My First Hydo/First Onan/Not Sure I Like It

[Bill D 2,103]

I recently picked up a 1994 (I think) 416 H.  At first I was going to sell it, and had it listed briefly.  Then I decided to keep it and fix it up.  I got it running, fixed the electrical problems, changed the axle seals, fuel lines, fuel filter and intalled a new idler pulley.  I was able to mow with it for about 1.5 hours and it did two things I didn't like.  

 

1.  It picks up speed going down hill unless I move the motion control lever back to slow it down.  ( I hate the lever).  I changed the oil (had ATF in it).  I need to change it again and change the filter.  The hydro is strong when hot.

2. The engine at one point began to rev up for no reason.  I shut it down, and then after stopping and starting it several times it ran normally for the remaining 45 min it took me to mow the lawn. Possible governer problems?  I stil need to change the oil and filter.  Should I use synthetic oil or run some sefoam in it and see if that cleans up any debris in the gov.  The oil thats in it now doesn't look that dirty but I know its needs to be changed.  The engine is strong and has 120psi in both cylinders.  Any advice is appreciated.  Thanks.

 

Bill 

[ericj 1,578]

unfortunately that is the nature of the beast to pick up speed going downhill, that's one advantage of a manual trans. once you get use to it it not so bad. As far as the engine over reving, I have found that engines that sit for a long while that they tend to do that. The good part of this that from my experience is that the more you run them it tends to go away or stop. If mine starts to over rev, I just push the throttle down some and run at lower RPM'S. for awhile then raise the throttle back up till it does it again. Like I said after several mowing's it stops doing it. good luck

 

 

 

 

eric j  

[Cee245 823]

Welcome to Red Square Bill...

 

Your correct in saying your 416h speeds up going down hill.  I have an almost identical 416h  (1997) and it does the same thing.

 

 Make sure to get that ATF OUT and keep 10w30 MOTOR OIL in the transmission as odd as that sounds.  Some prefer synthetic and I've used regular with out issues.

 

Not sure why the Onan would surge though.

 

A couple things to do maintenance wise are take off the engine tins and make sure everything is clean. Lots of gunk ect can build up in there creating dreaded too much heat!

 

Also give the carb a good cleaning and make sure the crankcase breather located under the air filter assembly is clean. That's all I got... Good Luck!

Cory

Edited July 31, 2017 by Cee245

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

I had a 416H with 2 stage blower that I used for years.Loved that tractor.Any time the engine started surging,I added some Seafoam to the gas.Of course,I used non-ethanol gas as soon as it became available here.Never noticed the tractor speeding up.Probably due to the heavy blower dragging on the ground.Sounds like you've done all the right work on yours so far to classify it as  " a keeper'"

[rmaynard 15,938]

I hated my 416-H hydro when I first got it, but after yanking out the lever speed control and replacing it with "Matt's Foot Pedal" kit, it's now my favorite tractor to drive. Total speed control, up or down hill.

[wrmhaste 235]

I agree with the foot pedal idea. Best investment for a hydro. And as far as engine reving check for vacuum leaks around the intake. Spraying carb cleaner works wonders. Cleans and diagnoses 

[Bill D 2,103]

Thanks for all the advice.  I plan to do these things when I have time.  This tractor still needs alot of work to be up to my standards.  Please keep the advice coming.  Thanks. 

[MalMac 1,332]

Is the engine surging or picking up RPM on its own to where you have to throttle it down to keep it from reving to high? If that is the case there is a good chance the govenor ball retainer is wore or has come loose and needs replaced. I know this is a problem with some of the P220's. I forget but there was a member on here that had a excellent post on fixing this problem.

[Bill D 2,103]

Hi,

 

The Engine Model # is P216G-I/10976C, The S/N is J893614597 and the Part # is 1175901.  Can any one tell me what year it is?  Also, it needed plug wires when I bought it.  I only had the material to make a set of solid core wires. Can I use these long term or do I need to get a set of suppression core wires to avoid burning out the coil?  I plan to check the intake with carb cleaner as suggested when I have time.   Does it have a 5 ball governor or 10 ball governor? 

 

  I should also mention that I have several other tractors.  I have a 1988 312-8, 1983 GT1642 ( gave that one to my father-in-law), 1987 310-8 (with swapped in KT17 from a parted out 1986 417-8) and my father has a 1996 312-8.  I also parted out a 1984 314-8 that I bought it with out hearing it run.  The motor has "Kohler Knock" and needs a rebuild.  I also have an M10 I may rebuild if necessary.  It burns a quart an hour.

 

Onans are new to me, so any and all advice is appreciated.  Thanks.     

[6bg6ga 272]

7 hours ago, Bill D said:

Hi,

 

The Engine Model # is P216G-I/10976C, The S/N is J893614597 and the Part # is 1175901.  Can any one tell me what year it is?  Also, it needed plug wires when I bought it.  I only had the material to make a set of solid core wires. Can I use these long term or do I need to get a set of suppression core wires to avoid burning out the coil?  I plan to check the intake with carb cleaner as suggested when I have time.   Does it have a 5 ball governor or 10 ball governor? 

 

  I should also mention that I have several other tractors.  I have a 1988 312-8, 1983 GT1642 ( gave that one to my father-in-law), 1987 310-8 (with swapped in KT17 from a parted out 1986 417-8) and my father has a 1996 312-8.  I also parted out a 1984 314-8 that I bought it with out hearing it run.  The motor has "Kohler Knock" and needs a rebuild.  I also have an M10 I may rebuild if necessary.  It burns a quart an hour.

 

Onans are new to me, so any and all advice is appreciated.  Thanks.     

 

Some will probably disagree with me on this but I see no need to change to suppression core ( resistance spark plug wires). The suppression wires first came out during the early years of engine smog controls primarily to curb interference on your TV set. The resistance that is available in the resistance wires does nothing to add to the life of your ignition coil. It will work fine with or without it. I've used it for years with small engines that have ignition points and a ignition coil. It will however can cause a slight noise pattern on a TV if it is near the engine when it is running.

The main thing when selecting a coil is to have a coil with the correct primary and secondary resistance parameters.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,270]

8 hours ago, Bill D said:

The Engine Model # is P216G-I/10976C

This engine is listed as being used 1990-1992

 

Garry

 

[Bill D 2,103]

Thanks for the info Garry.  I took the cover off the motor and cleaned the crud out of the inside.  The wire cover for the pickup had been rubbed thru, so I repaired it.  It has to be one of the most annoying motors I have ever worked on.  I have never had to take off so many other parts just to get the cover off.  My KT17 would be a close second.  I plan to check the manifold for leaks next week if I have time.  The engine is not surging, it just sped up the one time I mowed with it.  I did take the top of the carb off and cleaned it when I first got it.  It was actually quite clean inside considering that it had been sitting outside for several years.  I also set the RPM's on it and repaired the throttle cable.  The pivot was loose and  the throttle would come down on its own.  I drilled out the rivet and replaced it with a bolt and lock nut.