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While I'm contemplating the pedal issue, I did finish up the wiring modifications with the fuse additions. The large fuse holder was a head scratcher :confusion-scratchheadblue: trying to figure out a place to put it without interfering with other stuff, almost like putting the proverbial 10lbs of you know what into a 5lb bag! What I ended up doing was drilling and countersinking an all threaded stove bolt down through the pan that mounts the gas tank. This would accommodate a wing nut to go through the mounting hole of the fuse holder to facilitate easy removal if needed. This is where it got a little tricky so that the bolt head didn't stick up and and interfere with or rub on the bottom of the tank. I even rolled up some balls of putty and dry fit the tank squishing the putty several times to assure adequate clearance. The only place that it would fit was directly in the bend crease of the tank holder (but not on the seam of the tank itself), and couldn't move it rearward any more than where it is at. I then cut a small square of 1/4" thick hard rubber that I had laying around in my junk collection to act as a mount for the fuse holder. Here are a few pics of the setup and completed harness:

 

The countersunk mounting bolt and rubber bumper prior to attaching the fuse holder (the 2 black marks are where the tank seam is and an area to avoid) ...

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Next the attached fuse holder with wingnut...

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...and from the left side of the tractor. Note the floating in-line 20 amp fuse holder that was also added. I do plan on binding and lashing up some of these wires once I'm sure that I'm done with them, but for now it's kind of a bowl of spaghetti.

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And a couple more pics of just the general wiring inside of the dash panel and also the starter/generator with the regulator. I made up all new cables with marine heat shrink attached with exception of the yellow wire to the lighter (I didn't have any yellow wire in my stock :grin: ) but the existing was actually in pretty good shape anyway.

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...And a few more after mounting the gas tank.

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So, after getting this far along, I just couldn't resist! I had to turn the key in order to make sure that I didn't have to tear it all down & start over:pray:, but more importantly to make sure that I kept all of the smoke confined inside of the system :laughing-rolling:. I didn't gas it up yet (I'm still in the basement), but she cranks over just fine and have spark at the plug! :greetings-clappingyellow:

 

So that pretty much sums up where I'm at to date. The major stuff that is still holding me hostage is the aforementioned painting issue of the rear rims (weather) and the attachment pedal issue. In case anyone is wondering why I don't have the air cleaner cover installed in any of the photos to date, that is a result of my own dumbness. Back when I was painting, I simply overlooked it (lost in the shuffle) and it didn't get painted! I'll just have to wait until I get the mower deck finished (haven't even started other than the tear-down) then give it a shot at that time. Same with the muffler (at least I was aware of this one), I need to sandblast it and want to give it a coat of manifold paint, which probably won't last too long, but at least it will look nice for a couple of days :rolleyes:. Still kind of looking for some more opinions from you guys on whether or not you all think my primary wire to the coil is routed correctly.

:text-feedback:

And one more thing that I am requesting a little help on is the CORRECT way to route and ATTACH my throttle linkage to the carburetor. I know for fact that the way I had it before I started this operation had been modified so many times that it did not seem correct. I planned to get into this a little deeper at a later date, but was kind of hoping some of you might have some detail photos of the setup from similar vintage tractors. Generally speaking, route over the muffler, under the muffler, location of clamps/brackets, approach angle to the carb, and the alignment and attachment to the little governor linkage wheel :thingy:? My manual just doesn't show any of this clear enough for me to decipher. I'll try to round up some photos of my "before" setup and maybe explain things a little better down the road of why I didn't like it the way it was. Just wanted to give you all a little "heads up", and most of all, thanks for putting up with me and all of my questions!

 

 

Edited by jebbear

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Just a suggestion -

Those heavy duty key switches have to carry that high current to run the starting side of the starter-generator, to keep it safer and remove the chance of a lot of current potentially shorting out against the fuel tank you can use a starter relay. There are some small, but more than capable enough relays for small engines out there that can be mounted to the frame, right behind the battery on the right side of most late 60's models. Once the belt guard is installed - it is quite hidden from view and looks as though it's the way it was designed in the first place. This makes the wiring in the dash much simpler, and much easier to shoehorn that fuel tank into it's tray. The relays can also handle the current better versus relying on the mechanical contacts in that Cole-Hersee key switch, which aren't easy to find anymore. Up to you, I still run a NOS key switch in the old 1277, I prefer that cool L-key anyway versus the later common Indak keys. When that one gets rebuilt - it will get a relay to remove the heavy wiring in the dash, just makes sense to me. 

 

Sarge

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On that attachments pedal Jeb I probaly have a couple I will never use. I can check to see if the hole is off set. Yours for shipping if suitable.  Will even throw in a couple of set screws! :)

  • Excellent 1

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2 hours ago, WHX21 said:

On that attachments pedal Jeb I probaly have a couple I will never use. I can check to see if the hole is off set. Yours for shipping if suitable.  Will even throw in a couple of set screws! 

That would be greatly appreciated! Thank-You! I have to run today, but let me know what would cover it and I'll be glad to forward to you. :text-thankyouyellow:

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7 hours ago, Sarge said:

The relays can also handle the current better versus relying on the mechanical contacts

Thanks for the input Sarge. I seriously thought about going that route but then considered that this setup has worked for about 52 years so if I can make it last another 52, then it will be the next guys problem!:rolleyes: Thanks for the suggestion, I do agree with what you are saying though.

Edited by jebbear

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On 11/27/2018 at 10:30 PM, jebbear said:

Primary wire routing. Does anyone know which path the primary wire (the "red" one in my photos) was originally as designed supposed to take from the "I" terminal of the switch to the coil?

On my 1055 and 953s the fuel line and ignition primary wire are routed around the lower side of the engine fan shroud. The clips that hold them are bolted to the engine.

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