Jerry77 1,218 #1 Posted September 8, 2016 I have read of all the problems removing the roll pin in the steering column and thought a SS bolt would be a better replacement....I now believe that WH got it right to start with - the outward pressure of the roll pin probably keeps the hole from deteriorating....has anyone ever tried using a 1/4 inch rod ( 1/4 inch welding rod would be perfect- very strong metal ) . Chuck it up in a hammerdrill and get to hammering....I haven't had a need to remove mine, but this might be worth a try.... Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,698 #2 Posted September 8, 2016 I use SS coiled roll pins 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abe01 61 #3 Posted September 8, 2016 3 hours ago, Jerry77 said: has anyone ever tried using a 1/4 inch rod ( 1/4 inch welding rod would be perfect- very strong metal ) . A lot I people get confused about "strong" when applied to metal, welding rods have a high tensile strength meaning it shouldn't break under stretching. However most weldin rods are prety malleable, in base terms it's easy to squish. I personally think welding rod would be a terrible material because the constant motion of the steering would beat the rod until it was useless I would think under heavy use you could get two seasons out of it..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abe01 61 #4 Posted September 8, 2016 3 hours ago, Jerry77 said: ...I now believe that WH got it right to start with - the outward pressure of the roll pin probably keeps the hole from deteriorating.... Roll pins are used in these applications because they can slightly collapse and get out of the way just enough to keep the same preasure all the time without putting more preasure in any one spot causing wear in the hole like a bolt would. Also there is a correct way and a wrong way to install them, you wand the sides of the pin in line with the directional force, as an example if you put your steering column perfectly verticly the roll pin should form an upside down horse shoe when viewed in profile......sorry 17 years as a machinist and being a machinist son sometimes makes me sound like a know it all smart aleck in certain subjects, it is not intentional! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #5 Posted September 8, 2016 15 minutes ago, Abe01 said: Roll pins are used in these applications because they can slightly collapse and get out of the way just enough to keep the same preasure all the time without putting more preasure in any one spot causing wear in the hole like a bolt would. Also there is a correct way and a wrong way to install them, you wand the sides of the pin in line with the directional force, as an example if you put your steering column perfectly verticly the roll pin should form an upside down horse shoe when viewed in profile......sorry 17 years as a machinist and being a machinist son sometimes makes me sound like a know it all smart aleck in certain subjects, it is not intentional! Not at all - I always like to learn the right vs the wrong way - appreciate it.. the main theme of my post is how to remove the old one..have seen several posts and how hard it was to get it out - I only wondered if anyone had used a hammerdrill with a 1/4 inch rod to hammer the existing pin out....wasn't suggesting to leave the rod in in place of a roll pin...I was a maintenance welder for years with Kaiser Aluminum...the rod is stiff enough to punch the pin out, but would not last long if used to replace it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abe01 61 #6 Posted September 8, 2016 I miss understood but I get it now...... I know you can't use heat, but has anyone tried freezing it? The contraction rates of the roll pin and the wheel should be different and freezing them theoreticly should break the corrosion and then you can drift it with a punch?...... Just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
