FEL Build for 520

[AMC RULES 37,117]

 Just need a foot control now...

to replace your column mounted motion lever. 

Allows you to keep a hand on your bucket control at all times. 

[cleat 5,767]

I agree, Matt's kit will be the perfect addition to your machine.

[cschannuth 3,816]

47 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

 Just need a foot control now...

to replace your column mounted motion lever. 

Allows you to keep a hand on your bucket control at all times. 

 

I have one. I just haven’t tackled it yet. I’m not exactly sure how to get the parking brake lever off.  I tried to get the roll pin out of there before with a small punch and I was hitting it so hard I was afraid I was going to break it and the shaft that it’s on.

[AMC RULES 37,117]

     Arrgh...

them dreaded roll pins. 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,326]

Not sure how I missed this build thread but looks like quality work to me. 

[RJC1965 160]

Very nice hope to get my 520h loader in the shape you have some day. 

[RandyLittrell 3,876]

Very nicely done Craig!! It really looks factory!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[cschannuth 3,816]

It’s finally operational. I still need to wrestle some of the hydraulic lines into a more organized fashion but everything works. Since the PF Engineering plans are for a Cub several things needed to be modified. I have put on few notes/comments below that I hope might help others. I will go in to more detail on my notes if someone asks. I will also post some more pics after I tidy things up a bit more. 

 

1.  The subframe needs to be built for a WH. The Cub attaches completely differently. I attached at six locations to spread the load. 

 

2.  The pump mount mounts on the side for WH instead of in front for the Cub. 

 

3.  If I did another I would extend the lift arms about 4”. My bucket was too close to the front tires. I added spacers to my mounting points to get clearance so I didn’t have to modify my subframe. You could also move the towers forward on the subframe but I would rather keep the weight as far back on the tractor as possible. 

 

4.  To make my plumbing clear my lift arms and my cylinders I had to reverse my lift cylinders. This makes it a little tricky to fasten the hydraulic lines for the lift cylinders since there is so much movement when extending and retracting. In hind sight I would probably lower my suction/filter line to gain clearance for the cylinder but I like having the filter high and tight like it is now. 

 

5.  I don’t like that the design uses all hoses instead of hard lines on the arms. It’s not a very clean look. I may change that some day. 

 

6.  Finally, if you can find one it would be much cheaper to buy a used loader and refurbish it and build a subframe if needed. I had a lot of the steel but it was still expensive by the time I bought the pump, lines, fittings, control unit, etc. 

 

I’m no expert by any means but I’ve learned a lot. If I can help in any way, let me know. 

 

[jeff lary 171]

Boy what a great job ! Better than any factory build would have been.

[cschannuth 3,816]

2 minutes ago, jeff lary said:

Boy what a great job ! Better than any factory build would have been.

 

That’s very nice of you to say but it has plenty of flaws close up, LOL. 

[CasualObserver 3,407]

That looks awesome... definitely don't sell yourself short. IF there really are flaws... you're the only one who will see them! Nice job! That whole package looks great.  

[dclarke 4,032]

Awesome work, Craig.     I'm sure you'll get plenty of use out of it. 

[cschannuth 3,816]

1 hour ago, CasualObserver said:

That looks awesome... definitely don't sell yourself short. IF there really are flaws... you're the only one who will see them! Nice job! That whole package looks great.  

 

Thanks!

[cschannuth 3,816]

55 minutes ago, dclarke said:

Awesome work, Craig.     I'm sure you'll get plenty of use out of it. 

 

Thanks.  It’s not Denny Clarke quality but it’s Goodnuf for me. 4 or 5 yards of mulch are first on the agenda. 

Edited June 7, 2018 by cschannuth

[RandyLittrell 3,876]

OK, this time I really mean YOUR tractor looks really good!!!!! 

 

I am such an idiot some times! 

 

 

Randy

[cschannuth 3,816]

24 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

OK, this time I really mean YOUR tractor looks really good!!!!! 

 

I am such an idiot some times! 

 

 

Randy

 

Thanks, Randy. 

[WHX?? 48,586]

When you want me to come down pick it up!??!?!? 

Edited June 7, 2018 by WHX19

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Looks great. You did a fantastic job.

[AMC RULES 37,117]

.  

  Good job Craig!!

 

[cschannuth 3,816]

If I could get all the drips to stop I would be really happy with it. 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

11 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

If I could get all the drips to stop I would be really happy with it. 

 

Hydraulic leaks? Are they NPT threads that are leaking? If so, I highly recommend using Loctite 545. You put it on the 2nd thread on the pipe and go a few threads around. It doesn't take much of it to work. The only thing that stinks is a 24hr full cure. When I did my loader it helped immensely and I had no leaks due to this.

[cschannuth 3,816]

58 minutes ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

 

Hydraulic leaks? Are they NPT threads that are leaking? If so, I highly recommend using Loctite 545. You put it on the 2nd thread on the pipe and go a few threads around. It doesn't take much of it to work. The only thing that stinks is a 24hr full cure. When I did my loader it helped immensely and I had no leaks due to this.

Yes. The fittings are weeping.  I assume I would have to take the fittings apart and get all of the joint compound cleaned off really well for Loctite to work, correct? 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

15 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

Yes. The fittings are weeping.  I assume I would have to take the fittings apart and get all of the joint compound cleaned off really well for Loctite to work, correct? 

Yes. You would have to clean the threads first and get the joint compound out of it. I would take a paper towel or rag to get most of it off first and then a wire brush as necessary. The stuff will fill the holes if it is perfectly clean but the cleaner the better.

 

Permatex (Loctite equivalent) would also work and is sold generally at Napa's if you can't get the Loctite version. It is expensive, but a small bottle goes a very long way.

[cschannuth 3,816]

23 minutes ago, mmmmmdonuts said:

Yes. You would have to clean the threads first and get the joint compound out of it. I would take a paper towel or rag to get most of it off first and then a wire brush as necessary. The stuff will fill the holes if it is perfectly clean but the cleaner the better.

 

Permatex (Loctite equivalent) would also work and is sold generally at Napa's if you can't get the Loctite version. It is expensive, but a small bottle goes a very long way.

 

Thanks. I wish I would’ve used the Loctite in the first place. Now, getting the threads clean, especially the female, will be tough. 

[RandyLittrell 3,876]

22 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

 

 especially the female, will be tough. 

 

 

Dealing with females is always tough!!!