obone 142 #1 Posted February 22, 2017 I would like to start replacing the bolts and nuts on my B-100. I read a lot of people are using stainless steel. I want to spend 50-100 on hardware and have extra when I'm done so when I get another tractor I will be able to replace it's hardware. What sizes should I get and grade 5 or 8 or something else. While I'm asking what about the other hardware E clips and all the other stuff. I did find a few kits from Harbor Freight, but after trying to use one of there E clips my wheel fall off. I would like to find good hardware at a good price not cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #2 Posted February 22, 2017 I get just about all my hardware from here as i live in eh boondocks and it is 20+ miles to a hardware store that may or may not have what i need. https://www.mcmaster.com/# 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,978 #3 Posted February 22, 2017 If you have an Ace Hardware or a True Value Hardware in your area, they have most of the parts you need in the little drawers stocked by Hillman Hardware. I must make ten trips a week there just for nuts and bolts, etc. Jim 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,296 #4 Posted February 22, 2017 I like stainless too and often I buy in bulk from an ebay seller. It's way cheaper that way and I have extras. There's no need for hardened in most cases. Think about it. Even the four bolts fastening the frame to the transmission don't need to be hardened. A standard bolt is much tougher than the threaded hole in the relatively soft cast iron. I've bought those kits from Harbor Freight and had the same results. Aside from being low quality I find that there's only two or three sizes I need in the kit and the rest will likely never get used. That being said, I still find myself making trips to Ace, Lowes or Tractor Supply for the one bolt I don't have. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,909 #5 Posted February 22, 2017 I buy my stainless nuts and bolts from boltdepot.com. Good prices, and you can purchase as little as 1 single item. No packs of ten and such. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obone 142 #6 Posted February 22, 2017 I have looked at some of those places. It's just so hard to decide. In the parts manual mostly it says HHCS. It doesn't give a length or thread type. I've seen on here people using 5/16-18 and 3/8-16, but how long do they need to be? Thanks for the replies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #7 Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) McMaster is not cheap but they have a huge selection, helpful website, with details on the items and the the quality is excellent. Shipping varies by size etc. but is usually between $6 and $10. If I order by 6pm UPS usually brings it around noon the next day. If i drive 40 miles (round trip) that is 2 gals of gas and about $5, plus my time and to find out they didn't have what i needed.... Edit; I personally think SS is overkill unless you are planning on leaving the horse outside for the next several years (and there is the issue of galling). The higher quality bolts have yellow cadmium plating which holds up very well. McMaster also offers other even better coatings on some bolts. Edited February 22, 2017 by pfrederi 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,978 #8 Posted February 22, 2017 25 minutes ago, rmaynard said: I buy my stainless nuts and bolts from boltdepot.com. Good prices, and you can purchase as little as 1 single item. No packs of ten and such. A second vote for boltdepot.com if it's a hard to find size. Huge selection, and reasonable shipping. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,296 #9 Posted February 22, 2017 That's an interesting article Paul. I've had that happen a few times. It acted like I cross threaded things but I knew I didn't. I never thought about galling. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #10 Posted February 22, 2017 When you live in the country it is best to have hardware on hand. Having other hobbies only makes it more necessary. Mil Veh like Gr8 NF, Farm Tractors like bigger stuff Lower Left is Gr8 NF Stainless and Galvanized, Upper left 1/4 to 3/8 various styles also nuts washers etc...yellow bins longer bolts 1/4 to 1/2" Lowery right 9/16 to 1-1/8" bolts nuts...There is a separate section not in photo for 5/8" nuts bolts. Some of us have horse addictions some other addictions 16 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #11 Posted February 22, 2017 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Some of us have horse addictions some other addictions Yeah, when I was working in an industrial setting I never stepped over a bolt, nut or washer in the parking lot or anywhere else for that matter ( still don't) and I had to get an upright bolt bin from Larson to fit them all into --don't make sense to spend gas money to go to town for a bolt or nut.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #12 Posted February 22, 2017 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: Edit; I personally think SS is overkill unless you are planning on leaving the horse outside for the next several years (and there is the issue of galling). The higher quality bolts have yellow cadmium plating which holds up very well. McMaster also offers other even better coatings on some bolts. I could be wrong, but I don't believe that anyone uses cad plating anymore after the environmental mess in the 1980's or so. The yellow plating that you see today is yellow (zinc) chromate. It is still pretty good and is extensively used in the automotive industry along with olive drab zinc chromate. I also agree that stainless hardware is overkill and I only use them on the transmission tunnel where the 1/4-20 phillips head screws tend to have the cheap plating chipped off and then they rust-drives me nuts. The only place where I use Gr 8 hardware is on the cup point set screws which hold the hubs to the axle. With an 8 point socket, you can put lots of torque on them and never worry about the hubs sliding. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #13 Posted February 22, 2017 23 minutes ago, doc724 said: I could be wrong, but I don't believe that anyone uses cad plating anymore after the environmental mess in the 1980's or so. The yellow plating that you see today is yellow (zinc) chromate. It is still pretty good and is extensively used in the automotive industry along with olive drab zinc chromate. I also agree that stainless hardware is overkill and I only use them on the transmission tunnel where the 1/4-20 phillips head screws tend to have the cheap plating chipped off and then they rust-drives me nuts. The only place where I use Gr 8 hardware is on the cup point set screws which hold the hubs to the axle. With an 8 point socket, you can put lots of torque on them and never worry about the hubs sliding. You are right about the yellow being zinc Chromate (what happens when I use memory in stead of looking something up).....but the chromate works very well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #14 Posted February 22, 2017 Hey fellas , in case you haven't looked , Lowes has a really good hardware section . Check it out , you'll be impressed ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #15 Posted February 22, 2017 6 hours ago, Racinbob said: That's an interesting article Paul. I've had that happen a few times. It acted like I cross threaded things but I knew I didn't. I never thought about galling. Yep, Stainless Steel bolts/nuts seem to gall real easy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elcamino/wheelhorse 9,062 #16 Posted February 22, 2017 Lowes hardware selection depends on the store. The Lowes nearest me sucks , but the one 6 miles away is great. larger selection in every department few out stock items. Went to Lowes nearest me today for some indoor walking and to pick up some Rustolem (sp) raddle cans in red and black. Both were out stock. First time I have walked out lowes without buying something. My wife wanted to know if I was sick 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #17 Posted February 22, 2017 Hmmm , I figured being a corporate affair , they'd all have the same selection . Guess I must be one of the lucky ones ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #18 Posted February 22, 2017 There's a Lowes near me where I get my stainless. Pretty good selection and I get extra when I go. Now I have a drawer full but it always seems like I'll need 1 thing. A lot of stores have poor inventory control and when a bin empties, it's quite a while before it's filled again. There's a TSC and another farm supply store near by that sells hardware by the pound which works out pretty well 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pollack Pete 2,273 #19 Posted February 22, 2017 8 hours ago, rmaynard said: I buy my stainless nuts and bolts from boltdepot.com. Good prices, and you can purchase as little as 1 single item. No packs of ten and such. I buy from Bolt Depot too.Just got a box in the mail today.Great prices.Great products.Quick delivery. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R. L. Addison 299 #20 Posted February 23, 2017 I'm not fond of stainless as I've had to remove too many broken ones. They are not hard enough to withstand trying to use a small center punch, (they will mushroom and become more contrary) and they are as difficult to drill as bronze or copper, then can swell when an extractor isused to try to remove them. 316 may be an exception as it did not drill & tap as easily as grade 8 bolts. My $.02 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503 #21 Posted February 23, 2017 17 hours ago, obone said: I have looked at some of those places. It's just so hard to decide. In the parts manual mostly it says HHCS. It doesn't give a length or thread type. I've seen on here people using 5/16-18 and 3/8-16, but how long do they need to be? Thanks for the replies. HHCS = hex head cap screw Once upon a time I was able to determine the bolt sizes of most of the hardware used by Wheel Horse. If you get stuck post the part number and will see what I have. E-clips and most retaining rings are manufactured by stamping. If you look closely at them one side has rounded edges and the other side has sharp edges. They must be installed so the sharp edge is the side against the outer side of the groove in most cases. Make the sharp edge do the retaining after determining which way the forces are applied. Garry 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,880 #22 Posted February 23, 2017 obone I am redoing this tractor with all the original bolts. I just wire brushed them and clear coat. Looks ok to me just my . Enjoy what ever you feel is right to you. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #23 Posted February 23, 2017 I use a lot of SS nuts, locking nuts and bolts. Usually on implements first; i.e.: mower decks. Always use Never-Seez if not Threadlocker, usually blue. My local Lowes has an excellent selection. If not, Fastenal. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,987 #24 Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) I also use lots of SS with never seize on my tractors and implements but I get a good price from work (free). However, I have been sandblasting and painting with high temp black (seems to be tougher and I like the finish) some of the bolts with the integrated molded in washer with little locking teeth. These seem to be found everywhere on a Wheel Horse. These are a pain to sandblast and paint but sometimes look better that a regular bolt and a lockwasher, flat washer combination. Even with painted bolts, a little never seize is used. My machines never sit out but why not. Cleat Edited February 23, 2017 by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #25 Posted February 25, 2017 If you must use stainless , stick to the 316 or 18-8 variety as they hold up to torque better and have a lesser chance of galling . The copper based anti-seize is a must as well , plus it prevents corrosion later . Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites