What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[WHX?? 57,239]

So I offered to get this franken driving for Brett Esse of Portage Show proprietor fortune and fame. He offered to pay me for the work, which I refused, and I had to explain to him the difference between a hobby and a job. 

Actually is a cute little tractor and runs fairly decent. Started out life as a 656 with a K181 repo. Floor boards added but nicely done.

Problem is the tranny is locked up solid and all the diesel and kerosene in the world is not going to help. @Achto sold him an off the shelf spare tranny to put in it to get it driving and ready to be sold at the show. 

Pics of the adventure. 

 

 

What flush fluid looks like after a month of setting. I probably should have drained the water out first. 

 

 

Rite of passage my @$$.  Puller best xmass present ever @Achto 

 

 

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 31,658]

[Handy Don 16,852]

14 hours ago, Desko said:

Maybe I’m wrong in thinking but there’s shims underneath the big gear that I can take out to tighten them up a bit? 

Yep, there are shims in two places in the reduction steering. One set to bring the big gear on the intermediate shaft closer to the steering shaft gear. Another brings the lower steering shaft’s fan gear closer to the intermediate shaft’s bevel gear. 

While you’re in there, look closely for excess play in the socket that holds the steering wheel shaft--it has a grease zerk that is routinely ignored and results extra wear. 

[squonk 47,190]

Phase 2 of the 2 piece seat project.

 

[Blaine 113]

Adjusted the governor arm on the shaft so the governor is functioning now. 
 

 Ran to Ace Hardware for a 1/2”x39” belt and a longer 7/16” x 3” grade 5 bolt that was needed to mount the 6908 drive pulley on the gear drive deck.

 

 I also grabbed a heavy spring that had similar specs as the 5185 spring in the RL-366 mower parts diagram. However the spring had an extra length hook on one end, which I figured was a bonus as i could shorten it to the length needed. 
 

 Thanks to @Horseoholic for dimensions, i made a 5385 link from bar stock that goes between the spring and the idler. 
 

 In the RL-367 destructions manual it says to attach the spring to the 7th hole in the frame. On this Raider, the 7th hole is the front hole of the tower, looking at picture in the RL-367 manual, the hole that the spring is anchored to is not there on my Raider. I made a tab 1-1/2” long with a hole to attach the entire length of the Ace spring to MY 7th hole. 
 

 Since the Raider has footboards, the link and spring are hidden behind it. I had to trim the front footboard bolt 1/4” because it interfered with the link where it comes through on the back side, but it all works well. The belt keeper on the idler doubles as a boot guard. 

 

 The shimmed drive pulley spins true and freely. If i’m thinking correctly, i may try moving the throttle spring down one hole at the governor so the governor allows a little more throttle up the hill. Seemed to be dropping a bit too much rpm before the governor takes over. 
 

 I picked the deck up at the Big Show. I only pulled the gear covers off to have a peak, but i didn’t disassemble anything. Some axial play in the cross shaft, but i’ve run much worse. The right blade shaft woodruff needs replacing, not sheared but i can tell it’s worn pretty bad from the slop. Both blade shafts have some radial play, hoping the shafts aren’t worn too bad. Just need to finish out the season and i’ll replace all of the bearings before next year. 
 

 Loaded it up with grease. It mowed, but it looked really skippy. I shut it down and checked. Sure enough, the right blade was on the left and the left was on the right. This is the second gear drive deck i bought like that. 
 

 It cuts perfectly now with the blades on their correct sides. Need to order a rectifier yet and some trans seals. Brakes barely work at all on these old 3/6spds… especially backwards, on a hill, when the brake drum and band are saturated with gear lube.