jellyghost 378 #1 Posted November 10, 2016 For the first time in my 40 year old life, I changed oil, gear oil, a fuel filter, and an air filter. Woot! Now I am looking to rewire my headlights and apply some grease. I was just going to grease the spindles, but I noticed some grease plugs on each side of the back axle. Is there anywhere else that I should think about greasing? Is there any other maintenance that I should learn? Thanks guys! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #2 Posted November 10, 2016 Jelly, go to the manuals section. Look up your particular unit and it will show exactly where the grease points are. Of course you know to keep an eye on engine and trans oil levels. You'll do fine. Others will chime in. Best of luck. Glenn 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,155 #3 Posted November 10, 2016 Keep 's clean, oiled, adjusted and greased and they will last forever... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyghost 378 #4 Posted November 10, 2016 I hear the word "adjusted" and that makes me wonder if I am missing something. I know how to adjust the belt. Anything else I should be worrying about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,155 #5 Posted November 10, 2016 Belts were what I was referring to... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #6 Posted November 10, 2016 Grease the steering gear. I also remove the steering wheel cap, load some PB Blaster and replace the cap. Don't know which Horse you have? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmmmmdonuts 274 #7 Posted November 10, 2016 I agree with tankman with the steering gear. If you have a manual PTO take that off and grease the inside bearings. I take my fingers and out it in the tub of grease and slather the inside. I also believe there are some points where you need to squirt some oil. One point that comes to mind is the front wheels area. But it is much easier to see on the manual your oiling points. Don't forget to grease whatever attachments you have as well. Snowblower bearings and mower deck spindles come to mind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #8 Posted November 10, 2016 One of the biggest points of wear are those front steering spindles . I've rebuilt many front axles and it's the same issue every time - the bottom section of the spindle never receives enough grease to go all the way around the shank and it becomes galled over time . Dealing with my D series right now which also uses roller thrust bearings . One is so bad it galled the destroyed bearing onto the spindle so it must be replaced . Most front axles at minimum have to be bored and sleeved with bronze sleeve bearings which can be a pain and gets expensive . My advice - spend an extra minute or two and jack up the front axle to take the weight off those spindles , then grease and cycle the steering with it unloaded . Be careful to avoid putting the jack on the grease zerk that feeds the axle center pin . Best way is to pick it up by the frame with a spreader beam fitted to the jack so the weight is off that center pin as well . I dealt with heavy equipment and trucks for years replacing spring bushings and kin pins - you could tell which ones were jacked up before greasing since they lasted far longer before any wear developed . Sarge 12 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,450 #9 Posted November 10, 2016 (edited) mmmmmdonuts very good advice but be carefull about the amount of grease you put into the pto bearings, too much and it will creep out and get on the friction surface and cause the pto to slip don't ask how I know this. Edited November 10, 2016 by oldlineman 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC 1965 1,528 #10 Posted November 10, 2016 All the above, very good advice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,619 #11 Posted November 10, 2016 (edited) Sarge is right.Jack up the front when you grease the spindles.I do this on all my tractors.On the big ones like the Ford 3400 industriaI I raise one side at a time.Well worth the effort.JAinVA Edited November 10, 2016 by JAinVA 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmmmmdonuts 274 #12 Posted November 10, 2016 58 minutes ago, oldlineman said: mmmmmdonuts very good advice but be carefull about the amount of grease you put into the pto bearings, too much and it will creep out and get on the friction surface and cause the pto to slip don't ask how I know this. Yes I probably should of specified a light coating of grease and not gobs of it. Sarge, that is great advice. I never thought about that when greasing the front axles. I will make sure that I do that from now on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyghost 378 #13 Posted November 10, 2016 I busted out my new grease gun last night, and I couldn't figure it out. I started with a zerk fitting on the mower spindle. After pumping quite a bit with no visible result, I started to wonder if I had used the whole grease tube because the plunger was completely compressed. So... I unscrewed the tube and made a huge mess. I will try again tonight. I may have some questions about the PTO and steering wheel. Once I figure out the grease gun, I have found all of the grease points on the front ad back wheels. I have a 1978 C-101. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kegler 68 #14 Posted November 11, 2016 Most of the grease guns I have delt with you have to pull the plunger all the way back and give it a quarter turn or so to release the pressure spring. to reload pull it reverse the action and drop in a new grease tube. if it's supposed to move oil, or grease it - if it isn't supposed to move, tighten it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
refracman 166 #15 Posted November 11, 2016 yup did that when i first tried to load a grease gun, my dad ( auto mechanic) handed it to me and said put this in the gun, he had a very good laugh grease gun 101 pull plunger out until it locks, there are different types of locks, a slot off set with a groove in the shaft to lock it, friction tab, twist lock. unscrew the top pull plastic cap off new tube of grease insert this end into gun tube, if it doesn't go fully in, the plunger isn't puled out far enough, remove pull tab screw top back on release plunger always use pliers to remove old grease tube, that top is sharp! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #16 Posted November 12, 2016 Without taking the weight off both the front spindles and the axle's center pin there is no way the grease will get all the way around to lubricate the points where wear will occur - the number of axles I've bored and bushed with bronze is getting old - the D180 I have is so bad the axle must be replaced along with both spindles . I will say this - go look at the Allis Chalmers 916Hydro if you hate changing those little lightweight WH wheel bearings - their wheels and bearing setup will easily work on the WH with 3/4" front spindles - tapered roller bearings are much better . Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites