953/1054 grader attachment?

[TravelinJavelin 620]

I know i'm full of questions with this model trying to figure out stuff and was available at the time with this machine so anyways I thought this was arear grader well come to find out its mid mount so was this this offered for these models then? been looking through back log posts and can't nothing any where about graders on this model of machine?

[953 nut 58,200]

It is a mid mount and you will need to add a "Mid-mount Atach-O-Matic to the frame, not a real big job.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,274]

The first grader blade was offered as a 1965 model but that does not mean it won't fit earlier models.

This one is described as pulled because it attached to the mid quick hitch. Later when they went to 50" they were pushed from the quick hitch attached to the rear axle housing. Same hitch for the dozer blade.

 

There is an attachment list for the 953 here

Download the Details & Attachments (D&A) file

Since the 1054 and 1054A are the same basic design

Garry

[953 nut 58,200]

Yours is the older mid mount type.

[TravelinJavelin 620]

ahhhh ok this solves the problem now i'd like to use it but how would that work with the hydraulic lift situation after the mid mount attachmatic?

[pfrederi 18,379]

That mid mount will work with the hydro lift. I had one on a Electro 12.  However.  I found I liked the better control I had with it mounted on a gear drive tractor.

[DennisThornton 4,771]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

That mid mount will work with the hydro lift. I had one on a Electro 12.  However.  I found I liked the better control I had with it mounted on a gear drive tractor.

Details please?  Why did you prefer the geared tractor?

[pfrederi 18,379]

1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

Details please?  Why did you prefer the geared tractor?

 

The hydro lift will push the mid mount down with such force it will lift the rear wheels of the tractor off the ground.

 

Grading hard stuff (clay) you have to balance the down pressure against the traction you lose hen you increase the down pressure.  the hydro is hard for me to get that balance especially as the dirt condition's change over a distance.   I can push forward more quickly and accurately on the lift arm to increase pressure and pull back equally quickly to regain traction.  With the  hydro I always seemed to be over adjusting..

[TravelinJavelin 620]

I wondered about that hydraulic situation but then my 953 is geared now one other question I have a mid mount on c-120 would this hook up on the 953?

[953 nut 58,200]

Your C-120 mid mount will work just fine, measure the distance from the front of the frame and drill like holes in the 953 frame.

8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

hydro lift will push the mid mount down with such force it will lift the rear wheels of the tractor off the ground

The 953 doesn't have a float position on the hydraulics, I changed over to a chain to lift my mid grader blade when it is on the 953.

[TravelinJavelin 620]

yeah I was just out in my garage and did a test fit on the C-120 and worked out slicker then snot on a sneaker LOL! just got to get about 3 chain lengths to pick up right on it dam this works out well so what I 'll do just concentrate on a snowplow and a brinly type unit for the 953 ...........nut and everyone else thank you for all the advice you guys are truly are a great bunch of guys !

Edited May 23, 2017 by TravelinJavelin

[DennisThornton 4,771]

11 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

The hydro lift will push the mid mount down with such force it will lift the rear wheels of the tractor off the ground.

 

Grading hard stuff (clay) you have to balance the down pressure against the traction you lose hen you increase the down pressure.  the hydro is hard for me to get that balance especially as the dirt condition's change over a distance.   I can push forward more quickly and accurately on the lift arm to increase pressure and pull back equally quickly to regain traction.  With the  hydro I always seemed to be over adjusting..

Then I feel that same about the front dozer/snow blade.  I would not give up my "Strong Arm Lift" for a hydraulic!  Not for fine control work at least!

 

Thanks!

[Sarge 3,464]

There are a lot of differences in those hydraulic valves - I've found out the hard way that controlling a blade or something on the old 1277 is much easier than on the newer C and D series tractors I have , much more finesse to the older valve design , perhaps due to smaller ports/lines and the volume flow in the system in relation to the hydro pumps themselves . I can use the mid-mount grader on the 1277 and get a very fine taper when grading stuff to level or cutting in to remove material , be it rock , dirt or whatever . Moving snow or doing grade work on the big D has been a challenge , probably mostly due to how I rebuilt the blade and it's new 1055 cutting edge , it's , uh , rather heavy ....lol .

 

Sarge

[DennisThornton 4,771]

I can understand what Sarge is saying and I think that it's very important for someone thinking that a hydro lift is a must have improvement.  Surely for a snowblower, most rear implements and mower deck but I would never give up my manual dozer blade and now I gather I'd want my future grader blade to be on a manual lift tractor as well.

 

Thanks guys!

[TravelinJavelin 620]

well I wonder if you had control system with a float in it could be a big difference.........I have to be honest when I get my pump rebuilt on my 953 I am anctous to try it

[Lee1977 7,052]

On 5/22/2017 at 9:49 PM, TravelinJavelin said:

yeah I was just out in my garage and did a test fit on the C-120 and worked out slicker then snot on a sneaker LOL! just got to get about 3 chain lengths to pick up right on it dam this works out well so what I 'll do just concentrate on a snowplow and a brinly type unit for the 953 ...........nut and everyone else thank you for all the advice you guys are truly are a great bunch of guys !

 

You will need a solid link on the C-120 to have down pressure. My grader is home made and have used it on my C-120 and my 312-8. It works better on the 312-8 as the lift arm extends out from the tractor and I can use my foot on it for down pressure. I have tried that on my C-120 as its my mowing tractor. For the mid mount grader blade I think an auto tractor with the manual lift would be the best set up.

 

And add a foot control to the auto.

Edited May 24, 2017 by Lee1977

[TravelinJavelin 620]

well I 'll get a solid lift bar and try it if not i'll take the mid mount out and slap in on the 953 and try the hydraulics

[Sarge 3,464]

If you put a short slot in the blade end of the lift link , say 1" long - that will give it a certain amount of float and still allow down pressure when needed . If I can get time , I have a 5' long section of a small road grader blade here that's nearly 1.25" thick and may build a center grader out of that for the big D - but I want an acme rod adjuster for pitch or perhaps run a second hydraulic valve for that as well . It's a challenge to use a center blade and cut vee ditches and such , but it can be done albeit it takes more time . The biggest thing the original blade lacks is the ability to roll the blade angle for cutting action or leveling action IMHO . I've spent a lot of years with the Operators doing grade work and watching a good blade man do his craft is an awesome thing - but without a functional machine it's tough to duplicate on a smaller scale .

 

I've used the old 1277 quite a lot for leveling baseball infields including building the pitcher's mound . The lime cuts easily enough but the blade roll angle is mostly designed for very light cutting and mostly just packing in the material with no real cutting edge on it . If I build one , it will use the same cutting edge I put on the D's 54" front blade - tipped back that thing will cut packed rock and hard clay quite well albeit a bit tough to control depth of cut . Need to add some real suitcase weights or something for better traction as well - it will dig some serious holes in a hurry if pushed hard .

 

 

Sarge