Hydro operation in cold weather?

[linen beige 14]

My 520 sits in a heated garage, It takes about a minute to get pressure to the lift cyl. It started this after I changed oil & filter,(10W30),before this, the cyl. would lift as soon as the motor started.

Could it maybe be low on oil? Did you top it off AFTER you started it with the new (empty) filter? Just a thought. :whistle:

[Rideawaysenior 25]

TT,

I'd have to look at it again to correctly answer you. I'm guessing from your statement that the difference in oil would determine the piston to piston VS hydrogear, and that the piston to piston which I believe is on my D's takes the 10w30.

[kpinnc 11,010]

My 520 sits in a heated garage, It takes about a minute to get pressure to the lift cyl. It started this after I changed oil & filter,(10W30),before this, the cyl. would lift as soon as the motor started.

Another question I would have is if you push the tractor around a bit in between uses.

If you push the tractor (with a cold tranny) about 15-20 feet, and then check the oil, it will probably be all the way up to the top of the dipstick tube. The oil pools in the case when the tractor is pushed. My 520 does that, and the hydraulics AND motion are a bit slow to respond on start up. Seems to happen more if I push the tractor backwards for some reason. It doesn't pull fluid from the hydraulic lines and cylinder, but it appears to bypass out of the pump side, and it takes a few seconds to get it's "prime" back.

Or, mine could just be a POS. I don't have any other problems with it.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I'm guessing from your statement that the difference in oil would determine the piston to piston VS hydrogear, and that the piston to piston which I believe is on my D's takes the 10w30.

It's just one of those "blind observations" that came to me one day when I was looking up parts.

The recommended fluid type changed at exactly the same time as the drive motor arrangement did. (Imagine that! )

This ATF vs. 10W-30 debate in the Sundstrands has bugged me for a while. I wonder what would be wrong with just changing them over to UTF like we run in the equipment where I work. It seems to work fine with all hydro/hydraulic systems.

[Duff 206]

Or, mine could just be a POS. I don't have any other problems with it.

Hey Gator....if that's the only problem with your machine, I don't think it's earned "POS" status!

Duff :whistle:

[kpinnc 11,010]

Hey Gator....if that's the only problem with your machine, I don't think it's earned "POS" status!

Nah, I was just joking a bit. I do plan to paint purple polka-dots or something on it to match the pink paint though...

Just a joke fellas...

Kevin

[dave s 0]

Jim, & Gator.

Levels are OK, I have checked levels and found them overfull, but I do push it around the shop sometimes,so that would answer that question. I have also found the eng. oil level reading overfull after shut down, but it also settles down.

Life gets interesting when you are Full Bore down the driveway, one hand on the wheel the other hand on the lift control,you're coming up to the snow bank and the speed selector gets hooked in the throttle T handle and of course your left foot is to stupid to press the pedal. Keeps the wife entertained!

dave s

[Iceboy133 0]

So, has anyone experienced leaky seals or other problems when switching to ATF or synthetic in thier Sundstrand hydro? I'm curious because I am thinking about doing so this week end. My C121 moves with out any warm up at -15f. I realise it is bad for it and do let it warm up but I will move ti out of the garage first if I can.

[Sarge 3,462]

I know this- since the changeover to 10w30 motor oil , the trans takes longer to warm up and acts pretty sluggish for quite awhile . It did, however, perform better in hot weather than the previous 30w hydro oil I had in it most of the summer for mowing . Now, the other 1277 I have has ATF in it and seems to be fine even when it's very cold with nearly no warmup time . I agree, it has to be a change between the piston pump and earlier vane type hydro pumps .

So, has anyone tried something odd , like certain types of mineral hydro oils , or even Amsoil ATF ?

Sarge

[htopjimmy26 3]

Hey Gator, the comment about a overfull tranny after a push sparked a memory of one time on my C195 pulling the dipstick after mowing a little only to find it pucking oil up out of the dipstick tube! It shocked the heck out of me and I never figured out how such a thing could have happened till now, I usually just let the tractor sit with out the park brake on and I"ll bet ya that it rolled some which caused it to actually barf out of the tube. Thank you. :thumbs:

[htopjimmy26 3]

Iceboy, I have synthetic in my 79 C161 and I gotta say that I am happier with the cold weather operation, it seemed to improve/shorten the warmup time and it will handle the heat better as well. The only down side is that if there is a questionable seal or gasket synthetic my find a way out , but I wouldn't let that bother you too much there are only 4 seals on the transaxle any way. good luck :thumbs:

[Iceboy133 0]

Thanks Jimmy. I haven't gotten to it yet but will try it this coming sunday. Jim....

[Rod(NASNUT) 1]

This ATF vs. 10W-30 debate in the Sundstrands has bugged me for a while. I wonder what would be wrong with just changing them over to UTF like we run in the equipment where I work. It seems to work fine with all hydro/hydraulic systems.

TT that is what I have in my Charger 9 it has been in there about 5 years and it still works fine. It takes mine about 5 mins. for warm up.