

A handy operator manual

Garry

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Welcome to Redsqure 

If it's been sitting for a long time the fuel system probably needs a good cleaning. When the carburetor sits with gas in it the gas will gum up the jets. You may have to pull the carb and soak it to get all the junk out. 

[Paul Boy 31]

Gave the carb a good cleaning yesterday. I think it should be okay. Want to put in a new spark plug as it looks fouled

[Paul Boy 31]

Thank you Garry. I will get this done tomorrow. Tractor looks to be in good condition so don't think its too much.

[KC9KAS 4,744]

@Paul Boy  to  and 

[ebinmaine 74,407]

3 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

@Paul Boy  to  and 

 

Keep us posted.

 

[Paul Boy 31]

• Okay, cleaned points this morning and got it started but it runs only a few seconds and cuts right off again. Is it possible that the carburetor is still dirty?  It seems like the throttle adjusts itself and then cuts out. I checked for a gas shutoff and there is none. I had to use starting fluid after the first couple of tries. I am kind of wondering what else could be going on. Anyone have any ideas?

[RandyLittrell 3,942]

Best thing to do is, pull the tank and carb, clean it all and put new line on. It's the number one thing that causes them to not run right. And obviously check points while you are doing it.

[ebinmaine 74,407]

49 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

....... clean it all and PUT NEW LINE ON.....................

. And obviously check points....

 

I suppose most or even all of us have ignored that one from time to time hoping it would just get better and we wouldn't have to mess around with the lines. I know I've done it. A degraded rubber line can look perfectly fine on the outside and be absolute garbage on the inside.

 

I've personally switched all of my tractor and small engines over to the yellow or blue line you can see right through.

 

 

1 hour ago, Paul Boy said:

• . Is it possible that the carburetor is still dirty? 

 

I know on my 1974 b80 and also on my 1977 c - 160 there was The Identical plastic tank with the identical twist to shut off on the bottom of the tank. Double check that some previous owner has not eliminated that.

 

It's possible that if you have already replaced the fuel lines, whatever is coming out of the tank, which may not be original, either isn't big enough or is clogged up.

 

Randy had the perfect idea with taking all of it off and cleaning all of it.

 

 

And when you get done with all of this and you get that tractor running again, please do your best to switch over to non-ethanol gas. It's very very highly likely that ethanol is what is causing all of the problems you're dealing with right now.

 

[Paul Boy 31]

1. Thank you to all of you for your help. Removed the carb again this afternoon and gave it a second cleaning. Started it right up and it purrs like a kitten. Started raining so drove it inside and will put the hood back on tomorrow.

I also have a Charger 10 automatic that we just finished a restore on. Its developed a terrible whine when we try to start it. Engine turns over great but that noise makes me very nervous that something else is happening here. It wants to start but doesn't. Hoping that this is something that can be fixed. Anyone ever have this issue with a Charger 10?

[pfrederi 18,910]

Kohler or Tecumseh  Charger 10s had both.  Are you cranking it with the hydro disengaged (lever pulled up)???  

[Paul Boy 31]

It has a Kohler engine and the engine sounded fine when the guy I bought it from had it running when we looked at it.  Went back the next night and he said he could not get it started. He also said that the valve under the seat was frozen and that it locks the rear wheels. We took a chance and got it home and were able to free up the tow valve. I believe its still free as it can be pushed by hand now. Would it make a difference if it were free when going to start it? I am new at this type of transmission and really hope its not too serious a problem.

[pfrederi 18,910]

Engines do not normally whine but hydros can.  When you are cranking the engine do you have the handle pulled up (red outine) or down Blue.  You want it up to disengage the hydro...

[Paul Boy 31]

Mine is somewhat different than your s appears to be. Its pouring here again today but I took a quick photo. It seems to be in the forward position. I have a plastic bag over the seat so that red that you see going toward the seat is the tie. Does the position of this lever make a difference or maybe cause the problem I described?  The plate at the center was so rusted that it could not be read.

[pfrederi 18,910]

Interesting I have 6 Chargers none have that style engagement/parking Lever...In any event pulled up should take the tension off of the drive belt.  I am wondering if the whine is from the hydro and the drag from it is keeping your engine from starting.  Does the drive belt move while you are cranking the engine?  Does the engine seem to crank with good speed???

[Paul Boy 31]

1. It was sold as a1972 Charger 10. Has a sundstrand transmission. Not sure if the drive belt moves but the engine seems to have a good amount of crank speed but makes this terrible loud high pitched sound while the engine is turning over.

[pfrederi 18,910]

Sounds can be hard...Could be the starter motor, can you figure where the sound is loudest Flywheel side, PTO side...

[Paul Boy 31]

To me, it sounds like the flywheel side. I can't really describe the sound but its loud and shrill and seems to occur once you turn the key to start. I am going to try to look into the sound further tomorrow as its supposed to clear and be sunny at least part of the day.

[pfrederi 18,910]

See if the air shroud is bent anywhere it may be rubbing on the flywheel screen.  also make sure the starter motor bolts are tight.  Does the engine finally start ?  Then does the sound go away??  The engine it self isn't turning that fast when cranking to make shrill sounds...but the starter motor is..could be a bendix issue or a bad starter motor

[Paul Boy 31]

Is a starter motor expensive to replace? How much difficulty is involved in replacing it?

[Sarge 3,470]

The picture you showed of the parking brake/hydro lever is in the engaged position - it should be pulled straight up to disengage it when starting/warming the engine. If you start it with the lever in the engaged position and the direction control is not in the center neutral position that tractor will take off unexpectedly.

 

Download the Kohler engine manual - go through the rebuild section for the starter to troubleshoot the noise. My 16 Auto has one of the loudest starters I've heard in years, works fine but it is really loud. Needs a bushing kit, but for now a lack of time is keeping it as-is. Removing the starter is easy - just be sure to remove the negative battery cable first to avoid a bad short/fire. Just a couple of bolts, and it's out after removing the cable. 

 

Sarge