D-Series PTO Clutch Cup Washer Sequence

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,247]

Hello,

   I have been presenting this question to whomever I presume to know the answer, you know what they say about "presumption". Now the first picture is the clutch assembly outer face with four cup washers and the flat washer as per the manual.  Up, Down, Up, Up, Flat. Notice the overall height on the sleeve.

The alternate which I used last Season, Up ,Down, Up, Down, Flat.

I replaced the bearings and followed the manual as per the first sequence, the end result is not as anticipated. I get no responce from the pto brake and the clutch seems slow to disengage, even with a load. I think this is going to be taken apart and I will switch over to the second sequence once again.

 

Oldman

[R. L. Addison 299]

Also, many bellville washers are used two sets cupped together & facing, for more spring strength. Do not know how they are supposed to be, but that would open it faster, but put more pressure on bearings.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,247]

OK, I can see that aspect of the excessive pressure on the bearings, the other part of that I also agree. Have you dealt with the brake sure issue at all?

 

Oldman

[Sarge 3,464]

The brake pads are a known issue,  it wasn't a very good design since they would groove the shoes too easily. The thing needed a better contact surface to stop that much rotating mass, especially when using the rear pto and tiller/60" deck attachments. The front drive and a 48" belly deck would be a lot easier to stop.

 

Whatever you do, don't fry those clutch plates, they are quite pricey and unique to the D model.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,247]

I found that out whenever I initially built it up and those little brass rivets! Now I have a method for those! I ran the tiller again this morning and it worked excellent, still won't stop on demand (until it hits the ground) Lol!  I will keep at it until it's acceptable.