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porschpow

Mower Blades (sharpen or not sharpen)

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porschpow

I have been noticing that the mower leaves behind streaks of uncut grass while mowing.  It looks to me as if the blades need replacing/ sharpening.

 

Does anybody still sharpen their blades or is it not cost effective enough.  If they do, how do you go about sharpening it?

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Adams94

i sharpen mine about every 3rd time i mow.  I would try that before i bought new

 

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pfrederi

At the price of blades mine get sharpened for a long  long time.  If you are getting streaks of uncut grass you may have the wrong blades or they have been sharpened too many times. or incorrectly sharpened shortening them a tad.

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porschpow

I guess it makes more sense to have someone else sharpen them professionally.

 

What length blades go on the 520 Hydro's?  Maybe Mine are too short...

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pfrederi

Depends on the deck what model# is your deck??

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porschpow

Gotcha, I will try to get the model number on the deck.  Where is it located?

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pfrederi

I do not have any new stuff.:P..Older decks had a small metal plate with models and serial number.  Newer ones may have a decal,  have to wait on a 520 owner to come along.

 

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farmer

Hello porschpow, if you can take a decent  picture of the blades attached to the deck we can probably tell you if they're shot or worth sharpening. Putting an edge on a blade is fairly straightforward, If you don't hit stones or scalp the ground or have a mole problem it will last.

 I sharpen my blades once a year at the end of the season and they only need touching up,.. just cut grass and they'll last.   :thumbs:

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DougC

My 1995 Toro Wheelhorse 520H 48inch deck uses part number 106637 blades.

I don't know what deck you have so this is as far as I can go here. 

Genuine Toro Wheelhorse blades can be bought at your local Toro dealer or online and they last for years and years. 

I hand file mine,never grind with a grinder. If you remove too much material you will end up with streaks has been my experience.

I am a cheapskate so as much as I hate to spend the money for 3 new blades at some point in time it has to be done..... :)

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porschpow

Ok thanks guys!

 

Yeah, I accidentally hit a couple rocks with mine, so I really need to look at the blades.

 

Either way I need to take the deck out , again, lol, and get the blades out

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classicdmax

I sharpen once a year using angle grinder with a flap wheel. Just need to use caution as you can remove material fast. I just make light quick passes over the cutting edge. Prob not the preferred method but works for me

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SylvanLakeWH

Quick zip on the grinding wheel works for me on all my blades - WH as well as 3 push mowers...usually couple times a season...I keep one spare set sharpened for the inevitable rocks, roots, toys and other blade-dulling stuff one finds while mowing the average yard...

 

:twocents-02cents:

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r356c

Anyone with a walk-behind Bob-Cat/Bunton mower in the background of the video can be trusted in my opinion.

 

 

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WVHillbilly520H

That's how my dad did his and taught me how to sharpen mower blades and the same style balancer, good video, thanks Jeff.

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porschpow

That was a great video.  Thanks guys

 

I guess the biggest deal is to maintain the FACTORY ANGLE, which I guess is a learning curve of itself

I didn't get a chance to get the part numbers, had to finish some projects that were a priority.  I will do it today though

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Racinbob

I agree with Paul. Blades are expensive and there's no need to wast perfectly good blades when they can be sharpened many times. Our Florida yard was tougher on blades than here. A couple weeks ago I purchased two sets, one set of Toro and another of an off brand. The Toro are clearly better but that's not to say that there isn't other brands just as good. The technique in the video works well but make sure you don't overheat the steel. That thin sharp edge will turn blue pretty easily. I don't think this set can be saved.:unsure:

 

 

Those came off my son in laws green thingy. The spindles were screaming and I mentioned it to him. I ended up getting a complete kit with blade, spindles, idler pulleys and belt off Ebay and rebuilding the deck.:)

 

 

 

 

OOPS! The picture wouldn't load :scratchead:

Edited by Racinbob

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DennisThornton

:text-yeahthat:

 

Don't overheat the thin edge to blue because you will spoil the temper and lose the blade's hardness.  

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Tankman

Sharpen the blades, stop mowin' brush and rock gardens. :ROTF:

If your blades aren't sharpened and sharpened, or bent and disfigured, sharpen them.

If they are, hard to say without a picture, get a new set. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Honest Bob

You can see the guy in the video has sharpened alot of blades. Look at the shield that the sparks were hitting! 

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farmer

:text-yeahthat: Funny that, caught my eye too.  :)

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DennisThornton

I'm originally from southern Ohio and I summered in southern Kentucky as a youngster. Great farm country because of the rich soil.  Moved up here in Northern NY near the Canadian border in 1986.  Yeah I know, I'll get to it...  Of course I stopped at a few tractor & lawnmower repair shops and was shocked at the blades I saw.  Completely worn out!  The lift worn away!  The ends in shreds!  I thought for a moment and it looks like they had been furiously sandblasted to ruination!  And they had been.  Up here we have lots of sandy lawns that will quickly obliterate not only the sharp edges but the entire blade! 

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cleat

I throw away lots of blades that are more worn at the lift area than the actual cutting area.

 

And that is blades that hit many rocks and roots.

 

Yes, my soil is basically pure sand and rock.

 

I sharpen with a flap wheel in a mini-grinder.

 

No need to get the edge razor sharp, just reasonably sharp and get the larger nicks out.

 

Try and keep the bottom edge flat to keep the cut even.

 

Check the blade for both balance and flatness.

 

When blades are re-installed, I turn them to make sure they all line up flush with each other so they are all cutting the same height.

If they are not flush then either the deck is bent or a spindle has shifted somehow (assuming the blades are not bent).

 

Grease up the spindles and start mowing.

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porschpow

Cheese, I am a complete novice, lift area???  How do you inspect lift areas to make sure they are not worn out

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cleat

Lift area is the raised part behind the cutting edge.

 

When this wears badly, you will actually begin to see a thin area on the raised part.

 

If this thins enough it could break off and become a projectile or simply knock the blade badly out of balance.

 

Also without this raised bit, your deck cannot discharge grass properly.

 

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DougC

The curved back part of the blade provides the lift so the sharp front edge of the blade can cut the grass evenly and cleanly without tearing the stalk.

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