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1973Auto

12 hp K301 No Spark

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Had the horse pushing dirt. Doing fine then started to spit and sputter.  Stalls out. Figured it was dirty carb or such. Did the usual fuel/carb once over. Carb cleaner got it going briefly then out. Checked the plug on the block turner over, didn't see Spark. Got another spark plug no spark. Had another K301 in the barn using for parts. Changed coil. No spark. Changed cylinoid no spark. Changed points no spark. New spark plug no spark.  The only thing did not change out was the coil/plug wire. So where and how do I test for spark with a meter and what do I set the meter at. Electrical not my strong suit. Thanks all!!!!✌:thanks:

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Set the meter on the DC volts scale next higher than 12.     Put positive (red) lead on the coil + and the negative (black) lead on the battery negative post.

Turn the switch to the on position.  You must have 12VDC to the coil.   If you do not have 12VDC, no new coil, points, condenser, spark plug, or spark plug wire will solve the problem.

Lack of voltage to the coil could be caused by corroded connections at the battery or ignition switch, a bad battery, or a broken wire.

 

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You never mentioned the condenser. It is the small tubular device connected to the "-" side of the ignition coil. If the condenser has shorted out it will prevent the coil from producing a spark.

For testing purposes you can remove the condenser wire from the coil. With the key on (presuming the 12 volts DC is on the "+" side) you can open and close the points with a nonconductor (plastic or wood) and there should be a spark at the points. Clean and double check the points gap to be sure they are closed the majority of the time and only open momentarily to about .019".

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Both of the above and if no juice to the coil, then check any safety switches if fitted. 

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A 1973 Auto (no name) should only have a safety switch on the PTO lever.  That switch is in the ignition circuit and could prevent voltage from reaching the coil if it is not functioning properly.

 

Here is the link to your tractors wiring diagram.

 

 

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Thanks All.  I will try these out tonight. Hopefully I just have a bad connection someplace, In regards to 953 nut this is what the condenser looks like. Took this pic off ebay.

Points Condenser fits Kohler K91 K141 K161 K181 K241 K301 K321 K341

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Well I do have 12 volts going to the coil. But....that's where I scratched my head and said....time for a beer. So instead of trying o figure out if it's the coil, wire etc I think I will buy the coil kit that is on eBay for $70. Coil, point, wire, condenser and plug. What do you fine folks think????:bow-blue::USA::USA::USA:

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The problems I have with replacing all the ignition components at the same time is;

1. you will never know which part caused the problem

2. new components do not always function properly

 

Having said that, I understand not everyone has the luxury  of being able to swap out a component from a running tractor to find the problem

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I've read through all the posts and I don't think anyone mentioned looking at the points with the cover off to see if they are opening at all. There is a rod (the name escapes me) that rides on the cam to open the points.

Pull the spark plug turn over the engine by hand and see if there opening. If they open and close then move on to electrical.

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Faulty ignition switch? Kill wire rubbed through and grounding frame? Other possibilities? Buying parts without a diagnosis usually ends in frustration.

For example:

I was at the junkyard, recently, and I saw a Durango with all brand new coils, plugs, throttle body, and all the sensors on the top of the engine. Someone was trying to get it running right before scrapping it. I opened the valve cover and found two rocker arms laying loose. That particular engine is known for throwing rocker arms off. Someone spent over $700 for parts on the top of that engine without a diagnosis and missed a problem they could have fixed for free.

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On 7/12/2018 at 9:33 PM, BOB ELLISON said:

I've read through all the posts and I don't think anyone mentioned looking at the points with the cover off to see if they are opening at all. There is a rod (the name escapes me) that rides on the cam to open the points.

Pull the spark plug turn over the engine by hand and see if there opening. If they open and close then move on to electrical.

 

 

I'm not sure what the original poster of this topic ever ended up doing but I just want you guys to know that I appreciate your answers and input here.

My Patriot horse. B80.

Started it this morning. Ran fine. Started turning it around to compact some soil with the heavy weight of the tractor and it just died like I had shut off the key.

Ran through the battery of Diagnostics that you guys have listed and eventually narrowed it down to a bad coil.

I took a coil out of the pile of auction parts and tested it and then put it on the tractor and it started right up!

 

:handgestures-thumbupright:

 

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