Indiana_Steve 124 #1 Posted October 28, 2016 I have a '63 52" dozer blade with a home made wear edge that is extremely thick and homemade. What was(is) the thickness a wear strip should be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #2 Posted October 28, 2016 Factory thickness 3/16"-1/4",Jeff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #3 Posted October 29, 2016 3 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said: Factory thickness 3/16"-1/4",Jeff. yep...what my neighbor said.!!!!! 1/4 inch here and mine is 3 inch tall-----42 wide.....Kung Foo grip is extra..!! lololool brought to you by your local Wheel Horse Gentlemen,,,,tomorrow sunny and seventy....0% chance of snow....!! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indiana_Steve 124 #4 Posted October 29, 2016 Thanks guys. This will be my project for today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #5 Posted October 29, 2016 (edited) Posted 03 August 2012 - 08:46 PM Been working on a "new" plow for my GT-14. Information says it will handle a 54" front plow. I had a couple of fair looking 42" plows, so I took the best parts from both plows and made a nice 54" plow by adding 6" of plow to each side of the best 42". Now I am working on the plow cutting/wear edge. I wanted the 3/8" square holes for the 3/8" carrage bolts, but wasn't sure where I could get this done. At my work place they have a "mega-buck" iron worker that will do all kinds of stuff, but they don't have a 3/8" square die...Next best thing is a square broach. I have attached some pictures of the broach, plow wear edge, and the press I used to cut the 3/8" round hles to 3/8" square holes! This broach is round on the starting end, and is tapered to the opposite end, and is square. I used a press to "push" it through the steel. Edited October 29, 2016 by KC9KAS 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,981 #6 Posted October 29, 2016 I`ve done this many times with a square file. Really doesn`t take that long.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #7 Posted October 29, 2016 Or really on the cheap ,with the mild steel and minimal thickness of the cutting/wear edge drill oversized just enough for the square corners still "bite" while "drawing" the nuts down the carriage bolt will cut its own square and hold just like broaching it,Jeff. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #8 Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) If the edge is fab'd from 3" wide stock, double holes. Edge mounted to the lowest holes, when worn remount using the higher set of holes. Flip the edge when req'd and go again. PS. SS carriage bolts, locking nuts and Never-Seeze. Picked up a free Craftsman blade, what for I don't have a clue but was free. The previous owner added a squeegee edge. Interesting. A cut off tire tread. Edited October 30, 2016 by Tankman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #9 Posted November 2, 2016 There is a seller on the net - www.discountsteel.com that carries 1055 high carbon steel wear bars that are tapered for cutting edges . I just installed one on a 6-1142 54" dozer blade for my D180 . Seems like fairly good iron judging by how it welded up since the blade itself was worn to the point that the bolt holes wouldn't work any longer . It can be drilled as well , just use good quality cobalt bits and lube - I prefer TD Foamy and some of the Fastenal stores stock it . That lube is amazing for cutting bits and tap/die work.... There is also a seller on Ebay with some hardened steel edges , but I'd highly suspect it's imported from China . Four-square files work to finish off the mounting holes.... Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
