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5.0_2011

Work Horse 700 transmission issue

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5.0_2011

My workhorse 700 won’t shift into 3rd. What would cause this issue? All other gears work fine. 

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gwest_ca

If you rock the tractor back and forth with the engine not running will it go into 3rd that way? There are no syncros in these models so the straight cut gears can struggle to mesh. If the engine is running and it won't go into gear it is common to leave the shifter in neutral and let the clutch out just enough to turn the gears a bit so they align - push the pedal down again and try to shift..

 

Have you had the shifter out of the transmission? There is a donut on the shifter that the dog-point set screw pivots in. The hole the screw dog-point enters is shared with a roll pin that secures the donut to the shifter from the back side. If that roll pin shears it will allow the shifter to turn in the donut and some for the shift action is lost to the shifter rotating instead of sliding the shift forks.

Some donuts are welded to the shifter and those will not experience the above problem.

 

Garry

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5.0_2011

It won’t engage even with the engine off. I haven’t had the shifter out yet. Is it possible to take it out and access the set screw and doughnut without disassembling the tranny? 

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gwest_ca

The boot around the shifter should be hooked over the set screw at the front of the shifter. Put the shifter into neutral. Pull the boot up. Back off the 1/4" jamb nut and using an Allen wrench back the screw out about 1/8". Pull the shifter straight out. Look down the hole and see how the shifter tabs are centered forming a rectangular hole where the shifter goes into the shift rails. That is neutral and how they should be when you put the shifter back together. 

 

There are 2 shift rails the shifter slides left or right of center which is neutral. The front one is rev and 1st. The rear one is 2nd and 3rd. Looking at them will give you an understanding of how it works. You can use a long screw driver to shift gears. Try 3rd - slide the rear rail to the right. The front rail tabs must be centered in the hole (neutral) when shifting the rear rail. Leave the rear rail in neutral (tabs centered) and you can shift the front rail left or right. Just make sure both rails are centered (neutral) when you put the shifter back in.

 

Reason I explained this is it is possible to be in 2 gears at once which locks up the transmission. Wondering if that is what has happened. Placing both rails in neutral and reinstalling the shifter will correct it. To prevent that from happening shift slow until we can explain it.

 

Garry

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5.0_2011

Thanks Garry I’ll give that a try. I appreciate it a lot 

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stevasaurus

Did you have this problem before you changed the oil???  :think:

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5.0_2011

I honestly didn’t drive it before I changed the oil. I first got it drivable this past weekend. Prior to running it I drained it and it was full of water. The original boot was shot so I replaced it and added oil and attempted to go through the gears and that’s when I noticed it.

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stevasaurus

OK...I would open up the trans with what you said.  The shift forks in your trans sit up high in the case...even if they were not in the water, those shift forks could rust because of condensation.  I'm sure your trans is savable.  Usually, a wire wheel will clean up the shafts and gears, light sand blasting works and electrolysis with the wire wheel or sand blasting will do things that are really rusted. 

    I was able to save this one with electrolysis.  :)  This one would not shift either.

1.5.JPG

 

I doubt yours is this bad, but it does show why you maybe can't shift into gear.  Do not force the shifter.  You might try...drain the oil...fill the trans to the top with diesel (put a pan under the trans to catch any drips)...let set a few days.  Gently try to shift once in a while.  I would still open it and clean it out.  :occasion-xmas:

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5.0_2011

thanks stevasaures. I appreciate your input on this. I will give it a try. I’ll replace the seals in it while I’m at it if I’m goin this far. 

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