giantsean 59 #1 Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) Hey All,First post! I have been casually looking for a tractor to help me move dirt and prep part of the yard for a new lawn. Ideally I'd have both a FLE and a plow but since I am looking at rear tine tillers as well, a PTO/tiller would also be a nice to have.I am checking out three local offerings: {link removed}This D200 has an FLE and a bunch of interesting stuff, and seems reasonable in price (comparatively){link removed}This D200 looks a little rougher but has a lot of useful stuff, plow/PTO/tiller but no FLE{link removed}This D180 looks nice, has an FLE but not much else, and is much higher in price (and a smaller bucket than option 1)I have seen plows and some other stuff for individual sale but no FLE's yet, so it comes down to which one seems like the best value, and how hard it is to find an FLE if I go for option 2. I'm literally just starting learning about the line now (was looking at Economys and Fords before), so hopefully you guys more in the know about the WH line can offer some guidance and advice.Thanks for any help! Edited June 8, 2017 by nylyon Links removed based on forum rules 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,733 #2 Posted June 8, 2017 Some folks will be along who know about FEL's etc. as well as the "D" experts...You are at the right site for all things wheel horse... FYI - the Mods will remove links to other sites... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
artfull dodger 440 #3 Posted June 8, 2017 save the images to your computer, then upload them to somewhere like photobucket or another photo hosting site. Atleast that is how I post pics here. Welcome aboard. Generaly, get the nicest condition tractor you can. Keep in mind that the cost to overhaul the Onan or Kohler twins is no small amount if done correctly. So if the motor hasn't been rebuilt with reciepts to prove parts and labor, then factor that into the price/offer. Plows, tillers and such are easier found than the front end loader. I would get one with the loader and then look for attachments. Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498 #5 Posted June 8, 2017 best of luck with your hunt. Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #6 Posted June 8, 2017 Thanks... that was quick! Ok in absence of links I can post some descriptions (hopefully the names to pics come through) WH1 D200 FEL - asking 3200 for all - "Runs and drives great, tires hold air and have good tread. comes with wheel weights, 3 pt hitch, rear pto, and a mowing deck if i get asking price, deck has a few holes but cuts and works. Has rare turning brakes. Loader is strong, quick, and doesn't need anything. If you don't know what this machine is and want to low ball pass on, no need to get rid of it. I will separate the loader from the tractor and sell tractor separately. Give me 2800 and you get the tractor with no deck, no turning brakes and no rear pto. Again, runs and drives great, starts immeaditly, new carb kit, coil, switch, points, and condensor. Turn Key! everything works. Let me know. I will sell tractor with or without loader, but WILL NOT SELL LOADER WITHOUT TRACTOR. " My note - the only thing I don't like about this one is ags vs turf tires - trying to keep what's good on my lawn in tact lol WH2 D200 - asking 1500 for all - "My Aunt has finally decided to part with my Uncle's 1976 Wheel Horse D-200 Automatic Lawn & Garden Tractor. He purchased it new and it has not been used in many years. It does start, seems to run well and moves back and forth... Kohler 20hp engine. Comes with Owner's manual. Has Rear PTO, 3-point hitch and comes with the 48" mower deck, Transmission cooling fan, 56" Snow/Dozer Blade, and Tiller attachment. Pictures give you a good idea of what is there. Can be seen at my workplace in Berlin CT during business hours. $1500.00" WH3 D180 FEL (the one w/ the cab) - asking 4700 obo - Wheelhorse D180 garden tractor with cab. Heavy duty, beautiful, classic machine, very well cared for and always garaged. Also includes doors for cab that aren't shown. Great show piece or ready to work. Bucket loader, rear PTO, 3 pt hitch, new tires this year, with chains. Thanks again!!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,295 #7 Posted June 8, 2017 Unless you ABSOLUTELY have to have the FEL right now I would jump on #2 in a hurry! The Kohler engine is worth the $ 1500, you get the rest for free! You should be able to pick up a loader for around $ 1500 later on. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #8 Posted June 8, 2017 Jeez I can't give my d200 away with loader, power steering, 3pt, rear pto and predator twin engine. Clearly I'm in the wrong part of the country. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #9 Posted June 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, 82Caddy said: Jeez I can't give my d200 away with loader, power steering, 3pt, rear pto and predator twin engine. Clearly I'm in the wrong part of the country. Give it to me! I'll be there in several days Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #10 Posted June 8, 2017 Ok... contacted the #2 candidate and will hopefully be able to check it out tomorrow. Any advice for what to check? I have better than average mechanical knowledge and I think I could hear a problem w/ a tractor engine, but anything specific to the brand/model, or parts that might not be there (besides a front grill lol)? This is the net of what I've learned about WH's in the last couple of days I've been at this: - 1" spindles are better than 3/4" for FEL's (not sure how model specific that is though) - Rebuilding this engine is expensive - Front end/steering gets sloppy on these over time - Good luck finding a gearbox if it goes bad I guess what concerns me most is that it was sitting for a long period and the best they can say is "it goes back and forth" vs. the others w/ FEL at least have a tune up record / recent work and/or appear to be in pretty sweet shape, just the cost is more obviously. If "#2" is a good candidate for a restoration it's something I like doing, just have to watch out that we are not passing the sweet spot of "buy it already done" as far as cost. Thx again! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DTOM 124 #11 Posted June 8, 2017 WH2 is your choice. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #12 Posted June 8, 2017 You have plenty of options out there. D-series are the biggest and more $$. C-series (with bigger horizontal Kohlers will get job done as well). Then there are the later WH/Toro vertical Magnum 14+hp tractors that work too! Just my:!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #13 Posted June 8, 2017 2 hours ago, giantsean said: Give it to me! I'll be there in several days Come give me 2k for it and it's yours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,295 #14 Posted June 8, 2017 32 minutes ago, giantsean said: Any advice for what to check? The best way to check out the transmission is to drive it around until warmed up then chain it to a tree and see if it will dig in in both directions. The fact that it has been setting for a while shouldn't have hurt it, looks like it was well cared for and stored inside. The fact that it hasn't had a loader on it is a plus in my book, lots of loader tractors are worked hard and will require more parts replacement. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #15 Posted June 9, 2017 (edited) Thanks everyone! So I figure I will bring a tow strap to check the tranny (hopefully they have trees). Is it worth doing a compression check on it? From what I can find from a few mins of googling I'm looking for ~110-120psi on a cylinder. Hopefully not a weird thread or plug size. @ Caddy... let me check out your wares Edited June 9, 2017 by giantsean 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #16 Posted June 9, 2017 I'm in Minnesota and there's a sale thread around here someplace for my tractor. About the ones you're looking at: Another option to check transmission and hydraulics is to try and push your truck or a retaining wall. Just something that won't move easily. Theres lots of little things to check on these tractors. Look at the bottom of the rear end casing. The bolts in the differential that shear and break out the bottom of the case. Steering, just google Ross steering box and you'll find more then you ever wanted to know. There is also a bell crank (under engine) that likes to wear. Check the coupler from engine to hydraulic pump for wear and wobble. There are splines on the pump that cannot be repaired without much effort. Then there is the obvious looking for leaks and clear signs of abuse or neglect. I'm sure there is more but that's all I can think of right now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #17 Posted June 9, 2017 Here's the rest of the pics from the ad for WH2 BTW: 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #18 Posted June 9, 2017 (edited) Welp... I came, I saw, I purchased. $1250 for the lot. I checked all I could and here's the basic scorecard: The good: - Fires up on the first crank - Runs strong and smoov, no noises, no smoke - Tires in fairly good shape, no dry rot, very solid - No heavy rust, no leaks and no wipes/obvious cleanups - No visible slop or play between engine and hydraulic pump - Pulls an F250 in neutral like it isn't even trying - when said F250 is in park it lights up the tires like race day - Hitch, middeck, lights, PTO all work properly (or as properly as I could figure, never having had a full sized tractor :P) - Accessories seem in good shape - can turn the tiller by cranking the stub w/ my hand and it turns smooth. No heavy rust other than normal - Manuals for everything The bad: - No grille - Front belt is a little sloppy (made much easier to witness thanks to no grille) - Parking brake does not appear to do anything - Did a compression test and got about 70-75ish on each cylinder. However it did not smoke at all and ran so strong that it made me suspect that I might have done the test improperly. I definitely did not have it at WOT which I just read is important, and also read that it may be as easy as exhaust valve adjustment. At any rate I used it as some leverage when negotiating. - There is a shaft where the steering linkage connects which seems to be deflecting, causing some play in the steering wheel (probably the same wear to which Caddy was referring in the above post). Tie rod ends and other linkage works and moves properly w/o play. I suspect (hope) it is a bushing or something of that nature and not a huge deal. - Was more or less a garage find so the risk of missing stuff bits and bobs is higher Hopefully it will work out well and I got a good deal. Thanks again for the help, and I guess you'll see me around a lot more now Thx, Sean Edited June 9, 2017 by giantsean 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,295 #19 Posted June 10, 2017 You done good! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #20 Posted June 10, 2017 Thank you! I failed to remember one more "con"... the hour counter was pegged at "0000" and doesn't move. Since the seller was not the owner (his deceased uncle was - he is selling for his aunt) he assumed it had been replaced at some point... hopefully they can't turn over! Since he was unaware of whether the engine had ever been rebuilt (but doubted it) I am assuming it will need an overhaul some day. But for now it seems to run pretty nicely. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites