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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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Gregor
1 hour ago, ranger said:

It’s in the last photo in post #10587 😆

WHAPP !

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Jeff-C175
2 hours ago, Gregor said:

I don't know where I put the decal.

 

Welcome to my world Greg! :beer:

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TonyToro

My son and I started the swap over from snowblower to the rototiller. This will be the first time the new to us tiller will be on the C-145. The prior owner gave us a few pulleys springs and belts in a box to use with this tiller and the snowblower. It was our job to figure out where all this stuff went. A few small pieces were missing  with the snow blower and so far the tiller is missing the return spring, belt and the lift chain. If anyone can direct me to those parts it would be helpful. 
but while installing I found some awesome farmer fixes like this nail holding the cable adjustment piece in place. 😂 oh there were more but hey that’s what needs to be done sometimes to get the job done.

E6094BEF-6E59-4B81-AD2C-C5C12EFF6583.jpeg

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Gregor

If I am looking at the book right, it calls for nuts, on the bottom of these 2 bolts. If I could get nuts on there, I could turn the nut, instead of the bolt. I just don't see how that's possible I used J-nuts.

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Wheel Horse 3D

Dug finally gettin a bath after a 24 hr soak of wd40! Mrs 3D gettin in on some WH action!

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haydendavid380

Deep cleaning of the new horse as well as ongoing little fixes to get her up to snuff. The brake pedal to replace the snapped off one came in this afternoon. Got that swapped out. I can't for the life of my remember how the return spring that connects to the floor board connects to the pedal. Does it just hook into the cotter pin?

 

Also managed to spread this tractor out over most of my garage 😆

 

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R Scheer

Nothing too much

 

Lubed snowblower chain, greased impeller bearing, topped off front gear box, checked chain tension and put blower in the shed for the seaon.

 

Tractor changed engine oil, spark plug, filter.  To come hydrostatic fluid (Mobil 1), filter, grease zerks, dry lube any moving parts and check tires.  Maybe finish the pedal motion control but that's not a rush.

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ranger

Very neat work!  👍👍 There’s no need to worry about ‘Overbuilding’ on something like this, it could potentially be under a fair amount of stress now and again. The extra weight added by using thicker materials in the fabrication is a bonus, why use lightweight materials  building something that you’ll probably use to hang weights on at sometime?image.jpeg.9e91b86e97220914d808bc1e0b6e91e4.jpeg

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ranger

Do you have a small scalpel, or a very sharp knife? If you lay the decal in place without sticking it down, loosely fit bolts and washers, then mark around washers, remove and trim decal, perhaps with scissors? Loosely re-fit bolts and washers and stick decal in place, then tighten bolts, If you trim carefully, no one will ever know.

Doug.image.jpeg.cebe2ad59bd7b003989580e23dbab804.jpeg

Edited by ranger
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Gregor
7 hours ago, haydendavid380 said:

Does it just hook into the cotter pin?

 

If you are talking about the spring from the frame to the PTO pedal, yes. It simply hooks into the cotter pin.20210420_031033.jpg.16deafb11383915de9f725d1533b0f5f.jpg

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Ed Kennell
22 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I guess I need to clean up and repaint the discharge chute and reinstall it then.  The blade on the discharge end is perilously close (less than a quarter inch) to the head of one of the carriage bolts that holds the rear wheel bar.  In fact, I replaced that bolt because the head was nearly sheared off by 'blade strike'.

 

I wonder how 'bent' my deck really is?  How much clearance is on all y'alls deck from the top of the blade 'wing' to the sloped deck surface at the rear?  Maybe mine is more bent than I realized!

 

All my 42" nd 48" decks have the support bar.     They have abut 1/2" clearance at the rea in question.

A 42" I am rebuilding.102_2888.JPG.67864e78050002d2dfa49b023ea5d119.JPG102_2887.JPG.450a2f674b0c72d8e1248d3f36a9a511.JPG

 

A 48" deck

 

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

They have abut 1/2" clearance

 

I guess mine is pretty 'tweaked' then!  My machine was owned by a local business and I'm sure the employees who used it didn't GAS about taking care of it.  As I've mentioned, it was seriously 'crashed' at one point.  Someone performed some previous repairs that were a bit 'sub par' which I've done my best to correct.  Still not the best, but the best I could do.  I just need to be careful not to 'bump' the rear wheels on anything when backing up and I'll be OK... have been so far (almost 30 years) [well, except once]

 

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

All my 42" nd 48" decks have the support bar.

 

That looks like 3/4" ?  Any idea the ages of your decks?  

 

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

rebuilding

 

Looks like even more welding and patching than I had to do?  Rusted out?

 

Maybe next year after I've messed the new paint all up again I'll look into adding the bar to mine.

 

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EricF

I've always suspected that the bar across the discharge was supposed to be not only a block against putting a toe too far in, but also a means to guide the deck up and over obstructions like roots or sunken rocks that might catch the back side of the discharge chute. (The front roller will lift the deck, but then it drops before the rear roller or gauge wheel gets it back up and over.) In real life, I usually see these get bent upward because of said tree roots and sunken rocks, which tends to pull on the deck and tweak it out of alignment. I've seen them on various manufacturers' decks. Some make better use of it than others. In all cases, long or wet grass loves to get caught up on the bar, so it's not always helpful.

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Jeff-C175
19 minutes ago, EricF said:

long or wet grass loves to get caught up on the bar, so it's not always helpful.

 

That's my fear too, and the reason that I don't use the discharge chute with it's associated bar.  About 1/2 acre of my property has some kinda grass that doesn't cut well even when the blades are sharp and the grass is dry.  I was constantly having to stop and pull the grass off of the bar.  Maybe I should weld a machete blade on there?  :eusa-think:

 

Ya know... on more thinking...  If I welded a 3/4 bar to the TOP of the deck, along the perimeter of the opening, it would serve to stiffen the deck and not create an obstruction.  I'm going to think about that!  Maybe use 1/2" instead of 3/4 though.

 

Something like this:

 

I could follow the perimeter in red, or simply up and over in blue.

 

In fact, if one wanted to really strengthen those decks, they could weld 1/2" bar all the way around the perimeter!  ROCKS AND ROOTS BE DAMNED!

 

image.png.8d19d732b57b7481565c66e035bae8b3.png

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Ed Kennell
55 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I guess mine is pretty 'tweaked' then!  My machine was owned by a local business and I'm sure the employees who used it didn't GAS about taking care of it.  As I've mentioned, it was seriously 'crashed' at one point.  Someone performed some previous repairs that were a bit 'sub par' which I've done my best to correct.  Still not the best, but the best I could do.  I just need to be careful not to 'bump' the rear wheels on anything when backing up and I'll be OK... have been so far (almost 30 years) [well, except once]

 

 

That looks like 3/4" ?  Any idea the ages of your decks?  

 The bar is 1/2".

All my stuff is OLD.  Probably '70s.  The 42" i'm working on has DD spindles

 

 

Looks like even more welding and patching than I had to do?  Rusted out?

Yeah, the whole right rear corner was gone and a section at the front center.   The baffle was also loose with some sections  missing.

I'm actually patching it up for an old (87yo) friend.  I installed one of my good 42"SDs on his C-120 to use until I get his deck rebuilt..

 

Maybe next year after I've messed the new paint all up again I'll look into adding the bar to mine.

 

 

Edited by Ed Kennell

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EricF

I have the 48" deck with the chute guard, and no bar. No sign of it ever having one, and the parts manual for it doesn't show it. It's a 1996 model -- maybe Toro did away with it.

 

The chute guard can cause more windrowing with wet or long grass, but it does a good job of keeping any small debris from getting flung very far. If I need it to throw the clippings further, a bungee cord can keep it pulled up.

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Jeff-C175
13 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

The bar is 1/2".

All my stuff is OLD.

 

My 'stuff' is old too. :scared-eek:

 

Do any of your older decks have the 'bolt on' discharge chute?  My deck is an '80.  I wonder if they started using the bolt on chute and eliminated the bar on the newer decks?

 

However, my original parts manual shows both the bolt on chute AND the bar.  So... I dunno!

 

Maybe I'll bolt that chute back on and try it again.  If it clogs up still, I'll cut the bar out of it and see how that goes.  It's MUCH heavier steel than the deck stamping itself.  I'd have to REALLY work at it to bend it in use!

Edited by Jeff-C175

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Jeff-C175
10 minutes ago, EricF said:

maybe Toro did away with it.

 

That's what I'm thinking...

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Jeff-C175
23 minutes ago, EricF said:

a bungee cord can keep it pulled up.

 

Wait... what?  I couldn't pull mine up with a car jack!  It's really heavy steel and bolted four places.

 

Did they switch over to the spring loaded hinged plastic ones?  I wonder if those could be adapted to the older decks?

 

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haydendavid380
6 hours ago, Gregor said:

If you are talking about the spring from the frame to the PTO pedal, yes. It simply hooks into the cotter pin.

 

This spring was connected to the pedal some how and ran to the floorboard 

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EricF

The 48"

11 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Wait... what?  I couldn't pull mine up with a car jack!  It's really heavy steel and bolted four places.

 

Did they switch over to the spring loaded hinged plastic ones?  I wonder if those could be adapted to the older decks?

 

Toro decks at least have a hinged (heavy) metal chute guard that mostly stays down by its own weight. I keep a short bungee around to hold it up when needed, especially if it's off the tractor and has to be rolled around. When you lift up the front of the deck to roll it on the gauge wheels, the back bottom edge of the chute guard drags on the ground unless you have it held up.

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Lee1977
5 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Wait... what?  I couldn't pull mine up with a car jack!  It's really heavy steel and bolted four places.

 

Did they switch over to the spring loaded hinged plastic ones?  I wonder if those could be adapted to the older decks?

 

On my 75 series deck I changed mine to straight out with the top of the deck, I ran i for years without it on, but put it back to keep all the grass and trash off my rear wheel.

I did weld a 3/8" bar around the front to keep the deck from getting bent when hitting roots.

My newer decks had the bar plus a flat welded to the bar angled up and the chute angled down,  I removed the flat and left everything else as it was.

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Gregor
11 minutes ago, haydendavid380 said:

This spring was connected to the pedal some how and ran to the floorboard 

 

I think you are on the wrong side of the tractor for the PTO pedal. What model tractor again?

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