cod 121 #1 Posted November 17, 2016 For a 418-A have any of you discovered a "heavy duty" ignition switch that might last longer than the original? I'm also curious to know if it's still possible to find the plastic plug that holds the wires to the switch. In my tractors earlier life there appears to have been a heat problem at the back of the ignition and the plug is somewhat melted. I've futzed with it so that it works but there's one wire that seems to wiggle off the ignition lug and perhaps if I can find a new plug the problem will go away. As for the ignition switch, it seems to me that the replacements one gets today may not be quite as robust as the earlier ones and if there's a certain brand that lasts longer, I'll look into it. As always any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Cod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,394 #2 Posted November 17, 2016 You should have a Magnum engine so you need a magneto ignition switch. The original 111215 has been replaced by 103991 switch and very common. The plastic wire holder for the back of the switch is Toro 105302 and these are also easily found from after-market suppliers. They can also be obtained with wires and terminals but the colors may not be suitable. The terminals can be released and inserted where you want them. Check your old switch and make sure one terminal is marked by an "M". If there is an "I" (eye) terminal I have given you the wrong part number. These are from a Stens dealer - switch https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=3905 Plastic connector for 5 wires - The 6th wire on the side is for a ground to the chassis https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=205&p=3054 Plastic connector with 5 wires https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=205&p=1326 Two things are required to keep the wiring from overheating anywhere on the tractor. 1 - The terminals must have a tight connection between the wire and the terminal (the reason most of us like to solder all connections) and between the terminals where they plug together. 2 - The terminals and wire must be free of invisible oxidation and rust. All these problems = resistance to current flow = heat. Any terminal that shows signs of being overheated should be cut off the wire and replaced. After all is repaired the connectors should all be pulled apart and the exposed male terminals coated with a dielectric grease. Then fill the cavities of the female connectors with the same grease. Plug them all back together and corrosion should be eliminated for years. I say do it last because the dielectric grease looks like Vaseline and can get messy if you have to work in it. Garry Adding - Can explain how to safety remove the terminals from the plastic connectors if needed. All that is required is 1/2 of a 3/32" cotter pin about 1-1/2" long. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cod 121 #3 Posted November 18, 2016 Thanks Garry! I'll look into connector for 5 wires and recheck the existing wires and their connectors. Cod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
