jeff lary 173 #1 Posted December 17, 2017 Has anyone else ever dealt with moisture getting into then freezing inside the choke and throttle cables? I have and for many years too, usually in the fall I disconnect the carb end of both cables and force with air pressure some marvel mystery oil into the cable housing ,this fall I forgot. Well I did it a couple hours ago but the reason I do it is because moisture gets inside the cable housing then freezes the wire to the housing...what a pain. I figure with all the tractors out there in the winter I must not be the only one. What do you do to keep the moisture out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,108 #2 Posted December 17, 2017 If you run some heat shrink tubing over the cable and shrink it to the jacket then use a liberal amount of WD-40 in each one you should be set for a long time. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,553 #3 Posted December 17, 2017 You might try antifreeze instead of the WD-40. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,605 #4 Posted December 17, 2017 I never had any cables freeze up, but I keep all my tractors inside. I have saved quite a few cables that were frozen with rust. I cut the bends off at the carb or choke, then clamp a vise grip on the wire below the knob or lever and tap the wire completely out of the sheath Then fill it with MM oil , put the wire back in and work it back and forth till it slides easily. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,266 #5 Posted December 17, 2017 Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1995 520H+96+97 937 #6 Posted December 17, 2017 On my 520H, the throttle cable is routed down to a motor mount bolt. It now is routed on top of the engine, and never freezes. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #7 Posted December 18, 2017 Silicone spray is what locksmiths use to apply to car door locks as a thawing agent 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 173 #8 Posted December 18, 2017 Thanks, I thought about antifreeze today. I like the heat shrink idea I bet that would work well. I have the rubber cap on one and a homemade cap on the other. But neither one stays In place like it is supposed to ha ha. Its def not rust it is ice I have an experimental cover taped in place from 4" above the cables and it hangs to about 6" below the linkage connection. I am hoping the marvel mystery oil fix will keep me" tinkering free" for the remainder of the winter. My tractors are in a garage but it is not heated. Used the ole Harbor Freight heat gun to thaw them out today so I could do the oil treatment. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,549 #9 Posted December 18, 2017 17 hours ago, jeff lary said: What do you do to keep the moisture out? COVERED, LINED CONDUIT *Protective plastic lining inside and out makes this the ultimate conduit *50' roll *Use with solid wire or stranded cable *3/16" OD http://www.psep.biz/store/universal_mower_cables.htm A 50 ft roll might not be practical for the guys with a tractor or two but this stuff works well. At $30 it's still not crazy but maybe it's available somewhere in shorter lengths. It's covered on the outside and has a plastic liner tube inside the metal conduit. Lets the wire move nice and smooth and makes a very noticeable difference with the push / pull type controls, even if there isn't a problem with freezing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-85 726 #10 Posted December 18, 2017 I've taken a different approach, on the cables I've had with the plastic coating, I've cut all of that off. Then I keep the outer part well oiled and that has worked, the oil seeps through and keeps the cable lubed. I've had cables that were near frozen, eliminated the coating altogether, oiled the metal casing and brought it back to working fine. C-85 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch 406 #11 Posted December 18, 2017 I have trouble with my choke cable, so I cut off the outer wound wire part near the knob and replaced it with a small dia. (1/8" ID?) stiff plastic tubing that fit tightly over the remaining knob end. Works well and it didn't cost a dime! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff lary 173 #12 Posted December 18, 2017 ok thanks all interesting ideas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites