pfrederi 17,148 #1 Posted April 27, 2018 Rolled out my Airborne Commando yesterday http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/74626-airborne-commando-wheel-horse/?tab=comments#comment-718379 Started and ran great. Couple minor things to adjust today and put air cleaner on. Used a cheap Chinese carb that ran well but they never tapped the side holes for the air cleaner bracket. Did that then found the front holes which were tapped are tapped for metric. I have lot of nuts and bolts but no 4/10mm. (Another McMaster order) Other frustration the engine I am using came from a C-81 and has the exhaust nipple that is not threaded on the end. Would love to use the C-81 muffler but it won't fit under a Commando hood and will have to use a pepper pot that needs a threaded end nipple. OK I will pull the nipple that is on there...We all know how much fun that can be. Spent 1 whole week squirting it a few times a day with In-Force BG and whacking it with a hammer. Nothing...spent the next week using PB Blaster no joy. Even after running for almost an hour yesterday still nothing. Finally even the candle wax. nothing. OK maybe put threads on the nipple, dragged out my antique pipe threader...way to big. Sooo guess it is time for the sawzall and chisel. Cut it collapse it the redress the threads In the block. Bought a 1" pipe taps a couple years ago for the same issue. Hopefully that will go well. Now I am going to have a refreshing malted beverage!!!! Pic 1 nut an bolt supply with no 4mm Pic 2 Nipple Pic 3 Pipe threader 8 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,450 #2 Posted April 27, 2018 Sometimes you just have to take the hard road. I think taking your time everything will work out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,967 #3 Posted April 27, 2018 OOOHHH! Thats one of them thick honkin nipples too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #4 Posted April 27, 2018 ...and no little nuts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,148 #5 Posted April 27, 2018 10 minutes ago, squonk said: OOOHHH! Thats one of them thick honkin nipples too! Good point you think they are Schedule 80 pipe??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,576 #6 Posted April 27, 2018 Here is a meathead for removing exhaust nipples that works every time for me. If you have an air chisel, use it to vibrate the exhaust nipple. A hammer head bit in the chisel will work the best for this. After you have soaked the pipe with penetrating fluid, work around & around the pipe with the air chisel. This vibration will loosen the rust on the threads and you will eventually be able to turn it out with a wrench. My toughest one took about 25 min of vibrating. 4 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,967 #7 Posted April 27, 2018 20 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Good point you think they are Schedule 80 pipe??? Yup Sched 80. I use the same type on every exhaust I do. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #8 Posted April 27, 2018 2 hours ago, AMC RULES said: ...and no little nuts. But on the plus side... LOTS of nuts!!!..... But only one nipple..... Seriously though I may have a bit of shelf envy. @Achto thanks for that idea! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 845 #9 Posted April 27, 2018 2 hours ago, Achto said: A hammer head bit in the chisel will work the best I like that idea. Tell me where to get the bit. I have been looking for on for a long time. Marv Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,576 #10 Posted April 27, 2018 11 minutes ago, Marv said: I like that idea. Tell me where to get the bit. I have been looking for on for a long time. I got mine from Snap On many years ago. A quick search tuned this up. https://www.amazon.com/Smoothing-Pneumatic-Hammer-Diameter-Extended/dp/B00PIF0KVG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524869042&sr=8-3&keywords=air+chisel+hammer+bit&dpID=416hh0%2Be8tL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Many more options on the same site. Here is another source. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658883_200658883?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air Tools %2B Compressors > Air Tools %2B Accessories&utm_campaign=Ingersoll Rand&utm_content=154422&gclid=CjwKCAjwlIvXBRBjEiwATWAQIoHgt-Qm_ndIWhTWmMUCX4oErmcGCyDBo6PU3JyyJEpZKRjzzuvS2BoCP28QAvD_BwE 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,072 #11 Posted April 28, 2018 do you have an 18" pipe wrench and a 3 lb. hammer ? did a lot of pipefitting as a millwright, you have the mechanical advantage if you set it up right. that nipple length and schedule will let you get a good solid pipe wrench bite on it. have the wrench sitting up at a 45 angle , that you will drive against with that 3 lb. hammer. do not drive down, on the very end of the wrench, that will bounce and waste your impact drive. the thick start of the pipe wrench taper , just under the barrel screw nut adjuster of the wrench is wear you want to drive your 3 lb. hammer. that very solid impact, on that very solid steel will move that nipple. done it many times, on much worse. that will do it , pete 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pollack Pete 2,273 #12 Posted April 28, 2018 14 hours ago, squonk said: Yup Sched 80. I use the same type on every exhaust I do. Schedule 80 nipples for sure.Having been a pipefitter for 40 years,I have a good supply of schedule 80 nipples in my inventory.We seldom ever used hardware store variety schedule 40 pipe.Just didn't hold up as well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,148 #13 Posted April 28, 2018 Thank you for the great additional ideas. I was beating on the end of the pipe wrench. Will try Peter's idea. Also going to get one of the hammer bits. This is not the first nor probably the last exhaust nipple I will play with, and i really do not like destroying them. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #14 Posted April 28, 2018 I have broken a Kohler engine block removing the exhaust pipe using brute force, just fyi... The easiest solution I've found - cut it internally with a sawzall blade, taking your time not to go too deep but get it down into the threads a bit. Once it's cut, clock you pipe wrench so the bottom jaw is just ahead of the cut, then screw it out. The wrench will start to collapse the pipe at the cut, allowing the pressure/rust to release and the easily screw right out. Be careful and take your time with the cutting part - the steel pipe is a tougher material than the cast iron block, once you go through the pipe you can seriously damage the engine. I've done at least 20 engines this way, some are left with a very slight cut into the threads but by the time you use a pipe tap to clean up the rust and gunk from the hole, it's gone or so slight that it's not a problem. Just a tip... Sarge 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,148 #15 Posted April 28, 2018 (edited) VICTORY!!!! The pipe wrench hammer approach didn't work partly because there isn't enough room for the jaw of a big wrench due to speed control disk and the block bump out for the governor. I just peeled off a layer of nipple . I didn't have the air hammer Achto recommend but I did have a fairly blunt punch. Hammered away with that no go. Got out the MAPP gas and heated it up hit it with more In-Force BG and went back to the air hammer. By now I had a nice dimple in the nipple and some more hammering she started to move!!! Thank you all very much!!!! Edited April 28, 2018 by pfrederi 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marv 845 #16 Posted April 29, 2018 On 4/27/2018 at 6:49 PM, Achto said: I got mine from Snap On many years ago. A quick search tuned this up. Thank you very much. Can you tell I am not up with the "modern" world? I should have thought to do that. Oh well, we never quit learning I guess. Marv 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites