robbme2 2 #1 Posted February 3, 2018 Hello all, I have a problem on my 654 with Tecumseh h60-75063b engine and I have no manual. I took the flywheel off and replaced the coil and the 31311 clip was missing. I ordered a new one and have no idea how it goes on? I watched a 9:44 video on you tube of a guy removing the coil, points ect.. and the clip on his assembly looked different. Is this the right clip? And how does it attach to the bracket? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,360 #2 Posted February 3, 2018 Hope this manual will be helpful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robbme2 2 #3 Posted February 3, 2018 So I found the exact parts diagram for my engine and this spring is not on my magneto assembly. So that problem is solved but I noticed I might have the wrong breaker cam on this engine. The arrow and part number is facing the engine which by the Tecumseh book is backwards and is the wrong part number it should be 30553 and mine is 30992......is this a problem or will it work? If I flip the cam around it bottoms out in the key way and won't go on all the way? Tecumseh H60-75063B H60-75064B IPL-A.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #4 Posted February 3, 2018 @robbme2 I have a 654 and was having problems with the 6 hp Tecumseh. I had another parts engine and I swapped the breaker cam and still had issues. I wonder if I have the wrong cam now...hum... Doesn't matter now, as I put a 6.25 hp Kohler in it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,714 #5 Posted February 3, 2018 (edited) Interesting on the cam. As you found in your 1964 manual Tecumseh showed two different cam numbers for Recoil and elecric start. By 1967 they showed the same parts picture as yours but now the cam was the same part # 30992 for recoil and electric. Research shows both your part numbers have been changed to the 30992. Tecumseh Manual 4.bmp Edit: The crankshaft for 1964 and for my 1967 are the same number 30799 which is I assume the keyway location you mention. Edited February 3, 2018 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robbme2 2 #6 Posted February 3, 2018 I set my points gap at .020" tdc, turn back .080" btdc and I can't set my magneto timing. When I turn back and forth all the way the points don't close. I'm assuming this 30992 is right and with the arrows facing the engine it points in the right clockwise direction..... I don't know now what to do. I just bought this and have not seen it run and I'm wondering if it was rebuilt correctly? When I bought it the carb was leaking badly and he said it ran but wouldn't start. Hmm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,714 #7 Posted February 3, 2018 11 minutes ago, robbme2 said: I set my points gap at .020" tdc, turn back .080" btdc and I can't set my magneto timing. When I turn back and forth all the way the points don't close. I'm assuming this 30992 is right and with the arrows facing the engine it points in the right clockwise direction..... I don't know now what to do. I just bought this and have not seen it run and I'm wondering if it was rebuilt correctly? When I bought it the carb was leaking badly and he said it ran but wouldn't start. Hmm If i read it right the arrow (or part number ) should face out towards the end of the crank??? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robbme2 2 #8 Posted February 3, 2018 59 minutes ago, pfrederi said: If i read it right the arrow (or part number ) should face out towards the end of the crank??? I know but then the arrow goes the wrong way and the cam bottoms out in the key way and won't go on all the way....the previous owner did that and you can see the damage inside the cam... with the arrow and part numbers in towards the engine the arrow points clockwise which is the correct direction. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robbme2 2 #9 Posted February 3, 2018 So I think I figured it out, I didn't tighten the nut on the terminal on the point up tight enough, but when I was setting my gap with my feeler gauge it was lighting up. So now with the nut tight my test light is lighting up when the points close so I shouldn't have a problem now. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
