jdleach 525 #1 Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) Been mulling over getting this tractor. Have referenced it in other posts, and now think I will see the fellow today to try to strike a deal. The fact that the tractor has sat out in the weather for the last 18 months or so is troubling, and certainly hasn't done it any good. The positive, is that the sheet metal, outside the 48" deck, is still quite good. Chap said he would be willing to throw in a 42" deck that looked serviceable, but not in the best of shape. Counting the cost, I figure the following items will need replaced: Front wheel bearings (one inner is bad, will go ahead and replace all 4 of them), possible front spindle, all belts, plugs, plug wires, points and condenser, battery, seat, tail lights, possible headlights, and all fluids changed. This list will likely grow as other deficient items are discovered. Too, I will probably want to get new axle and spindle caps from Glenn Pettit (along with a koozie ), the little rubber dibbles that go over the Height-Adjust rod and Attach-Matic pins, and various sundry other things to spruce up the tractor. The above is not what has had me wavering though. Its the damn KT17 Series I in it. Reading about these motors is like reading Amityville Horror. One long litany of broken rods and busted blocks. That said, continued research on the problems of these early KT17 engines has finally yielded some useful information regarding not only the causes of premature rod failure, but also ways to help prevent it. The rod failure appears to have three main causes. 1. The first and foremost is oil starvation due to non-pressurized rod bearings. This issue could possibly be cured by doing a lot of machine work, and converting a Series I to a Series II. Not cost effective. One could also attempt to change the oil pump to get more than the minuscule 5 PSI that they put out now. As in the conversion from one series to the other, this is not an easy option. The only other way around the problem, and this crops up repeatedly in stories about these engines, is that meticulous care in maintaining oil levels and changes can lessen the chance of failure. Too, one must adhere to the advice in the Kohler manual to not operate the engine continuously at a more than a 20 degree angle, and for no longer than 5 minutes at a 30 degree angle. 2. Maintain good cooling air flow. There is some indication that many rod failures have been due to overheating, with subsequent piston seizure. The end result is the same, broken rod, hole in block. Keeping the cooling fins blown clear, along with the flywheel screen, has come up in several accounts where these engines have performed flawlessly for years. 3. Lastly, and I have just been reading about this, there appears to have been both a design, and metallurgical flaw in the early rods in the Series I engines. These flaws were remedied in later Series I engines, and in all Series II and Magnum motors. This would help to account for why many Series I motors have been great runners for many years. It is likely that these engines were not only well maintained, but had the newer rods. From what I understand, the later rods have a different cap design, and the composition of the metal is of a different, stronger alloy. It is also suggested that, at the time of overhaul and boring, one should ditch the full-skirt pistons originally installed, and put in the newer style as found on the later engines. These pistons are apparently stronger, and less apt to seize. Given what I have learned, the game plan is to get the tractor, get it running and do a very thorough maintenance on it, and use it for awhile to see how it performs. Given its age, I figure it probably has some blow-by, which means sooner or later, it will need rebuilt. When that time comes, I will make sure that all oil passages/galleries are spotless, and that the newer rods are installed. If I can get the machine today, will post photos this afternoon/evening. Lets hope I can save an all-original black hood. Edited August 21, 2016 by jdleach 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #2 Posted August 21, 2016 Sounds like you have done your home work. Looking forward to more info on the tractor and pictures. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #3 Posted August 21, 2016 First off - if you have a nice flat property with little to no hills/slopes then the negativity of the series 1 drop dramatically, then if the oil is changed regularily and the level is closely watched, and the fins kept clean (theses last 2 are only what any air cooled engine needs) the problems will fall down to what any other engines are.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #4 Posted August 21, 2016 Hooray! Can't have enough black hoods out there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdleach 525 #5 Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) OK, went and got the bloody thing. In some ways, it is worse than I thought, in others, not so much. Gonna need more parts than I planned, but so far it is little things, and I may be able to see if the PO has them lying around. Will take a few pics. and post them shortly. Am going to start another thread covering my progress in resurrecting this old Horse. Edited August 21, 2016 by jdleach 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
