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What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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8ntruck

I'm a a little pressed for time, so I stopped by the Toro dealer this morning to see if they had a new tie rod to replace the one that separated on the no name this week.  They did, but the part supersedes the original 102592 and 102593 tie rods;

 

20211023_121337.jpg.0bc18815f02d9d98542cb685dc7b4d2e.jpg

 

It is adjustable and ambidextrous.  Not inexpensive, but quicker than chasing bits and pieces to scratch build a new tie rod.

 

Will try to get it installed this weekend.

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echris
On 10/21/2021 at 1:35 AM, 8ntruck said:

Yes, I started with a cardboard template.  I also described it on the forum about a year ago.  It might even be earlier in this thread. 

 

Basically, it is a panel long enough to cover the discharge on my 42" SD deck.  On the front end, there is a tab bent 90 degrees and drilled to match an existing hole in the deck.  On the back edge of the plate, there is a triangular tab bent on a 45 degree angle to vertical so it matches the angle of the deck, again drilled to match an existing hole in the deck.  There was also some cut to match and beat to fit work done on the plate before I was happy with the final fit.

 

In use, it tends to pile the leaves up in front of the deck and blow clippings out from under the front corners of the deck.  Not a perfect mulching system, but good enough for what I wanted.

 I remember reading that thread, about a year ago or so. 

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echris

Finally made the mulching cover for the 42SD today. I had a perfect piece of anodized 1/16" aluminum plate in my "make from" pile. One cardboard box, a straightedge and some Sharpie later and we've got a template!

 

 

I don't have a sheet metal brake, but two heavy duty aluminum chassis sides from an old piece of electronic equipment worked perfectly. There's gussets all over the place inside this chassis and a right angle at the top. Clamped in the vice with a few c-clamps underneath held the workpiece perfectly. Using a long bar clamp and two pieces of 1-by clamped to the top acted as a handle to fold the metal about 45 degrees or so, then I flattened it out with a rubber mallet. It worked perfectly!

PXL_20211023_154314410_MP.jpg.c5813672287e81e3389a227ebdb9cf6c.jpg

 

The it was back to the bandsaw for some notches and back to the vice for more bending. After some trial and error, it ended up a great fit. Not perfect, but sturdy and certainly do-able.

 

At the back portion, you can see a plate PO installed below the height adjuster lever because of rot. I didn't have time to today to address it, will hopefully be doing a full restore on this deck in winter, but I used it as a clamp to hold down the back "wing" on the cover. 

 

PXL_20211023_164032662_MP.jpg.24b105e73b4acc26995475e79359c46d.jpg

 

I mowed the front today and it worked perfectly. 1 pass and all the leaves were gone, even with my very dull blades. :oops:

 

The back could be a bit lower, but overall it worked great, so I'll keep it!

 

PXL_20211023_193449601_MP.jpg.2048a2eb09d21dc55835c86bafb4e5fa.jpg

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cblessj

Replaced the dry rotted turf saver front tires with Deestone tri ribs. The dry rotted turf saver rears were replaced with 23x10.5x12 Carlisle Tru Powers last week. I ordered 23x8.5x12s and thats what was on the receipt but they shipped 10.5s. Oh well.

20211023_164340.jpg

20211023_164336.jpg

Edited by cblessj
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Gregor
2 minutes ago, cblessj said:

Replaced the dry rotted turf saver front tires with Deestone tri ribs.

Curious about the Deestone Tri ribs. I know that rears, 23 X10.50 - 12 by Deestone run small compared to Carlisles of the same size. Is the same true for the front tri ribs?

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echris
1 hour ago, cblessj said:

Replaced the dry rotted turf saver front tires with Deestone tri ribs. The dry rotted turf saver rears were replaced with 23x10.5x12 Carlisle Tru Powers last week. I ordered 23x8.5x12s and thats what was on the receipt but they shipped 10.5s. Oh well.

20211023_164340.jpg

 



You should put some Ag's on that kiddie car in the background.

 

 

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Snoopy11

What did I do to my Wheel Horse today?

 

I put it to work! 

 

 

 

Don

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cblessj
3 hours ago, Gregor said:

Curious about the Deestone Tri ribs. I know that rears, 23 X10.50 - 12 by Deestone run small compared to Carlisles of the same size. Is the same true for the front tri ribs?

Good question. I didnt think to measure them, so I dont know exactly but side by side they did seem a little smaller. They fit with no issues. They came with tubes but I am running them tubeless. Saw other posts where people said the tubes werent necessary. So far so good.

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cblessj
2 hours ago, echris said:



You should put some Ag's on that kiddie car in the background.

 

 

Thats a "wheel horse" of a different sort.

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CrossThread Industries

Hey Everybody,

Wow, if I follow the info in this thread I might have a chance of bringing some of this back to life.

I went back and picked up the rest of the items today.

Somebody in the family where I picked up this haul had used one of the engines on a Homelite snowblower. I have to give A+ to that ingenuity, to get things to match up.

I picked up the snowblower today and now have two engines that MAY go to the carcasses shown.

Will post a few pics tomorrow in the light.

Cheers,

PJ

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Horse Newbie

@CrossThread Industries  may I suggest becoming a supporter...we love pictures !

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ebinmaine
10 hours ago, CrossThread Industries said:

Hey Everybody,

Wow, if I follow the info in this thread I might have a chance of bringing some of this back to life.

I went back and picked up the rest of the items today.

Somebody in the family where I picked up this haul had used one of the engines on a Homelite snowblower. I have to give A+ to that ingenuity, to get things to match up.

I picked up the snowblower today and now have two engines that MAY go to the carcasses shown.

Will post a few pics tomorrow in the light.

Cheers,

PJ

 

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

@CrossThread Industries  may I suggest becoming a supporter...we love pictures !

 

 

Agreed. 

 

I'd also add to @CrossThread Industries please feel free to create your own threads. 

This huge general thread is an excellent source but easily buries info due to its large size. 

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Achto

I continued work on " Pale Face" my new to me 856 today. After getting the engine in running condition on an IV bottle Thursday, I turned my attention to the rest of the tractor.

 

- Installed the gas tank , new petcock, and finished running new fuel line. Didn't find a tank strap @WHX??

- Drained about 2qts of water out of the transmission along with some super thick oil-ish substance 

- Drilled and tapped a drain hole in the front half of the tranny, so I didn't have to stand the tractor on end to drain the tranny.

- Flushed 2 gallons of diesel through the tranny, one filling at a time. Fill it, drive around for 10min, drain it, repeat, repeat, repeat.......

- Filled the tranny with 5w 20 oil, drove around for 20min, drained it and finally  filled with 80 90w.

- New shifter boot to keep the water out in the future.

- Changed the engine oil

- New spark plug

- Gave all of the zerts a few squirts of grease.

- Tweaked the voltage regulator a little to get the charging voltage up to 14.2vdc instead of 12.8vdc. ( Oddly enough it charges at 14.2vdc at about 3/4 throttle and 13.8vdc at wide open. ) :confusion-confused: 

 

After all the driving around to flush the tranny, I was quite impressed with how well this tractor runs and drives. So impressed, that I even purchased a battery so that it could have one of its very own. :):thumbs2:

 

It may not look like much, but it sure is a nice running and driving tractor.

IMG_20211023_172117527.jpg.2e9556f7287d36d96fa0ec70bb7286ba.jpg

IMG_20211023_172130688.jpg.d68511862772796f43d91f61fc0c9674.jpg

 

Still a few "shoe man" issues to take care of but I wouldn't be afraid to put it to work.

 

 

 

 

 

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Horse Newbie
21 minutes ago, Achto said:

Tweaked the voltage regulator 

How fo you "tweak" a voltage regulator ?

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Handy Don
3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

How fo you "tweak" a voltage regulator ?

:text-yeahthat:

I'd love to know, too!

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Achto
9 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

How fo you "tweak" a voltage regulator ?

 

On a OEM Delco Remy regulator for a starter/gen there is a screw inside the regulator that will adjust the voltage output. It is very touchy, a little bump can make a big difference.

Regulator-Adjustment-Photo.jpg.8746a4231710d545f9ddd97a03cfef65.jpg

1951-buick-generator-regulator-spring-tension-adjustments.jpg.2cecdea63d0b5e2ce644e6ae01e2e1ab.jpg

 

Aftermarket regulators don't have this adjustment screw, you have to tweak the tab that the spring connects to.

 

 

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Handy Don

A

50 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

On a OEM Delco Remy regulator for a starter/gen there is a screw inside the regulator that will adjust the voltage output. It is very touchy, a little bump can make a big difference.

Aftermarket regulators don't have this adjustment screw, you have to tweak the tab that the spring connects to.

 

 

Thanks!

 

I started with electronics pretty early and with IC's plus a few resistors, capacitors, and coils a regulator was pretty easy, especially at relatively low current levels. I've only ever worked on engines with solid state regulators (or none at all!), but now that you got me intrigued I had to go learn how it was done before electronics!

 

So I read page 10 (and a couple of the other pages) and also the somewhat wordy but helpful explanation here: https://regitar.com/image/file_downloads/Mechanical-Regulator-Service-Bulletin.pdf

 

The engineering for the electro-mechanical regulators, however, has been a neat lesson in creativity. Such a cool balancing act--first a generator that puts out voltages and currents within certain ranges based on a planned range of operating RPMs plus a battery that can handle certain charging voltages (and current). Then make charging be on or off based on voltage via an electromagnet where the gap setting adjusts how far the generator's magnetic pull has to "reach" to close the circuit to start the charging.

 

But going further, the dual function regulators can regulate current by rapidly cycling a diversion of some of the charge away from the battery under the control of a separate, current-balanced relay AND having it be temperature compensated to boot by knowing the resistance of some coils at different temperatures! Way slick.

 

Are the WH regulators dual function and temp compensated or voltage only?

 

 

Edited by Handy Don
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Achto
3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'll have to go learn how it was done before electronics!

 

The good ol' days. File some points, turn a few screws and your back in business. :)

 

New electronics - Throw it away and buy new. :(

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, Achto said:

 

It may not look like much, but it sure is a nice running and driving tractor.

 

I think it looks great. Short frame square hoods are awesome. And well worked is almost like a badge of honor.

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I think it looks great. Short frame square hoods are awesome. And well worked is almost like a badge of honor.

:text-yeahthat:

 

@Achto great to see such a wonderful old piece get some attention and be put to work. 

Those type/size are the chosen ride of the BBT. 

She wouldn't use anything else. 

Squirt the wheels and swap the rolling stock and you've got a new member of the remuda. 

 

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Andy N.

I'm going through the 417-A that I purchased a couple weeks ago. I found the idler pulley for the drive belt completely frozen. Here is a side by side comparison of the original parts and the new parts. The spacer sitting on the new pulley was completely gone. It's definitely been this way for a while. 

IMG_0760.JPG

Edited by Andy N.
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Gregor

I was looking at the parts breakdown for a 417-A. This shows the wave washer (36) on the end of the cross shaft, (arm assembly). Is this really where it goes on a 417-A?

 

2049117260_Screenshot2021-10-25at05-56-17httpslookup3torocompartdexpopprintcfmxCallerToroPage-Tractor1985417-A31-17K....png.36cc53fcbfc02765a9ff03da68f72492.png

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cleat

That is where the wave washer is on all of my 520's.

 

I have removed this release mechanism from my 520's (only came on the early ones) because I never use it and they always seem to rattle.

 

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