jmunzke 1 #1 Posted June 18, 2017 Well all was running great until I took the compressor to blow some of the dust and grass away from the engine. Engine won't start. I can jump a wire from the + terminal to the solenoid, turn the key, and it will start. Remove the jumper and it dies. I haven't found any loose connections. The 3 fuses are good. The PTO is not engaged. Battery is new and charged. Something is failing between the key switch and the solenoid, where should I start? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499 #2 Posted June 18, 2017 Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmunzke 1 #3 Posted June 19, 2017 This would be a great start, if I was more mechanically inclined. Is there any way to dumb it down. The schematics are a bit, ......abstract. ....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #4 Posted June 19, 2017 Sure sounds like a safety switch is not making, whether the PTO, brake pedal, motion control lever, or seat, I had a motion control switch that was actually "good" but the actuator arm had broken off so it was making the circuit needing a jumper wire to start with the key, only took me a month to find/figure it out, Jeff. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499 #5 Posted June 19, 2017 This section of the huge Demystification Guide explains how the illustrations work starting on page 2-5. Two circles joined by a line (o---o) indicate a switch or relay is closed meaning power can flow through it from contact to contact. If two circles are not joined (o-/ o) the switch or relay is open so power can not flow from contact to contact. There are two pto switches. One controls the ignition and the other controls the starter. You need to use the wire colors to identify which switch does what. For the starter The ignition switch needs to power the S terminal of the ignition switch which powers the pto switch which powers the neutral switch which powers the relay coil that produces a magnet that draws the contacts in the relay closed which powers the starter. For the ignition The ignition switch needs to power the I (eye) terminal of the ignition switch which powers the pto switch which powers the seat switch which powers the ignition coil. A common problem is the 8 or 9 pin connector that joins the tractor wiring harness to the engine wiring harness. The plastic connector is white so if one of the wire connectors has overheated it leaves discoloration at that point indicating a poor electrical connection. From your description of the problem I can't tell if the starter circuit or the ignition circuit is your problem. Also make sure the ignition switch is getting battery power on the B terminal. A simple 12 volt test light is all you need. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #6 Posted June 19, 2017 You may have blown some chaff into one of the safety switches or knocked a connection loose. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmunzke 1 #7 Posted June 19, 2017 Thanks for the great info. So far switches seem to be mechanically operable. 9 pin looks ok. I found this (see pictures) which looks like a chip or relay? Has a burned white wire going into it. What is it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,783 #8 Posted June 19, 2017 It's the voltage regulator, you need to fix that. Probably not the issue you are after, but still needs done. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmunzke 1 #9 Posted June 20, 2017 Eureka! Thanks to all the advice here for the novice visual learner. After checking all the switches, unplugging and re-plugging every electrical connection, and generally just trying to clean things up in there; I discovered the issue, or part of the issue. The PO put an inline fuse holder for glass fuses. The holder was not holding the connection tight enough to engage the fuse. I changed it out for a flat fuse style. Voila. And I didn't change the regulator, but put a new blade where it looked like it had been shorting, Will keep an eye on that. Napa says those regulators are 85 bucks! Does anyone have a more affordable solution should I need one? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #10 Posted June 20, 2017 2 hours ago, jmunzke said: And I didn't change the regulator, but put a new blade where it looked like it had been shorting, Will keep an eye on that. Napa says those regulators are 85 bucks! Does anyone have a more affordable solution should I need one? Yes sir, eBay or Amazon $10-20 and yes I have an eBay version on one of mine and so far no complaints, Jeff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walhonding520 25 #11 Posted July 12, 2017 Would you have a art number for that eBay regulator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499 #12 Posted July 12, 2017 The charging system on the Onan's is 20 amp so the regulator needs to be rated at 20 amp. http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/parts/nn10261/ I doubt you need a regulator. The discolored terminal indicates that one was over heated which is caused by a loose or corroded terminal. Clean it up and tighten the terminal slightly so it has a tighter fit on the regulator. The point of resistance could be between the wire and the terminal which would require replacement of the terminal on the wire to correct it. I like to solder the connections after a new terminal for a life-long repair. Keep an eye on it. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #13 Posted July 12, 2017 9 hours ago, Walhonding520 said: Would you have a art number for that eBay regulator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites