farsidejunky 2 #1 Posted May 21, 2017 So, my father-in-law downsized homes two years ago. The benefit was that he no longer needed his Wheel Horse 73400 mower 314-8 with a 78345 42" mower, which was given to me. The in-laws rock. So I dug into replacing the belts today as they were worn. I have a problem and a concern. Problem: I am getting belt interference from either the foot plate or the plate the foot plate mounts to. It is not from the belt guide that bolts under the foot plate as I removed it and still had the same problem. When I removed the foot and other plates, it stopped. Is there some trick I am missing to solve the problem? Even with the mower removed, it is difficult to see where the interference may be occurring. Concern: There is very little pressure from the drive belt tension hydraulic piston/clutch. Should this be super easy to compress, or somewhat difficult? It also sticks when depressed completely. Could they be related? Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358 #2 Posted May 21, 2017 What are you getting? A noise you suspect is the belt rattling on the belt guard? The gas cylinder damper might have failed. They where added to prevent the belt from engaging too fast causing a wheelie. You could try adding a 108035 spring to the left side that was used before they went to the gas shock. Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,867 #3 Posted May 21, 2017 I believe I'm correct in saying that your tractor doesn't have the spring that Garry is referring to on the left side. You just have a gas dampened spring on the right side. Having issues with that setup they came out with the damper kit which put the spring back in and utilized a non-tensioned damper to slow things down. That's what came on my 2005. It drove me nuts so I removed the damper and just used the spring just like what has worked fine for decades. I'm thinking that will solve your problem. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farsidejunky 2 #4 Posted May 21, 2017 2 hours ago, gwest_ca said: What are you getting? A noise you suspect is the belt rattling on the belt guard? The gas cylinder damper might have failed. They where added to prevent the belt from engaging too fast causing a wheelie. You could try adding a 108035 spring to the left side that was used before they went to the gas shock. Garry What I am getting is rubbing of the belt on either the foot plate or the vertical plate that connects the foot plate to the shift plate. When out of gear and the clutch released, the belt is rubbing against something. It is hard to tell which one even when off because most of the parts close to the belt have rub marks with no remaining paint from the past. I will order the spring as suggested. Thank you for that. My concern is if the problems are related, or if I even have a problem with the cylinder at all. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,867 #5 Posted May 21, 2017 The rub marks on the belt guard are normal. The guard is used to stop the belt when you depress the clutch. That is why the first response to someone asks why his drive belt won't stop or the gears grind when shifting is "do you have the belt guard on?". By putting the spring on and removing the damper will eliminate one possible source of your problem. I think Garry is on the same page as me in thinking that your belt isn't getting enough tension and 'flopping' some. Let us know what you have when you get the spring. In any case it should be a simple fix. Another thing, I'd suggest using only a TORO drive belt. It does more than a belt that you install and tighten up. I'm sure there are other belts that will work but for the drive belt it's always Toro for me. They aren't that much more and headaches can be avoided. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farsidejunky 2 #6 Posted May 21, 2017 19 minutes ago, Racinbob said: The rub marks on the belt guard are normal. The guard is used to stop the belt when you depress the clutch. That is why the first response to someone asks why his drive belt won't stop or the gears grind when shifting is "do you have the belt guard on?". By putting the spring on and removing the damper will eliminate one possible source of your problem. I think Garry is on the same page as me in thinking that your belt isn't getting enough tension and 'flopping' some. Let us know what you have when you get the spring. In any case it should be a simple fix. Another thing, I'd suggest using only a TORO drive belt. It does more than a belt that you install and tighten up. I'm sure there are other belts that will work but for the drive belt it's always Toro for me. They aren't that much more and headaches can be avoided. The drive belt I installed is not a Toro. It is the AutoZone standard brand and it is escaping me ATM (not Gates or Napa). The drive belt was not in bad shape at all. Maybe I will put it back on and test it. I will still order the spring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,517 #7 Posted May 21, 2017 I use Gates green belts for deck, snow blowers etc...even hydros...but for Manual Trannies I stick with OEM.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,867 #8 Posted May 21, 2017 40 minutes ago, farsidejunky said: The drive belt I installed is not a Toro. It is the AutoZone standard brand and it is escaping me ATM (not Gates or Napa). The drive belt was not in bad shape at all. Maybe I will put it back on and test it. I will still order the spring. I doubt that is causing your issues but it might be iffy for actual use. Like Paul said, other brands are fine for attachments and hydros because those are installed and the tension set. On a manual the belt has to have the proper 'slippage' to make clutching and stopping the belt work properly. Also keep in mind that your original belt may look ok but isn't. When I removed the damper from mine I had a lot of pulsation in the clutch pedal. The belt looked fine and I was a bit befuzzled. I bought a new Toro belt and all was good. That belt is on it's 8th year and still going strong. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #9 Posted May 21, 2017 I have a 314-8 and it had the belt slop from the piston being to weak so I ordered the spring and got the toro belt. It was rubbing on the belt gard untill I added the spring. So what the guys are saying is the exact thing I did. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farsidejunky 2 #10 Posted May 22, 2017 (edited) I tried to purchase the spring from the Toro site tonight. I got this page when I clicked "Buy It Now" on part number 108035. I was able to find the kit with no problems. Any thoughts on another source for the spring? Edited May 22, 2017 by farsidejunky Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chip61 664 #11 Posted May 22, 2017 Put that part # in an Amazon search Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farsidejunky 2 #12 Posted May 31, 2017 Spring and OEM belt installed tonight. No interference. Thanks a bunch for the wisdom and tips, folks. It runs smooth! It's a good thing as my other mower, a Yanmar YM2000B with a finish mower, just sprung a radiator leak. On to the next project... Thanks again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
