Advice needed - Wheel Horse C-81 - worth the price?

[SCAVENGERGIRL 10]

I didn't go to see it but I did ask for a few photos.

 

Evidently is was rebuilt 4 years ago & used to mow grass but hasn't been run in about 2 years. He said he did start it over the winter with starting fluid.

 

I'm reluctant to pass it up primarily due to the attachments, it's almost everything I think I want at a price I can afford. I'd guess it's still available (and maybe even for sale) for all the reasons listed above. I thought this would be a good starter for me, help me understand what I'm dealing with when it comes to a little tractor and figure out what I really do want for when I have a little more expendable income (this new property is a serious fixer upper!) I suspect I will end up doing more hauling than anything. I had a tree fall across my lane this weekend and I really wish I had something to haul the pieces away with! I've been looking for a few months and this has been the best deal I've seen, & I hear a Wheel Horse is a true work horse so I was thinking it could be a sound investment.

 

[Ed Kennell 40,820]

Sounds like you have made the decision to buy it, and that is OK.   I believe most of us feel you could find a better tractor for your needs at the same or lower price, but as the seller stated, maybe the engine has been rebuilt properly and only needs the fuel system repaired.  If you do use the tractor to pull a heavily loaded trailer, please exercise caution as the brakes are not very good on these tractors as only rear wheel will brake.

I am not a fan of the rocker plate engine mount either.   Personally, if I could only have one tractor, I would search for a  312 hydro with hydraulic lift and the Eaton 1100 transmission.     But rest assured, what ever you decide, we are here to help.    I would not attempt to run a blower especially on a stone road.  I would stay with the plow and call for help when the plow cannot handle that 1 or 2 major blizzards  each year.

 

Good Luck.

[DennisThornton 4,771]

Don't think you can go wrong for the money just that you might have to add more or trade to suit your needs.  That's assuming that your info is accurate. 

[Sarge 3,464]

I paid $300 for my last C-160 and ran it for 4yrs before the engine developed a knock - it had been previously overheated badly and has a cracked block . A C series that is more capable in both weight and power is what you're going to really need - a C-81 is going to come up pretty short . A 12-16hp Kohler single is going to be nearly double the torque output of the 8hp engine - the little small block 8hp is great but just not enough displacement to handle the level of work you need . Even pushing snow it will need front weights to make up for the lighter engine - I can throw an 8hp versus a trip to the chiropractor for picking up a big block Kohler .

 

Rebuilds I quoted are full-on shop built with labor,  genuine Kohler parts and a warranty - these guys are one the best shops in the entire Midwest and have been at the game for a very long time - no shortcuts taken , ever .

 

That does bring up another thing about engine rebuilds . Most experienced mechanics can easily handle a rebuild after a machine shop does the technical work of boring , ect to prep the engine for new parts . Now , the quality of those parts (aftermarket has about 3 levels of quality , all are not as good as genuine Koher) is one thing - but who assembled and fitted the parts ?? If you don't take the time to properly fit the rings , check the valve land width , measure the rod and size it to the crank , ect the engine will not last near as long as it should . Very tiny mistakes can cause catastrophic problems later and can render a usable block worthless in short order . I've seen too many "rebuilds" fail in just a few short years of service and only a handful that work as well as when they were new - most will never hit their correct cylinder pressure and hp output just due to sloppy fitment of the rings alone . The price on the little C isn't bad - you're mostly paying for the implements versus the tractor . A heavier big block model with the same attachments would be a deal at the given price but the market has been ticking upward again lately and in my opinion most are highly overpriced .

 

Just keep one thing in mind - no matter what - all these tractors have some age to them and nearly all will have an unknown history of owners . How they are cared for over time makes a difference and costs money to repair . I'd start with a basic , solid big block tractor with a blade and find a cheap cart - it will get you started and can do a lot more work than you'd ever imagine .

 

Sarge

[clueless 3,129]

  

[SCAVENGERGIRL 10]

11 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Sounds like you have made the decision to buy it, and that is OK.   I believe most of us feel you could find a better tractor for your needs at the same or lower price, but as the seller stated, maybe the engine has been rebuilt properly and only needs the fuel system repaired.  If you do use the tractor to pull a heavily loaded trailer, please exercise caution as the brakes are not very good on these tractors as only rear wheel will brake.

I am not a fan of the rocker plate engine mount either.   Personally, if I could only have one tractor, I would search for a  312 hydro with hydraulic lift and the Eaton 1100 transmission.     But rest assured, what ever you decide, we are here to help.    I would not attempt to run a blower especially on a stone road.  I would stay with the plow and call for help when the plow cannot handle that 1 or 2 major blizzards  each year.

 

Good Luck.

 

I definitely haven't decided yet, this has just been the most I found for the least amount of $$. I've already walked away from 3 tractors that I thought I would love because I learned enough to make a better decision. This one had me interested enough to reach out for advice & I'm more worried now than I was before.  

 

In the back of my mind I was seeing this as roughly a $350 tractor with 3 x $100 attachments (figures that could be debated, surely). If can get it running for another $100, then a $450 tractor. My thought is I could eventually sell it & upgrade to a more powerful tractor & I already have the attachments I want. My worry is that I won't be able to get it running & I'll take a loss on it. If so, I can sell it for $200 for parts & I'm still paying $450-550 for 3 attachments. 

Of course I wish I could just get whatever I wanted, but I can't afford to. I do have a 4wd & didn't need to plow at all last winter. I also haven't needed to mow this year, so I'm actually having a hard time justifying spending any amount on a tractor because I don't actually need it or even expect I'll use it that much. Really, I'm just tired of dragging my little red rider wagon around by hand.

 

I definitely appreciate the input and every bit of it is helping me learn more. If anyone happens to have the perfect tractor for me (& I am not set on a Wheel Horse) please reach out!

Edited August 10, 2017 by SCAVENGERGIRL

[Aldon 4,828]

Not sure how far your located front Pine Bush/Newburgh area of NY however I just posted a set up in classifieds that would seemingly cover 2/3's of your wish list. 14hp 8 speed with rebuilt snowblower. 

Edited August 10, 2017 by Aldon

[SCAVENGERGIRL 10]

A note on hiring someone to plow

14 minutes ago, Aldon said:

Not sure how far your located front Pine Bush/Newburgh area of NY however I just posted a set up in classifieds that would seemingly cover 2/3's of your wish list. 14hp 8 speed with rebuilt snowblower. 

 

Looks like you're about 3.5 hours away, definitely worth the consideration, but still a little more than I was hoping to spend. I'll keep it in mind, thanks!

[ohiofarmer 3,355]

 We really do not mean to scare you away from the purchase if you want to make it. What we worry about is that the seller could be hiding a condition problem with the engine. it is pretty lame of him to advertise a rebuilt engine that you cannot hear run.  Running when parked gives him wiggle room. Rebuilt and run for two years before it is parked gives him more. you really need to confirm that the engine runs before you buy it

 

 So here is what you do to actually hear that engine run.

 

 1. Take a good strong battery to the tractor. If his battery is no good, disconnect it and use jumper cables to hook your battery to the + and - wires on the tractor.[Don't jump your battery to his dead one] The tractor engine should turn over. Remove the air cleaner and open the choke. Spray about a 2 second burst of carb cleaner into the air intake which will bypass the carburetor. Close the choke and the engine should start. Once it starts, fire little bursts of carb cleaner into the open choke and it should continue to run.  The important thing to realize here is that carb cleaner is less volatile than gasoline or ether based starting fluid. Even at that have the garage door open so the tractor can be pushed outside or have a fire extinguisher handy.

 

2 If the engine runs, you can try a fuel tank held above the tractor by a pole wires from the ceiling or whatever. My portable tank [with safety shut-off] hangs from a hospital pole used for IV bottles This can be dangerous if something ignites, so think worst case scenario and make safe connections to the tractor.

 

 3. You should also verify that the engine produces a spark to the spark plug. [if the engine does not run from your efforts above] Just get an inline spark checker and place it between the plug and wire. Maybe a $15.00 item that can negotiate a hundred off the price. Points with oil on them will stop the spark, but so will a lot of other more expensive things like a bad coil. It took me a while to find out on my last purchase, but then became obvious that the PO tried to bodge the wiring and the coil was hot with the ign. switch on , but shut down when the starter was cranked.  no way should a "rebuilt motor have problems with wiring even if it has sat around.

 

4. If the seller starts to object to your completely non-invasive tests, share your concerns that he advertised a rebuilt motor that does not run.Also a good time to see the shop receipts. Tell him that you tend to take people at their word, but a non running engine is just that and it could hide some expensive problems. i love it when the seller says how the problems are easy to fix and will only take a bit of time to correct. Well, OK, i will grab a cup of coffee down the road and help you fix them when I get back. I usually respond that Shop rates are $80 or more an hour, and then politely offer him YOUR price. Be polite and say you understand that he may want to think about it. Leave your phone number and you may get a call back

 

5.When at all possible, buy from a farmer or retired guy.Older people tend to be more honest as do farmers. People who remember handshake deals mean something think enough of themselves not to compromise their reputation for money

 

BTW, my last purchase was a C-141 with deck [needing a few parts] and a nice snow blade for $200. I got it to run, but it needs a rebuild. Great deal for me, but a horrible buy for someone with no mechanical experience who hires all his wrenching done by others. Last fall, i got a very dirty C-121 one that had lived in farm dust, but ran like a top for $225

[stevasaurus 23,113]

@ohiofarmer that is some of the best advise I have ever read. 

[pfrederi 18,397]

Sage advice above....You are not going to get a pristine machine at this price point but it should be a runner

 

Edited August 10, 2017 by pfrederi

[clueless 3,129]

6 hours ago, SCAVENGERGIRL said:

A note on hiring someone to plow

 

Looks like you're about 3.5 hours away, definitely worth the consideration, but still a little more than I was hoping to spend. I'll keep it in mind, thanks!

I'm done!

[SCAVENGERGIRL 10]

I'd meant to mention earlier about the cost to plow the lane. I only got a few quotes last year but all were $250+. That's what started all this. 

 

Reading terms like cylinder pressure & choke make me very nervous about a non-running machine. I don't think I want to waste too much time or $$ on tractor problems.

 

I've never even used a snow blower, so why shouldn't it be used on stone? Does drag directly along the ground? Would a 2 stage work? 

 

 

[pfrederi 18,397]

I have a gravel/stone driveway. I plow almost 1/4 mile as you. There are wheels on the blower, keep them set high and you should be OK.  After a while the small snowfalls get packed down by your car and freeze up the loose rocks.  Biggest issue is a storm before or after the ground is frozen...you will throw a few rocks...I only bring out the blower for big accumulations,  smaller ones get run over or plowed.  I live in Northeast Pa and only use the blower 1 or 2 times per winter...some times none.  2 stages are very nice ...but they are very heavy..need more HP and cost more.  They throw the snow a long distance, from your description you do not need to throw yours very far to get it out of the way.

 

If choke is a strange term for you then buying a non-running tractor is probably not a great idea.  But it is nothing to be afraid of and if you are willing to try  they are very simple.

 

Some will say the rebuild wasn't a "professional" job...and frankly it probably was not .  if the engine runs doesn't smoke or  make banging noises it will probably last many hours but not a life time, ( how many times a year do you have to clear your lane., pulling a wagon will not stress it.) and at the price point we are talking about that is OK. 

 

You  need to talk to a local farmer with a tractor about plowing.  $250 is extreme.  I plow a couple for free and the young farmer down the hill is in the $25-case of beer range....

Edited August 11, 2017 by pfrederi

[ohiofarmer 3,355]

6 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

@ohiofarmer that is some of the best advise I have ever read. 

  I am not worthy of such recognition of perhaps the greatest celebrity that I will ever converse with 

 

 

 

 Is that laying it on a little thick??