stevasaurus 22,271 #1 Posted January 21, 2009 looking for a discussion on filling tires... 1. is calcium carbonate or chloride the best...where do you get it 2. saw here.. one guy used windshield washer antifreeze 3. anything that doesn't rust the rims 4. how woud you install any liquid of your choise...is it something you can do yourself 5. I noticed in mine the valves are not there...are they rusted to death or not used in these cases This spring, I will be getting into the above...I have a couple of rims that have rust and they were filled. Maybe can fix (welding, bondo, tubes) interested in your expertise in this matter...haven't seen this addressed on any other threads.... I want more snow...haven't plowed in 5 days ...just wanted to show how much fun I am having thanks to redsquare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #2 Posted January 21, 2009 Steve - Check out this thread - we've had a few discussions on this subject. Valuable info! http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...4495&hl=calcium Best, Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teddy da Bear 11 #3 Posted January 21, 2009 I believe the calcium chloride "is" the stuff that rusts the rims. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #4 Posted January 21, 2009 Calcium is no good! My vote would be try and find some wheel weights! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #5 Posted January 22, 2009 :dunno: Steve you had better watch what you wish for, some of the guys got a lot and now wish it would slow down a bit, this is some crazy weather we are having and i bet it gets worse,, but for your ? there was a post on here a while back that members had put everthing but acid in them one member said there was a product called beet juice?????? don't know if that was a joke or not, but they sell products at TSC just for that and have an attachment to fill with. with tubes they wouldn't rust the rims, i put tubes in all my tires , still have an old tube patching kit.. didn't catch where your located , i thought everyone north of arkansas got snow.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #6 Posted January 22, 2009 1)I will NEVER use calcium chloride....rots anything and everything it touches. 2)washer fluid is ok if you are far enough south and it also has a lot of alcohol in it and may have a bad effect on tires long term. 3)Rv antifreeze is my choice.Easy to get,fairly reasonable price and do it yourself. 4)set the tire and rim on the ground,deflate,break the bead on one side,dump the RVA in,air up,reinstall and go plow. 5)if the rims are rusted bad try and find some better ones. 6)the debate about tubes or no tubes will go on as long as the hydro/gear drive debate.....I do not use tubes and understand I may loose all my product if a tire rolls off the bead. 7)I have gotten 6 gallons in a 8.50 and 8 gallons in a 10.50 8) www.rimguard.biz this is a product from the left overs of sugar beet processing.....may be why its called beet juice. Cannot figure why that wont work as a link but there it is :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #7 Posted January 22, 2009 jerrell...kind of kidding about the snow...I am west of chicago in elgin, ill, and we already have our yearly average...snowed 8 days in a row and then dropped to minus 30. I now have to plow and then blow the snow because no room to push it all out of the way. I remember the winter of 1978, I was a lineman working for Illinois Bell and we had snow-shoes so we could get to the poles. I was a little younger then...we have a chance to be close to that year in 2009 thanks for the info guys and the old thread :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sugarmaker 0 #8 Posted February 3, 2009 Winter of 78 don't remind me I am still thawing out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #9 Posted February 7, 2009 I have read all the threads, and I tried to break the bead on the tires...with no luck so I drilled some 3/8 holes in the tires and cut off the valve stem so the fluid can drain out. I will take them to a tire guy to have them removed. I didn't want to have him have all that liquid all over his equipment. My question is...do the bearings on the front tires tap out with a punch, and do they tap back in...like bearings on a regular hub? I thought I minght try the anode battery charger process on the rims to remove the rust so I can determine if they are worth saving. My TORO dealer says the price of new rims and tires would be about $100 apiece! Does that price sound in the ballpark? :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #10 Posted February 8, 2009 This is what you need for breaking the beads: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=4328 Hasnt failed me yet, and that includes tires rusted to the rims by that frickin' calcium cr@p... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racer4 0 #11 Posted February 9, 2009 Beet juice is supposed to work well, plus it weighs 13 lb/gal. Non toxic too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #12 Posted February 10, 2009 Mike...thanks, I was looking for the thread...read it some time ago...couldn't find it. What I really need to know is the bearings...can I tap them out with a punch, like I would to change the race out on a boat-trailer bearing, or are they pressed in...I don't want to run them through the electrode process to clean off the rust. Appreciate the response. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #13 Posted February 10, 2009 can I tap them out with a punch.......? Yessir! Use a long punch (a 3/8" drive extension works great too ) inserted from the opposite side and pop them right out. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #14 Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks Terry...kinda thought that, but didn't want to take any chances...tires are off, bearings are out, and grease fitting...time for electrolysis. :banana: noticed a few rusted holes in the rims...can almost put my little in one...might be able to braze, weld, bondo Going to try to salvage. If anybody has any ideas on how to patch the holes...I am all ears/eyes. Holes are to big for duct tape at this point I am leaning toward brazing. thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #15 Posted February 10, 2009 Sorry...I should have read my last post first...meant to say little finger. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #16 Posted February 11, 2009 :thumbs: i caught that steve, was wondering there for a minute :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bell 11 #17 Posted February 11, 2009 Steve, sounds like you have it under control... I would say, on the rust holes, cut out the rusted through area and weld in new metal... Might be tricky with the rust-thinned metal, but that is about the only "right" way I know of to fix it... Back to the fluid in the tires discussion.... I recently got a tractor and the guy said the tires were "loaded".... I assumed they were loaded with calcium chloride, but when it got cold enough to freeze, I found out that they were filled with WATER. It was like riding around on a couple of huge, unbalanced ice cubes... You'd get up to speed and the vibrations would almost throw you off of it.... So, I'd advise against water if it gets below freezing where you're at. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 652 #18 Posted February 11, 2009 If you can weld, that'd prolly be the best option. When I need to weld up holes, I use these, I also have copper pieces that you can bend/form to odd shapes and last, its used where the pliers above wont reach The weld will not stick to the copper, while I dont suggest spending 30+ dollars for the above tools, a short length of copper tube, cut in half, and unrolled to fit the tire should do the trick for ya...and at a fraction of the cost Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #19 Posted February 11, 2009 What do you think about using lead...I remember seeing car bodyshop people using lead to fill spots on cars before bondo. Of course the metal was thicker then and would take the heat without buckleing the metal. I am a cable splicer for the phone company and know how to beat in lead sleves and solder and wipe lead. I was thinking the process would work on the rims and the lead would bond to the steel. I have one rim in the electrolysis process noow and if there is anything left, I thought I would give it a try. I would use prestolyte for the torch, as it is hotter the propane. I will post pictures of the process...wish me luck. :banana: If that doesn't work, my son will be enlisted as he is a class "A" welder. With the gas feed welder, he may be able to work the miracle. :banana: The electrolysis process is amazing. Over night and the amount of sledge is incredable. Looks like 2 days to do it on each rim....I will not fill tires after seeing what happens to the rims. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 652 #20 Posted February 11, 2009 I think id get it welded. the 70/30 lead/tin thats available now, is pretty soft, and i would worry about it deforming on something as big as your little finger... The other thing with lead, you have to Tin the surface to get it to stick, and you also have to have it down to bare metal, with nothing left on it to contaminate the lead... if you want to give it a go, id use it on the smaller holes, and eastwood.com sells all the stuff youll need, from the lead sticks, tinning butter, acid brushes, wood paddles, even got the tips to slip over the end of a oxy acetylene torch setup to burn only acetylene to give a nice soft flame... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,271 #21 Posted February 12, 2009 thanks for the info Scott...nice tools also. I have a large assortment of vice-grips , one that is pretty close to the pic at the top. Am I right in thinkging that you put a piece of copper clamped and formed to the hole on one side so you can weld from the other? The copper gives you something to build on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 652 #22 Posted February 12, 2009 Yeah, your thinking right. the Weld will not stick to the copper.. and it also helps soak up some of the heat to keep from distorting the piece to much Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
