Need a 520h front Spindle..... Ideas

[cleat 5,000]

I see you have a washer under the snap ring. Is that something you added to take up slop ?

[Sarge 3,462]

There are a lot of variations in the axle castings - the height of the spindle ends can vary and some will end up with a fair amount of distance between the external mount E-clip and the casting itself . The spindles can also vary in size a fair amount despite they were probably put into a jig to weld on the steering arm/base plate/brace piece . It's real important to look at how yours sits in the axle bore and how square the bottom of that plate is in relation to the face of the casting - most are off a few degrees so it doesn't allow for full contact all the way around . This goes for all the cast front axles , not just those that use the bottom spindle needle roller thrust bearings . For the ones that do use those thrust bearings - it would be a very good practice to use a thicker bottom washer to support the bearing - the thin ones WH used will deflect easily and wear only one section of the bearing out much quicker than it should . I assembled mine with the thicker .126" bearing washers from McMaster - it's all detailed on the front axle rebuild thread -

There are several things that I wish WH would have done differently -

Install a sleeve into the spindle bore , as well as make the casting a bit larger - it could have even used a torrington style needle roller bearing , full-length if that casting were 1/4" thicker .

Include channels to allow grease to fill in from the bottom up , not at the center which results in the bottom never getting fully lubricated

Sleeve the center support pin instead of using a hollowed casting and making all the weight ride on two 1" long points - which ovals the axle center bore and eats the cross pin in short order .

Either make better control during final welding of the steering arm to keep it at 90* to the spindle shaft or use a U-shaped arm and a separated pin to spread the stress between both the top and bottom of the pivot axis on the spindle .The design they used is similar to early farm tractors , almost all later models were supported both top/bottom to spread the stress against the spindle axis

 

The hubs I bought were installed last night fit the common BT8 spindles and use L44643 (1" bore) bearings - 4 on 4" bolt pattern for the standard 2,000lb axle rating .

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKIHUB-440-2-1K.html

 

 

These hubs use a tapered roller bearing - pack it with grease and set the preload , re-pack maybe every 5yrs or so , should last just shy of forever . No more special bearings , special bore wheels and parts that easily wear out and cannot take the stress .

 

Wheels are the standard centered backspacing 4 on 4" bolt pattern , 8" wheel 7" wide . I fitted them last night to get an idea of clearance to the casting , it's close but will work fine . In some cases it may have to be installed reversed with the valve core on the inside , like a tractor to clear the end of the axle casting . On a 520 spindle , with it's end nut that can be used to pre-load the bearings and spacers with a 1" bore x 1.25" outside diameter can be used for the grease seal to ride upon . On the D's spindle that used a 3/8" coarse thread bolt a stud can be installed and use two nuts and a bearing washer to pre-load the bearings .

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330324_200330324?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF

 

Again, all the details on in the thread I'm writing titled "Front axle upgrades and rebuilds"

 

Sarge

 

[Sarge 3,462]

Btw - for the original poster - I'd be interested in those junk spindles off a 520 since they are still in stock and available . I'd like to test welding them up and re-turning the final profile and run some metal tests to see if it's a viable option for folks that cannot source new spindles . That , and I'd like to take some dimensions and compare more spindle castor/camber angles of various models to determine any differences in how these things were built throughout the years and design differences/reasoning .

I would at least be willing to pay for shipping , looking for other spindles off older models as well .

 

Sarge

[Duramax7man7 505]

On ‎11‎/‎25‎/‎2016 at 7:10 AM, cleat said:

I see you have a washer under the snap ring. Is that something you added to take up slop ?

 

Yes I put that in there to take up space between the E-clip and top of the axle. I look at it like it also helps to keep the grease in a little better as well as keep out debris. I like the idea that Sarge had about using a piece of bicycle inner tube to cover that area and other for that matter to keep out debris.

 

 

On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2016 at 10:47 AM, Sarge said:

Btw - for the original poster - I'd be interested in those junk spindles off a 520 since they are still in stock and available . I'd like to test welding them up and re-turning the final profile and run some metal tests to see if it's a viable option for folks that cannot source new spindles . That , and I'd like to take some dimensions and compare more spindle castor/camber angles of various models to determine any differences in how these things were built throughout the years and design differences/reasoning .

I would at least be willing to pay for shipping , looking for other spindles off older models as well .

 

Sarge

 

 Okay, yeah I wouldn't mind being a part of that discovery! Whatever "donation" outside of shipping you are okay with, I'm okay with.  Just let me know when you are ready for them and we can set that up.

[Duramax7man7 505]

Here a few photo I took while I had the axle off, replacing the plate and pin assembly... The axle looks fine as well as the rear plate and pin assy mounting plate that attaches to the frame. 

 

The old pin and plate assy are destroyed as well the hole in the front hitch being blown out. Which I only discovered after removing the old P&P assy. So I ordered a used front hitch with like new hole this weekend for $30 shipped. Will get here Wednesday. 

 

Photos:

More...

On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2016 at 10:47 AM, Sarge said:

Btw - for the original poster - I'd be interested in those junk spindles off a 520 since they are still in stock and available . I'd like to test welding them up and re-turning the final profile and run some metal tests to see if it's a viable option for folks that cannot source new spindles . That , and I'd like to take some dimensions and compare more spindle castor/camber angles of various models to determine any differences in how these things were built throughout the years and design differences/reasoning .

I would at least be willing to pay for shipping , looking for other spindles off older models as well .

 

Sarge

I'm sure that the same could be done for this Pin and plate assy as well?

[cleat 5,000]

I have made up new pins.

 

I think when the tab breaks off it allows the pin to rotate instead of the axle which wears out the ends.

 

I make mine with thicker tabs that hopefully will not break off.

 

 

I do not have a way to properly cut a groove for a snap ring so I just drill a hole and use a washer and cotter key.

 

 

Cleat

 

[Duramax7man7 505]

Nice Cleat!

 

 That's too it seems.

[Sarge 3,462]

Welding the spindles is not an issue - it's getting them in the lathe and trying to balance it enough to turn the shaft back down to original size . If I can get it figured out I'll get back with you on the spindles .

I make my own pins from oil hardened drill rod in 3/4" & 1" sizes - they are far harder than the stock x60 material .

 

I can tig weld tool steel filler rod onto the spindles - it would make the wear surface a lot harder than original but unless the cast iron axle itself was lined with a wearable bushing it would just cut the axle out oval pretty easily over time .

 

Sarge