Snow blower chain derailment

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I went out a snow blowin this after noon.... :banana:

That thing works nicely, though it does make th 12 HP Kohler a work a bit.

Aaaaannyway.... I was about 3/4 of the way around the block when the blower quit working - I assumed a clog but no luck getting it clear.

Rather than go all the way back around I rode it home in the road, and got a better look in the garage and the chain is off.

At first glance it does not look too easy to get too, but once my toes warm up I'll have a look at the explode parts diagram.

In the meanwhile, any tips would be appreciated.

:whistle:

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I would think there is a moveable tensioning cog on there.

Needs to be loosened up and pivoted so you can get the

chain back on. Now that said here is the disclaimer.

I read that on some previous post some time ago.

It may or may not apply to all snowblowers.

[Kelly 1,033]

Make sure you look at the teeth on the drive gear ( the one on the shaft) I have one that I can't keep the chain on, because the PO left the chain loose and the chain rode up the teeth and wore them down, I have another blower I use, but some day I need to change the gear to make that one useable.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,527]

i have one listed on ebay and the same thing happened. on mine it looked like there should be a dowl pin that the po just put a bent nail in at the end of the shaft so there is play sideways on the shaft. it looks like there should be a collar with a set screw that is not there on the end of the shaft. the blowers seam like too much moving parts to break so i stick with the plow. i know there are certian situations that a blower is better however you have to deal with the maintenance. good luck-

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

:whistle: Thanks Guys. I'll get a better look this evening after work.

I did look at the parts list and it looks like the idler should be fairly accessible. I'll get a good look at the chain and sprockets too.

As I fell asleep last night I came up with an idea for the chute adjust - instead of redoing it with cable I think I will try using chain instead (the flat metal chain used for sash weights). Not sure when I will get to that project though. For now I would be happy to get the drive fixed again!

:thumbs:

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Today' report:

The small lower front sprocket is indeed adjustable.

Of course as according to Murphy's Law the gap between the main sprocket and the frame is just big enough for the chain to get wedged in between the two.

I got it all back together with as much tension as I could get given I only have 2 hands.

I used it for about 5 minutes hacking at the pile at the end of the driveway and the chain came off again

The chain and sprockets still have red paint on them and there is no obvious wear.

Once I get the chain unrapped (again) I'll look at the big sproket on the auger, maybe it is slightly bent or something.

I will then re-assemble with a helper to get more tension . Wish me luck.

:omg:

[Duff 206]

Rolf, a couple of things come to mind.

First, when you do get the chain back on, with moderate tension you should be able to spin things by hand and the chain will maintain a constant tension if everything is running true. If it alternately binds then goes loose, something is indeed bent and will have to be fixed before the chain-throwing problem goes away for good.

The other thing, and here I'm shooting in the dark since I don't have any experience with WH chain drives.....are the sprockets on keyed shafts where they could slide sideways at all? If they are and one has a loose set screw, it could be "shucking" under load and tossing the chain.

JMHO based only on what I've seen happen with some old walk-behind chuckers....

I'd like some input from the pros here, but I've heard it's not a good idea to run a chain at too much tension. Guys?

Duff

EDIT: I just re-read Stevebo's post about someone using a nail to hold a shaft in place instead of the proper pin, so that could be related.....

[Cody 277]

Is the chain twisted? I would take the chain off and lay it down on a flat surface, that would tell you if it is indeed twisted. Usually in all of the cases iv seen usually once the chain is thrown off it tends to bend or twist . Thats just my thought

[catman81056 3]

Chain is cheap enough that you might just replace it. I bought a 10' roll of #40 with master link at the local Rural King for $12.00. That way you could rule out the chain.

[pfrederi 18,633]

With roller chains you do not want them super tight. Just enough to get the slack out.

Run it for a minute or two watching for slapping, then check it again for tension.

I agree with others if you threw the chain (especially 2 times) it may be twisted and you should probably replace it .

also look long and hard at the alignment of the sprockets. Use a straight edge or straight rod especially between the drive sprocket and the auger. Is there any side movement in your auger (bad bearings???)

On one of my blowers there were mismatched washers under the idler sprockets...didn't realize it until I threw a chain and then looked at them with a straight edge...

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Folks,

thanks for the ideas. It id turn freely, but I did not turn it all the way through the length of the auger sprocket much less the length of the chain.

I did think about end play on the auger so I plan on checking that.

The drive sprocket is on a shaft so it makes sense to check that.

I did not realize roller chain could get twisted. I'm in an urban area so there is no TSC or Rural Kind particularly convenient. However I will at least try and eyeball that as well.

I did note the two idlers have different spacing, one gets a spacer as well as the washers. That is because one mounts on a bubble indentation of the side plate and the other does not. So at least I got the right.

Not easy to get a straight edge in there but at least the 3 of the 4 sprokets you can see LOOKED to line up nicely.

for the :banana:

:whistle:

[pfrederi 18,633]

I did not realize roller chain could get twisted. I'm in an urban area so there is no TSC or Rural Kind particularly convenient. However I will at least try and eyeball that as well.

Check out McMaster-Carr. (they aren't cheap but usually have higher quality stuff) if I order by 6pm I get it the next day...and their shipping is reasonable

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Folks

As I pondered the big picture I factored in some other factors

-When the chain came off the first time I also happened to notice that the height adjust lever (connected to the axle) had moved and indeed was not locking properly. At the time I thought there was some snow behind it or maybe it was bent.

-Since I got it the weld between the side and the top on the right side was broken at the very front of that seam.

-Finally, I had noticed that the side plates (drift cutters) tend to catch if there was hardened snow along the side (as from previous plowing).

Yesterday I was able to examine the blower in daylight. I found no end play in the auger and all the sprockets seemed to align properly.

Based on the first two observations I looked at the axle carefully. I pushed the adjustment level side inwards and at the other end check the wheel lever and found some play. I though the split pin might be broken though it wasn't.

Today placed some shim washers between the side of the blower and the wheel lever and tightened things up. I also flipped over the drift cutters. I fired it up and instantly the master link came loose.

I went to TSC (about an hour away and got some chain (thanks for the heads up on that - 10 feet for $17 seems reasonable).

I installed the chain and discovered how impossible it is to blow slush with a single stage unit. Yeah, I could move it but it would require constant unclogging. I should be a lot better once it cools down again.

However, the shakedown continued. The flat belt idler seized!

So either I am down for a couple of days (more), or back to TSC, or go to my local dealer and pay through the nose (actually if I bring $15 cash and offer it to him he might bite).

Arghh

Thanks for the input folks

:thumbs:

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I might have pinpointed your problem.

You said your welds were broken on the tunnel/sidewall?

Well...it is possible that when your blower gets pulled off

to one side when getting caught on a snowbank.....it

is twisting or bending portions of the sidewall enough

to "missalign" the sprockets and the chain pops off.

Now I don't advocate that anyone try this like I would....lol

I would put the chain on....fire up the blower and while

standing in front and off to one side...grab one of the

drift cutters and pull it hard to the side and see if the chain

comes off.

That's just me......don't want to see anyone else get hurt....

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

:lol: Today the idler pulley arrived. I left on the belt burned when the idler froze up (though I did buy a spare).

All is working

After carefully observing the unit while blowing today I can see that the broken weld does move more than I had originally thought.

I had though this break was due to being lifted by the auger adjust control piece. Now I realize to must have originally been damaged by hitting something.

I'll get it welded at some point, but in the meanwhile the shim washers are working to keep the auger in-line and the chain on. It worked well today and I got through some pretty chunky stuff.

My next task will be an experiment using pressed metal chain as a substitute for cable for the chute control linkage. If this works well 'll start a new thread with pictures.

For the help folks

Rolf :whistle: