ThreeHorses 20 #1 Posted January 17, 2009 Is it normal to have sluggish response of transmission and hydralic lift on 520 H when cold? Especially if tractor has been setting outside and not used for awhile. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #2 Posted January 17, 2009 In short ....Yes! Any hydro tractor should be given a chance to warm up a while before use when it get cold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 22,923 #3 Posted January 17, 2009 Absolutely its normal. I've owned a few hydros and they all needed some "warm up time" in the cold weather before they could be moved or an attachment lifted. Not to mention the hydro tranny and hydraulic lift stuff will probably last longer if a sufficient warm up time is used. Mike......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #4 Posted January 17, 2009 Is it normal to have sluggish response of transmission and hydralic lift on 520 H when cold? Especially if tractor has been setting outside and not used for awhile. I believe I've read on a number of threads here that the hydros can be very sluggish when cold. I think the recommendation is to let the tractor run for 10 or 15 minutes before trying to move anything to let the fluid warm up by circulating. Those with more experience....? Duff EDIT: Wow! A whole bunch of us jumped on this one at the same time! :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 22,923 #5 Posted January 17, 2009 Duff EDIT: Wow! A whole bunch of us jumped on this one at the same time! Duff, its to cold to do anything but sit in front of a warm computer screen . Mike....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #6 Posted January 17, 2009 Duff, its to cold to do anything but sit in front of a warm computer screen . Mike....... Amen, brother! 7 degrees and dropping up here....... Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,739 #7 Posted January 17, 2009 Hold on a sec.....OK, I threw another log on the wood stove , I have had two C125 Autos in use over the last month and they both wanted about 5 minutes of run time to get motivated to move or lift. 10w40 @ 0-5 above is thick stuff Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 22,923 #8 Posted January 17, 2009 Amen, brother! 7 degrees and dropping up here....... Duff Brrr....and I'm going to be "sneaking" into Maine tomorrow for a Wheel Horse mission on the coldest weekend of the year . Just my luck. Mike........ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #9 Posted January 17, 2009 :rtfm: and I believe you will find that it warns that proper warm up is required or damage will result. At least that is the case for the two manuals I have read, both for Sundstrand systems. I suspect that the ones with Dextron ATF warm up faster than the ones with Oil. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaineDad 87 #10 Posted January 17, 2009 Sneaking into Maine! Are you horse stealing in my State? Where are you headed? <_< Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,739 #11 Posted January 17, 2009 Read the **(&Y*) manual he says I have a whole pile of these beautiful Red tractors and boy it sure is easier to post a question than it is to go and buy all the manuals I don't have Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #12 Posted January 17, 2009 :thumbs: Right on wheelhorse of course, anytime you force cold or thick fluid thru those O rings and valves it will cause wear and tear, can cause old oil rings to break or move out of position. even in our autos it is better to let the engine warm up a bit before driving... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
noncritical 5 #13 Posted January 17, 2009 i dont have any hydros but on my log splitter i use a heat lamp next to the hyd oil tank for about half an hour to get it warmed up a little Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,566 #14 Posted January 17, 2009 I have decided I prefer the gear tractors for winter use. The speed control advantage of the autos is offset by the warm up time. Interesting that the Charger 12 auto with snow blower can at least move herself out of the shop to warm up..the 418 Auto has to run for 2-3 minutes in the shop before I can drive her outside. (Warming them up in the shop makes for too much fumes and smoke!!). This morning at -4 I used the 8 speed C-81 (repowered with a 12hp magnum) and plow to clean up some drifting...I was started, out, plowed and back in what it would have taken the hydros to warm up. I guess next year the blower may go back on the C175 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #15 Posted January 18, 2009 Interesting that the Charger 12 auto with snow blower can at least move herself out of the shop to warm up..the 418 Auto has to run for 2-3 minutes in the shop before I can drive her outside. So, does your Charger have Dextron ATF or 30 W oil in the transmission? :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,566 #16 Posted January 18, 2009 The sunstrand on the Charger has dexron...the 418s eaton has 10w-40 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #17 Posted January 19, 2009 I can certainly attest to the oil difference - picked up another 1277 last week and it still had Dexron in it vs. the 10w30 in my old one . Big difference in warmup time and response from the hydro for sure ! Pics soon as it warms up.... Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #18 Posted January 19, 2009 I can certainly attest to the oil difference - picked up another 1277 last week and it still had Dexron in it vs. the 10w30 in my old one . Big difference in warmup time and response from the hydro for sure ! Pics soon as it warms up.... Sarge OK, that is what I thought. Both my Charger and the 120-A I owned have the Dextron and warm up was a very minor issue (not really required, but advisable since that it what WH says in the manual). I have been blowing using the Charger with no chains and the Hydro is really good for rocking out when stuck! I have noticed when blading with the 854 that my right foot gets a lot colder than the left! BTW, I would never want a foot activated Hydro, but I really do like having the brake pedal so I can slow down when I have one hand on the lift and one on the wheel! At least now that I replaced the dashboard I don't need one for the throttle too! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
htopjimmy26 3 #19 Posted January 19, 2009 My 2 cents are that with my sundstrand and eaton I use 10w-30 synthetic which stays thinner at colder temps and I usually only warm up for 1 or 2 minutes then I'm good to go. I currently have a single stage blower on my 82 c195 and my 79 c160, both operate fine at or above about 10 degrees, below that they are too hard to get started but I have done it. good luck :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #20 Posted January 19, 2009 Those extra minutes of warm up for the hydro is probably good for the engine also. At these low temps the engine oil isnt flowing so great either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #21 Posted January 20, 2009 Those extra minutes of warm up for the hydro is probably good for the engine also. At these low temps the engine oil isnt flowing so great either. Yeah Nick, that is what the manual says too... ...marching up the stairs... ... sound of pages turning... :rtfm: doo do dee hum... what? Oh! ... sound of pages turning... :rtfm: Yea, I knew it would be in this one.... OK, interestingly the Charger manual has no comments regarding cold weather operation. But, referring to the B C D Series owners manual (part # 810134R1) under "Correct Automatic Transmission Operation": During cold weather, start engine with the parking brake engaged; on C-Series models also lift up the transmission clutch lever. Run the engine at full throttle for two minutes to allow engine to warm up and then engage the transmission clutch by pushing the lever down. For temperatures between 0 and 30 degrees allow the transmission to run in neutral for 5 minutes before attempting to set the unit in motion. For temperatures below 0 degrees allow the transmission to run in neutral for 10 minutes before attempting to set the unit in motion. Failure to do so may result in extensive internal transmission damage ... OK, so what fluid was used the year this manual was written... ... sound of pages turning... :rtfm: hmmmm 10W30 or 10W40... OK, so does anyone have a 73 or earlier manual for a Sundstrand trans tractor that has anything about this warm up procedure? Cheers Rolf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #22 Posted January 20, 2009 OK, so does anyone have a 73 or earlier manual for a Sundstrand trans tractor that has anything about this warm up procedure? "68 Charger 9; "When starting tractor in cold weather set the park brake. This releases the drive belt, and the engine does not have to turn the transmission." No mention of a warm up time. The manual calls for Type "A" ATF (later substituted with Dexron) for this one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rideawaysenior 25 #23 Posted January 20, 2009 It's strange, it appears as though WH engineers went back and fourth with this for a while. I'm curious as to why some of the Sundstrands would use ATF and other Sundstrands on WH products would use 10w30. Anyone have any insight? I've got a 69 Charger 10 with the Tucky and that uses ATF however my WH 10 uses 10w30 as well as all of the other hydros I have. I'm big on letting them warm up before use even the manual transmission machines. It's just good practice. My only complaint though is, that when I want to use the D160, warm up time is LLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGG. I suppose if the garage were heated 24/7 it would be different but I can't afford to do that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #24 Posted January 20, 2009 I'm curious as to why some of the Sundstrands would use ATF and other Sundstrands on WH products would use 10w30. Anyone have any insight? It appears that the oil type changed about the same time the Sundstrand Hydrogear was replaced with the Sundstrand piston-to-piston unit, which was sometime in 1973. Which hydro is in your 10 Automatic, Jack? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave s 0 #25 Posted January 20, 2009 My 520 sits in a heated garage, It takes about a minute to get pressure to the lift cyl. It started this after I changed oil & filter,(10W30),before this, the cyl. would lift as soon as the motor started. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites