Sloppy front axle

[Tgtack 779]

Is there anyway to tighten up the front axle on a 1276, it has what seems to be quite a bit of fore and aft movement. Going to pull it today as part of the cleanup. The spindles fortunately, have almost no play in them, but tie rods are shot.

[Racinbob 11,984]

The tie rods are easy to make with these:

http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/category-s/126.htm

I use 3/8" threaded rod and 3/8" ID tube from Lowes.

 

You can use arbor shims to minimize the play at the center pin.

[JC 1965 1,532]

Those look great. What kind of metal  is the ID tube made of ? Thanks for sharing the photos.   

[Racinbob 11,984]

It's just mild steel. I match up the rod length and cut it accordingly with hopes that I can snug it up tightly with the ends in the correct position.

[JC 1965 1,532]

12 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

It's just mild steel. I match up the rod length and cut it accordingly with hopes that I can snug it up tightly with the ends in the correct position.

 

Thanks for the info.   

[Achto 29,420]

To take up slop in the axle pivot pin I would start by replacing the pin, chances are that it is worn. These can still be purchased but they are also easy to make. If the new pin still seems sloppy in the hole, then you can bore the hole in the axle larger and fit it with a bushing. This will cure any play in the axle pin.

[Tgtack 779]

Yep, looking at tie rods, but my main problem is slop in the axle central pivot pin joint. Anybody know a fix for that?

1 minute ago, Achto said:

To take up slop in the axle pivot pin I would start by replacing the pin, chances are that it is worn. These can still be purchased but they are also easy to make. If the new pin still seems sloppy in the hole, then you can bore the hole in the axle larger and fit it with a bushing. This will cure any play in the axle pin.

Achto, any details on making a new pin?

[Achto 29,420]

7 minutes ago, Tgtack said:

Achto, any details on making a new pin?

 The pin is 3/4" round stock, with a plate welded to one and a snap ring grove on the other. The snap ring grove can be deleted if you wish, and replaced by drilling & tapping the end of the pin for a bolt. When you remove the old one you can use it as a pattern. Some have even just used a 3/4" grade 8 bolt with a nyloc nut.

Edited May 9, 2017 by Achto

[Sarge 3,465]

It's not too difficult to bore/ream those front axles out accept a bushing , getting it straight can be a trick since it's cast iron though .Takes a pretty large drill press capable of a 7/8" bit or reamer ( I use tapered bridge reamers) - this is a job best suited for a milling machine . I leave the holes slightly undersized by .005" and press the new bronze or brass bushing in the hole , then ream it to a final fit to a new pin . Make sure to drill the grease fitting hole and there are bushings that are pre-slotted to help distribute the grease .

 

It's important to remove any weight off the front axle when greasing these things , otherwise the grease can't get into the areas needed to properly lubricate those moving parts . If the front isn't too heavy , I've used a jack to pick up the front on the mule drive plate and let it hang freely - sure seems to help .

Same goes with those front spindle holes , I've had to bore in bushings into every one I own but it does help stop the wear issue and replacing spindles .

 

Sarge

[Ed Kennell 42,130]

31 minutes ago, Achto said:

 . Some have even just used a 3/4" grade 8 bolt with a nyloc nut.

I have used this method with 3/4" arbor spacers.  After assembly, the nut/bolt can be tightened  to eliminate all  forward/aft movement.

[Tgtack 779]

Thanks guys for the tips! Just ordered new adjustable tie rods from Wheelhorseman1000, so should be good to go!