Duff 206 #1 Posted January 25, 2009 Hi, guys, A few weeks ago I posted for some advice on how to deal with water in a tranny. I got several very useful and much appreciated thoughts and suggestions, and from those I decided to try flushing it and trying it out before doing a tear-down. Rather than bump that rather long thread back up, I thought it might be easier just to give you an update....... When last we chatted about this, I had just strapped the tranny to my Workmate and was planning on wrapping some duct tape around the drive pulley, then using a worn out belt on my belt sander to spin it up for flushing. Got busy and had to put the project aside for a bit. Today I got back to it. Put two quarts of clean kerosene into the tranny. As I looked at it I realized the brake drum was pretty rusted, so I thought, "Hey! How about I drive that with the belt sander to spin the tranny and clean them both up at the same time?" (I'd already taken the brake band off as part of my tractor tear-down.) So I put it in gear and fired up the sander. Guys, it worked like a charm! :horseplay: In all gears and both ranges the tranny spun like a champ - quiet, tight and smooth. Once flushed, the shifters worked much easier, too. And since the drive pulley was also rusty I grabbed my offset grinder with a wire wheel and drove the tranny while cleaning that, too! The kero came out diry the first time, but not rusty and no metal pieces or shavings. Second flush was pretty clean. So now she sits, refilled with 80-90 gear lube (spun up to distribute it through everything), in the corner of the shop on the floor until I begin reassembly. Dang , love it when a plan comes together! Sorry for no pix - the wife was away and I couldn't hold a camera and the belt sander or the grinder at the same time. On the other end of the success spectrum, though, I just spent the better part of three hours trying to get a roll pin out of the steering shaft. I hate those pins!!!! Cheers and ! Duff :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted January 25, 2009 Good job Duff! Now I bet it'll start leaking that nice new oil out the seals.... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #3 Posted January 25, 2009 Glad it worked out for ya!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #4 Posted January 25, 2009 Good job Duff! Now I bet it'll start leaking that nice new oil out the seals.... Yeah, I was watching for that when I had the kero in it since the stuff is much thinner than the oil. Even though I spun it up at a pretty good clip, ran it for several minutes, and left the kero in for a while, the seals appeared to stay dry. Time will tell..... Duff :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,465 #5 Posted January 25, 2009 A tip- if you have a die grinder or high-speed drill you can ream out that cast hole a tad for clearance-really helps removing the hitch cross-pin . I've found several machine suppliers that sell 1/4" slot-cut shafts to accept roll-type crocus cloth that works perfect for this type of thing . Simply take a length of cloth and double fold the end in the slot and wrap it around the shaft until it's the diameter you need . Takes a pretty coarse grit to start removing the rust , but always try to finish with at least 180-220 grit to prevent future corrosion . Nice to remove the pin with no tools , like they were intended . I found the old 1277's hitch hole to be off just a hair in casting alignment - not too uncommon I'm sure . I know Goodson's carries those shafts , as well as many of the industrial suppliers like Grainger and McMaster-Carr . Just a warning-keep your fingers clear and stop rotation before you clear the hole- it's a bit hairy when chunks of abrasive come flying off . BTW-I have used a cordless drill to spin up hydro pumps to prime them too - eats batteries fast . Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #6 Posted January 25, 2009 A tip- if you have a die grinder or high-speed drill you can ream out that cast hole a tad for clearance-really helps removing the hitch cross-pin . I use a 3/4" ball hone, intended for use on brake cylinders, to do the same thing. It'll also do the spindle bores, the lft arm bores, and pedals. And it doesnt hurt if you hit your fingers with it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #7 Posted January 25, 2009 I think he's talking about the hardened roll pin that holds the steering wheel on. They can be heated to take out the temper and THEN drilled on the steel wheels, but the plastic wheels don't like the heat very much. For cleaning out the 3/4 inch holes you can't beat a 12 guage shotgun cleaning brush. They are just a touch over 3/4 inches diameter. They can be mounted to a cleaning rod and run in a drill, they're only a dollar or so each and can even be had in stainless. The stainless ones are harder than the cast and can remove a small amount of metal. The brass or nylon ones are soft and won't take off anything but rust/dirt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #8 Posted January 25, 2009 Jim's right about the pin I was fighting with - steering wheel - but you guys have given me some great tips on how to clean out other locations on the machine, and I'm at the point I'm starting to work on these, too. This forum is the BEST!!!! :horseplay: Thanks to all! Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #9 Posted January 25, 2009 :whistle: Hey Duff, on that hole clean out deal, i was cleaning out the spindle holes on my GT and couldn't find anything that worked like i wanted and did't want to wait to go to town so i took a brazing rod bent it together and slid a piece of sand paper in the slit , hooked it up in the cordless drill and let it rip, course at first then smooth and that thing is brand new inside and it cost me about 5 min and no $. i saw my dad do this on the farm on those dad burn pins, the way i get them out is to use a new one and use it as a punch, about half way out then use vice grips, but they can be buggers, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
