What have I gotten myself into this time?

[RJ Hamner 1,025]

I just brought home a 1972 Raider 12 and was blowing off all the cobwebs with the compressor so I could take some pictures for later reference when I noticed that something "just ain't right"

No coil and no seliniod?  Is this the"solid state breakerless ignition????? 

[953 nut 59,679]

6 minutes ago, RJ Hamner said:

No coil and no seliniod?  Is this the"solid state breakerless ignition?????

Likely to be a later replacement engine with mag. under the flywheel. If a S/G ignition switch was used the solenoid wouldn't be needed.

Give us a bit more info.     

[RJ Hamner 1,025]

The engine is a 47147B  The Raider is a model 1-6231 serial # 457743

I will have to get pictures soon (ran out of daylight ((the 121 is taking up most of the avail. garage so had to put it in the mini barn w/o lights)))

[Wheel-N-It 2,976]

Yep, I think we will need to see a pic to figure out what you have done LOL

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,430]

You have magneto ignition with points and condenser.

Garry

[ohiofarmer 3,367]

If the engine has points and no visible coil, the coil  that it has is under the flywheel. The coil is no longer available, because it is part of the stator assembly and the whole assembly would have to be replaced.  A lawnmower tech who has worked on and converted many of them told me that the conversion consists of changing the ignition switch, adding a coil and + feed to the coil, and putting on the proper condenser.because the one the tractor comes with is not the proper value for the [converted] machine.. Of course you should clip off the wires from the old coil. that lives under the flywheel

 If your Horse has no solenoid, you will see the big battery cable going right to the switch and another large cable coming out of the switch. That's a lot of "juice" running through a small switch area, but others on this forum have advised me that the switches are built for it. BTW, my mechanic told me that I could leave the old switch installed, but I would need to install a secondary switch to feed the coil. Just make sure that the switch is lighted so I will not forget to turn it off when shutting down the tractor

 

 I have one that i will convert this winter because there is no spark. It is very difficult to see that horse quietly sitting there all cleaned up with no place to go, but work and life get in the way. Aftermarket coils are available that have the proper resistor included.the automotive coils from car parts places are not likely to have that resistor..Here is one such supplier who has some interesting items and upgrades.http://www.kirkengines.com/

 

 Of course, there is no reason to convert your horse if it still works, but I thought I'd share the knowledge of an older repair mechanic I know in case someone has one of these machines not putting out spark

Edited September 23, 2016 by ohiofarmer

[ohiofarmer 3,367]

Thanks for clearing that up about the thing under the flywheel being a mag and not a coil. I missed post#5 as I was posting at the same time.  What I do not understand is why the engine also needs points and a condenser to amplify and time the spark? The mags I am familiar with just put out a timed spark all by themselves.  Enlighten me, please as I want to learn and understand as much as I can.

 

 Thanks in advance...

[TDF5G 2,073]

[953 nut 59,679]

2 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

Enlighten me, please

The coil under the flywheel develops current through it as a result of a moving magnetic field passing by it when the flywheel magnets move. The points open momentarily and the magnetically induced field collapses in the primary winding and a current is inductively transferred to the secondary winding of the mag. which produces your spark. It is nor a whole lot different than the battery ignition system;  just a different means of producing the magnetic field in the primary winding. On the old tractor/stationary engine mags you had points and a condenser too.

[Wheel-N-It 2,976]

6 hours ago, TDF5G said:

Like, Yeah!