oe espo 32 #1 Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) Well I had a machine shop make me a valve guide removal, installation tool. My first mistake! 2nd was to start working on it after a bad day of work. Some opinions please if I destroyed this block??? There was a crack at the top of bore I tried to blend out with did grinder. I'm very upset. I waited months for my carb to get rebuilt, now this. Thanks Edited August 3, 2016 by oe espo typo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,619 #2 Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) For the cost of a good used block,I doubt I'd trust putting money into one cracked where that one is.If you decide to replace the block Joe's Outdoor Power in Michigan is a good source for a used block.JMHO,JAinVA Edited August 3, 2016 by JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,572 #3 Posted August 3, 2016 I would not continue with that block either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #4 Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) How do you guys remove the valve guide with a puller like the manual? l was using the tool drawn up by A-1 Miller. My mistake though, should have protected the block!? I wasn't thinking. My dealer doesn't have the valve guide. Edited August 3, 2016 by oe espo typo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #5 Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) The valve guides can be removed by pressing them out of the block from the crankcase side using a valve guide removal/ driver tool. You have to shim one side of the block to compensate for the 4 degree valve angle. I just did mine this way. The exhaust guide can be very stubborn to remove, and I can't see the other removal methods working very well. For installing the new guides I heated the block to 275 degrees using an electric hot plate, put the giudes in the freezer for a couple of hours beforehand Used the same tool to install the guides, however used the swinging press ( big hammer) for installing them. I have a used block if your interested needs to be bored .020. Press set up. Valve guide remover/ installer Edited August 4, 2016 by Hossenfeffa 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #6 Posted August 3, 2016 What's a block cost Range? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #7 Posted August 3, 2016 I've seen them from $50 to $150. I would sell the one I have for $50 plus shipping Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,737 #8 Posted August 3, 2016 Considering the fact that the new guide will need to be machined to fit the valve anyway my vote would be to let the machine shop do it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,435 #9 Posted August 4, 2016 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: Considering the fact that the new guide will need to be machined to fit the valve anyway my vote would be to let the machine shop do it. That's what I do 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #10 Posted August 4, 2016 I guess I am fortunate that I kept the tools needed to do this when I sold my motorcycle repair business. Sorry, took those pictures with my phone, can't figure out how to rotate them to show correctly on the forum Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 214 #11 Posted August 4, 2016 The piston already has carbon ridge erosion so its a well worn engine. Although I would not put a ton of money into it with that dent, there is no reason you can't smooth that out more with a grinder and keep on running it. That area is pretty thick. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,619 #12 Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) The issue with the crack is how deep does it go.You may grind it down to where you don't see any remnant but it may be microscopic.Heat the block,to running temps and the head gasket won't seal no matter how much JB weld you fill it with.Get a different block.In my opinion it is not worth messing with what you have.JAinVA Edited August 5, 2016 by JAinVA 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 214 #13 Posted August 6, 2016 Look at the crack. The head gasket does not seal there. Its not a crack anyways, zoom in and look! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #14 Posted August 7, 2016 Well I got it back running yesterday. mowed a little grass, to warm the oil up and drained it last night. figured an oil change was in order due to the grinding and reaming of the valve guide. My reamer was a 5/16" straight fluted reamer didn't work so well. was worse than the old one. ended up putting in another one took it to a small mower shop. he had one that was tapered in the beginning. it of course hit the lifter and valve wouldn't go in so with my Reamer we got it done. I looked everywhere for a piloted reamer and couldn't find one, his had a light taper. anyone know where've could get one??? I'll put some fresh oil in it today and see how it goes??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #16 Posted August 7, 2016 Can I get a magnet oil drain plug? Where? probably help extend the life of a tired engine?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #17 Posted August 7, 2016 My reamers are made by K-line industries. They are long, however, so the lifters and cam have to be removed from the engine. I don't see why you could not use something like Gorilla Glue to glue a piece of magnet to your currant drain plug to make your own. I doubt it will extend the life of a tired engine, though. The items that wear the most are going to be the rings, piston, and rod. Piston and rod are both aluminum and won't be attracted to a magnet. These engines will run quite a while, even when they are half wore out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #18 Posted August 7, 2016 Now I'm loosing my patience. filled it with oil this morning. wouldn't start for nothing! gas pouring out the air cleaner. ripped carb off. small black pieces in bowl. degrading gas line?? put back together. I started but revs to almost 5 grand! any tips on governor setup? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #19 Posted August 7, 2016 The governor adjustment setup is explained in the service manual you can download for free on this sight. It is a bit too lengthy for me to type the whole thing out here, plus the manual has pictures! I would also install an in-line fuel filter. Hop your luck changes soon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oe espo 32 #20 Posted August 7, 2016 In line filter after the fuel pump?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #21 Posted August 8, 2016 Mine is installed before the pump. Not much room between pump and carb but could still be done that way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites