Noirtier 7 #1 Posted February 14, 2018 Hello enthusiasts! I never knew much about Wheel horses or any tractor of any kind or much else besides. But over the last couple years of browsing Craigslist I got the itch to get my hands on one of these red machines. They look cool(at least the older ones with ag wheels) and they seemed rugg d and they have attachemnts which justify t hem far beyond simple riding mowers. I just got one the other day with tiller and plow and deck for $300. I’m excited cause it seems like a good deal! But the things been sitting for five or six years and has some problems: I drained old fuel and spray cleaned carb and replaced some of the fuel line and filter but motor still won’t stay running longer than eight or ten minutes. Should I replace all the fuel lines? I did try running with gas cap siting loose. Gas flows free from fuel cock. Gear oil in rear end/ tranny was thick and foamy. I drained it and drove it around a bit with two qts kerosene instead,as I saw suggested somewhere here. Will that clean it out well enough? Also wondered if there was a thread on hitching up tiller attachement with pics? Cant wait to get it going and trying it out! Thanks in advance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #2 Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) @Noirtier I have had to flush the rear end multiple times to get it really clean, so keep that in mind. Sounds like you may need to do a complete carb rebuild (which isn't too hard or expensive). 18 hours ago, Noirtier said: and replaced some of the fuel line and filter You should replace all the fuel line to eliminate that as a possible problem. Edited February 15, 2018 by KC9KAS spelling 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,528 #3 Posted February 14, 2018 I would also run Seafoam through the gas as well... 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,969 #4 Posted February 14, 2018 6 hours ago, Noirtier said: Gear oil in rear end/ tranny was thick and foamy. I drained it and drove it around a bit with two qts kerosene instead,as I saw suggested somewhere here. Will that clean it out well enough? When draining the transaxle it is important to jack up the front of your to get complete draining. Also, a new rubber boot on the shifter is a good idea. Ethanol free gas should be used to protect the fuel system from damage. As suggested above, Seafoam will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system. https://www.pure-gas.org/ 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #6 Posted February 14, 2018 Thanks everybody. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,350 #9 Posted February 14, 2018 I would replace the spark plug while you're at it, it's easy and can't hurt, might help. Replacing all the old fuel line might help too, it's likely there's junk in there too from sitting for so long. And 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #10 Posted February 14, 2018 If ethanol blended fuel was ever used in that tractor it is highly likely the fuel lines have rotted internally and deposited small particles in the carb and may have plugged up the check valves in the fuel pump - that is really common, the stuff is evil. Not only use ethanol-free fuel, but replace every inch of fuel line, clean/inspect the pump if it's possible and rebuild the carb along with a deep cleaning. Might want to do the spark plug as mentioned too - ethanol will damage them over time. Welcome aboard...btw. Sarge 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #11 Posted February 14, 2018 Thanks everybody. I ordered a carb "repair" kit. It didn't say "rebuild". Hopefully same thing. Also ordered air filter. I did replace the rest of the fuel lines and it ran longer so maybe that's the bulk of it. I am using ethanol gas but I added some conditioner. Does it work alright? I bought some gummout "tune up" the other day so I guess I'll try that too. And I'll replace spark plug. Seems like it won't take much to get it going well. I also drained the axle of the kerosene and added gear oil. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,969 #12 Posted February 15, 2018 2 hours ago, Noirtier said: I am using ethanol gas but I added some conditioner. Does it work alright? Ethanol free gas is well worth the higher price. By time you add the price of the conditioner to the "E"gas price you haven't saved a thing.If you aren't using up the entire contents of the fuel tank the remaining ethanol will break down and cause problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #13 Posted February 15, 2018 4 hours ago, Noirtier said: Seems like it won't take much to get it going well. From what you are describing I think you are right is thinking it shouldnt be to big a deal to get her going. And, like rest have been saying, the likely culprit is that nasty ethanol fuel has/had the fuel system really trashed. Youve replaced the line, that and the carb are the priority. The carb will very likely have to be taken apart for cleaning - that "kit" you ordered will be the needle & seat and the bowl gasket ((not much of a "kit" but needed) Sitting for long periods is hard on the fuel system. I dont know if the 310 has points or is electronic, but if points then sometime soon you should replace them - and the condenser, the points tend to get a 'glaze' where they connect and if not completly keep from getting spark, then at least run rough. Oh, and welcome to the club - these horses can be addictive!! (I'm down to only five right now - but tomorrow on CL, who knows?) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #14 Posted February 15, 2018 Thanks to all. I’ll report when it’s finished. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #15 Posted February 15, 2018 best of luck. Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #16 Posted February 16, 2018 I got the carb repair kit today. Should I replace parts that look clean? Also wonder d if anyone can tell me what the larger red papery washer is for. I didn’t see an original one. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,516 #17 Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) On 2/14/2018 at 6:12 AM, SylvanLakeWH said: I would also run Seafoam through the gas as well... Never ran Seafoam in the gas but, did run Seafoam in the carbs. Kohlers smoked like diesels as I poured the Seafoam, then clean as a whistle. Ran smooth, like new. Seafoam works great! Far better than I ever expected. PS: I often take grandsons to a local small aircraft airport. It is against the law for the aircraft to use fuel containing ethanol. The gas which you can pump into your container is 100 Octane LL (low lead) ethanol free. I also use Berryman gas additive. Edited February 16, 2018 by Tankman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,969 #18 Posted February 16, 2018 42 minutes ago, Noirtier said: I got the carb repair kit today. Should I replace parts that look clean? Also wonder d if anyone can tell me what the larger red papery washer is for. I didn’t see an original one. Thanks The red washer will go on the nut that holds the float bowl on. Be sure to soak the carb. in some Barryman's Carb. Cleaner (get it at any auto parts store or even Wallyworld) and blow out all of the passages. There are some extremely small passages that will foul up a carb. if not cleaned. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #19 Posted February 16, 2018 So.... I soaked the carb and all it’s pieces (disassaembled) in denatured alcohol . I scrubbed everything with toothbrush and used a very thin piece of brass wire to probe jets. I suppose that’s not as good as that dip, but to be honest the thing looked very clean to me. I put it back together and it ran but only for a few mins and not at full bore with the choke at about half. I fiddled with adjustment and it only got worse. It seemed fuel starved so I checked the pet cock and it was partially clogged. I fixed that and now it runs indefinitely, but choke must remain pulled about 1/4. Maybe I just need to adjust it better. Any tips? I have main needle at 1 1/2 turns from bottom and idle screw at 1 to 1 1/4. Which way should J adjust and on which or both screws? I’m pretty ignorant about this but excited to learn a bit. if adjustment doesn’t work then maybe I will get some Berryman’s dip. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 885 #20 Posted February 17, 2018 Back main needle out a little more and see if that helps. The 1-1/2 is just a starting point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #21 Posted February 17, 2018 Will try. Thnx. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #22 Posted February 17, 2018 Adjusted and is running fine. The gear oil.is still foamy, though not thick as molasses like it was. Guess I'll run it awhile and add the other half gallon after draining. Now just wondering about tiller. In a nutshell, how do you attach it? And thanks to everyone for the good answers and warm welcomes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,969 #23 Posted February 18, 2018 7 hours ago, Noirtier said: just wondering about tiller. In a nutshell, how do you attach it? This manual should get you going. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 64,075 #24 Posted February 18, 2018 On 2/16/2018 at 6:10 PM, Noirtier said: I’m pretty ignorant about this but excited to learn a bit. 17 hours ago, Noirtier said: And thanks to everyone for the good answers and warm welcomes. I joined back in may and I can't begin to tell you how much these fine folks have taught me. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Noirtier 7 #25 Posted February 22, 2018 Great! I should’ve looked through manuals. Well, after adjusting carburetor it’s running fine. Of course now we’re having a warm spell up here in VT and it feels as if I won’t get to try out the plow(just feels that way). Anyway, thanks again everybody. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites