C-160 8 speed

[dodge78 94]

I started tearing into the Kohler tonight. I wanted to get the crank out but I got stuck on one set screw holding the clutch plate on. The clutch material looks pretty thin, about 1/64 of an inch left. Is there supposed to be a bolt in the end of this shaft?

Here are some shots of the crank.

You can see where the valve was hitting the carbon buildup in the upper corner here.

Here is how I delt with those pesky screws somebody was kind enough to screw up. I took the dremel and cut flats on each side. I found a wrench that fit and they came right out. Too bad I cant do that with the set screw.

More as I progess.

[past7971 0]

The bolt/stud in the center of crankshaft is part of manual PTO set-up and should have a thrust bearing, washers and spring between crank and PTO pulley to help push pulley into PTO clutch brake when disengaged to stop attachment from spinning. If these parts were missing...stud-104842, thrust bearing-9862, thrust washer (2 needed)-7947, and spring-104841 were still available from any local Toro dealer last time I checked. If PTO brake is worn/gone, it is 104730. Everything will still work as needed without these installed except attachment takes longer to slow to stop. Take care--Paul

[dodge78 94]

Thanks Paul, the part numbers helped in locating the part in the diagram. It look like I will need all of the parts you listed.

I got the set screw out, its amazing how many new words you can think of when something frustrates you.

Do these look okay?

I am not sure what new ones are supposed to look like. The Exhaust looks like it will be a real pain to get off.

[kj4kicks 154]

The Exhaust looks like it will be a real pain to get off.

There is no need to remove that exhaust nipple. You'll open up a can of worms for sure.

[past7971 0]

I agree with Eldon on exhaust nipple and would leave it alone. If repainting is planned--paint nipple FIRST with a hi-temp engine paint (I use low-gloss black) and mask it off before painting the block red for a nicer appearance. I take it you are planning to remove drive pulley too??? Clean the shaft up first with some sandpaper and use some WD-40/PB Blaster to make life easier. If you happen to have an old PTO clutch disc laying around---bolt it on and use puller on it to help prevent breaking cast pulley. Your parts look usable with some cleanup although I dont notice slot in PTO crank stud. Most likely, drive pulley slid back on shaft and stud end rubbed PTO pulley a little which might explain why spring assembly was missing. I dont remember measurement right off top of my head but back of drive pulley needs to be about 1/2-3/4" from block for everything to work correctly.

[dodge78 94]

The pulley came off pretty easy, but was tight to the block. Pulling the bearing plate has me worried. The manual says to use a puller on it but the only holes available are where the stator bolts go.

[past7971 0]

Shouldn't need one. After removing four attaching bolts, tap on it close to block and it should come off without any destruction. Try to hold the output shaft of crankshaft while doing this and alternate tapping from the front and back sides of block to prevent binding. This is how I've done them and haven't broke/cracked one yet.

[dodge78 94]

Thats good to know. I have never had one of these apart before.

[dodge78 94]

I have the engine dismantled. Here are pictures of the crank. I cleand off some of the aluminum and measured 1.4973

Here are some really big pictures,

http://h1.ripway.com/dopowa76/HPIM0439.JPG

http://h1.ripway.com/dopowa76/HPIM0440.JPG

[past7971 0]

Just a suggestion here and trust me, I'm not a fan of Ebay but if you seach Wheel Horse--there is a nice standard K341 crank and the matching rod/piston being sold along with many other parts you might need. Might get off a lot cheaper than sending yours out to machine shop and buying new rod. I've bought engine items like this from that seller before and personally have had good luck. Crankpin should be 1.5000 to 1.4995 with max wear at 1.4990.

[buckrancher 2,694]

You can clean the alum. off the crank with mir acid .the acid will

eat the alum off . Then you can get a good measurement on the crank journal

if the crank is undersize it can be turned and you can buy a -.01 under

rod from your local dealer

:thumbs:

[dodge78 94]

The local machinist was on vacation last week, so monday I will see what he can do for me. One question is, should I have it balanced or will it not make any difference?

I had some time to look over the tractor since it was warm out today. There are a lot of bolts missing and loose. There were three of six bolts holding the front of the loader on, the bolts on the rear axle for the loader are loose. The three bolts holding the front axel, tac and bracing for the loader were just about out. The weight box did not have any bolts in it but its rusted in pretty good and is not coming out without a fight. After tightening the front axle bolts, it sits crooked and moves too much, but the pin fits pretty good in he axel. The arm on the left spindle is loose and need to be rewelded. The bearings in the wheels are shot. There are 5 bolts missing under the seat for the floor pans. I dont know if someone was going to part it out or if its been neglected that much.

The tie rods are shot but I am thinking of getting these:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=23

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=2800

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=1679

should make a good adjustable tie rod.

Hopefully the one broken hose will get fixed tomorrow so I can rig up a motor to the hydralic pump to check out the loader.

More as I progess.

[dodge78 94]

I got the hose fixed today for the loader. I then proceeded to rig up an electric motor to the pump and make a mess. It didnt work so thinking it was low, I put some oil in it, too much. I put the pump on the other way and started it up. It burped and made more of a mess because I neglected to put the cap back on. But it worked. The belt was not real tight but it made every thing move.

[dodge78 94]

Here is how I rigged up the pump for the loader testing and flushing. I ran the rams about ten times each to get the air out.

Here is what came out after the first flush. I am thinking I need to flush the system a couple of more times.

Here is my work bench

I cleaned all of the pins and holes but I need to find two pins for the bottom of the bucket. It seems that I got a lot done but not a lot of progress.

[past7971 0]

Dont know if you have a local TSC store, but in the hardware section they usually have some sliding bins with screws, bushings, pins and other "goodies" that can be useful when fixing one up. They have 3/4" shim/washers in two different thicknesses that I've found work great in taking out any front axle pin or front spindle/axle play. Also, back in the tractor parts section there is a bunch of pins, clips and more "goodies" you might want to check out. Looks like you have a nice project going there . I wish I had a loader for one of mine. I kept looking but they usually cost so much that I ended up buying an old Fordson Major Diesel farm tractor with front end loader and backhoe for slightly more than what most people wanted for just a loader.

[dodge78 94]

I went to Farm and Fleet and picked up 2 pins I needed. But they have a .485 inch hole in them for the hold pin. The originals have a 1/4 inch hole in them. I thought I could get a 1/2 inch roll pin to make the hole smaller but that might be easier said than done.

The TSC stores are 45 min, 55 min and 75 min from me but I dont know which one would be the best one to go to. Saturday its supposed to rain so I might get to two of them.

[dodge78 94]

I was working on the front axle and noticed that it is not square to the frame.

I twisted the front plate.

And it is still not square. Looks like the ruler is not quite in the right spot.

I put mine drywall square across the front and marked the spots where I could see light under it. It was only about 1/32 of an inch at the farthest point.

Are they usually pretty square?

[dodge78 94]

After some minor troubles and some wiring issues, the engine runs. It idles well but if i give it some gas, I have to put the choke on a little to keep it running.

The tractor has a lot of rattles in it. I know since some of the linkages and it missing a few bolts will cause some of it, but the steering column is the biggest offender.

I still need to find a couple of brackets, a clutch switch and a head tin.

[dodge78 94]

Saturday I changed the tranny fluid and it looked just as bad as the loader fluid. I refilled it with 85-140 type 5 fluid and when the time comes ( hopefully soon ) I will run it up and down the alley a few times and change it again.

I spent some time figuring out how the loader pump bracket is supposed to be and when the pto bracket shows up I came make it. I spent sunday straightening out belt guides on the tensioner and the cover for the clutch. Somebody really didnt like them, they were bent in more ways than can be imagined. Now the belt stops when the clutch is pushed in. Saturday I started the tractor with it in first gear with the brake locked on and it almost walked off the truck.

I need to figure out what I can do with the seat to raise it up and move it back some. I also need to find some bumper replacements on the bottom of the fenders.

[dodge78 94]

Well after 4 attemps, I final got the correct pto bracket. I made a pump bracket.

I figured out a way to raise the seat. Flip the rear bracket and put some 3/4" pipe unions with washers, moves it up about 1 1/2". I'm not sure if I like it yet, good height but I think I want it back a little.

I made a new wiring harness and added a fuse off of the battery.

While digging around I found a third brake light from some spoiler that came off a car I am debating on using.