Sparky-(Admin) 19,564 #1 Posted September 30, 2017 This just happened tonight...should be fun tomorrow getting it out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,034 #2 Posted September 30, 2017 Ooooh..... No good. Hopefully it comes out tomorrow without much trouble. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,750 #4 Posted September 30, 2017 If you grind a couple of flats on it a pair of vice grips should do the trick. Put down a couple of layers of duct tape over the block to protect it from the grinder etc. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,612 #5 Posted October 1, 2017 Try the old man's trick. Heat it a little bit and push some wax onto the stud. That will draw the wax onto the threads, giving them just enough lube to let the stud turn out. Have not ever tried this myuself, but told that it works. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,041 #6 Posted October 1, 2017 I would be soaking it for a few days myself with tranny fluid and acetone mix before trying. Good luck. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,564 #7 Posted October 1, 2017 16 minutes ago, stevebo said: I would be soaking it for a few days myself with tranny fluid and acetone mix before trying. Good luck. Been shooting it with PB Blaster for a few hours now in preparation for tomorrow. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,450 #8 Posted October 1, 2017 At least it didn't snap off flush, that would have been a little harder to remove. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #9 Posted October 1, 2017 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: If you grind a couple of flats on it a pair of vice grips should do the trick Yeah, and heat it with a torch until near cherry - start turning it immediately before it cools off... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #10 Posted October 1, 2017 Have had 2 of those boogers, one same as yours and the another at the other exhaust bolt (that hot exhaust does a number on them!) on both mine I ended up tearing down enough to get the block mounted on the mill table and milling them out Hopefully with that one having so much 'meat' left to grab it'll come on out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #11 Posted October 1, 2017 Mike, if you keep pointing at it like that, by tomorrow... it'll probably come out with little to no fight at all. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,612 #12 Posted October 1, 2017 1 hour ago, AMC RULES said: Mike, if you keep pointing at it like that, by tomorrow... it'll probably come out with little to no fight at all. Yeah...humiliating it, like a bad child. lol 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #13 Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Don't chance it . Weld a nut onto it ! I didn't and it wound up costing me 300 beaver pelts for a new engine last year Edited October 1, 2017 by Digger 66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,947 #14 Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Did you even try to turn it? I had a head bolt actually rot away and about that much was sticking out. I'm thinking this will be fun. I put vise grips on the stub and it was loose! But mine was not near the exhaust. Edited October 1, 2017 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503 #15 Posted October 1, 2017 Weld a nut on with an electric welder, let it cool and you can likely turn it out with your fingers. Know why? Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #16 Posted October 1, 2017 Magic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #17 Posted October 1, 2017 Heating what is left of the bolt will make it expand - most times breaking the rust bond between the two parts . I will add to that - just after welding the nut , use a little paraffin wax melted into the joint . Just make sure to keep it out of the cylinder - I'd roll the piston to the bottom and cover the hole with a piece of sheet metal to keep weld spatter off the piston and the wax away from the rings . Let it cool and it should unscrew easily . If not , start soaking it a few times a day with acetone/ATF mixture - that will penetrate nearly anything . Trying to heat the block area around those bolts enough to expand the cast iron will likely destroy the fins and probably damage the cylinder bore - so getting a stuck/broken head bolt out can be tougher than most and serious care must be taken here . Take your time and be patient - it will eventually come out . Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #18 Posted October 1, 2017 15 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Weld a nut on with an electric welder, let it cool and you can likely turn it out with your fingers. Know why? I think the theory is that it will loosen the corrosion allowing it to turn...In reality this doesn't always work...heating to cherry and turning instantly works every time.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #19 Posted October 1, 2017 The likelihood of cracking the block near that valve is really high if you use a torch to heat it - you can expand cast iron too much in a small area - I learned the hard way years ago on an old vintage Briggs and ruined it . I agree in most cases heating around the bolt until red never fails - especially on regular steel parts or cast parts that can take the stress , but not so much on an engine block in that area ...the Kohlers like to crack around that valve as it is if overheated from blocked fins . Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #20 Posted October 1, 2017 9 minutes ago, Sarge said: cracking the block near that valve is really high if you use a torch to heat it I agree, but don't heat the block - only the stud- use a brazing tip to keep the heat on the stud...the heat from the stud shouldn't affect the block...imho...while I have never done this on a small block, 15 years in industrial maintenance on small and extra large machinery makes me think it would be fine. again, don't heat the block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,564 #21 Posted October 1, 2017 I WIN!!!! 4 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,169 #22 Posted October 1, 2017 By hand I presume? or did you have to use your teeth? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,750 #23 Posted October 1, 2017 5 hours ago, gwest_ca said: let it cool and you can likely turn it out with your fingers. Know why? If you don't let it cool you will burn your little pinkies! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,564 #24 Posted October 1, 2017 1 hour ago, SylvanLakeWH said: By hand I presume? or did you have to use your teeth? Soooo....tried the welded nut trick but the nut snapped off😡 . Ended up drilling it out until it was wafer thin....then ran a 3/8x16 tap into her which was a slow painful process. The tap actually cleaned the remnants of the bolt out and cleaned the threads. WHEW!! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #25 Posted October 1, 2017 51 minutes ago, Sparky said: Soooo....tried the welded nut trick but the nut snapped off😡 . Ended up drilling it out until it was wafer thin....then ran a 3/8x16 tap into her which was a slow painful process. The tap actually cleaned the remnants of the bolt out and cleaned the threads. WHEW!! Hope you used a bottoming tap ..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites